HOW TO: Cleaning & Lubricating Weber Gas Grill Valves


 
Ok will do.....this order is from slow bay so it will be a little bit but I will check back. Thanks again!
 
If I were going to replace those screws I would honestly buy stainless (if available) and in any case I would also use Never Seize on the threads. I know I sound like a broken record on some of this stuff but NS is your friend
 
Yep.....check the link of what I bought Larry........they are stainless with allen head......if they work I will be back to tearing into manifolds without a worry in the world. I dont mind drilling out an occasional screw but its no bueno if u dont have anything to replace it with.
 
LMichaels said:
If I were going to replace those screws I would honestly buy stainless (if available) and in any case I would also use Never Seize on the threads. I know I sound like a broken record on some of this stuff but NS is your friend
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Larry, I bought brass ones. Will they still be okay to use?
 
Sure. They should not corrode (though I would still use Never Seize) my issue with brass is most screws claiming to be brass are not. Which is why I like stainless. Also brass being very soft is easy to damage.
 
LMichaels said:
Sure. They should not corrode (though I would still use Never Seize) my issue with brass is most screws claiming to be brass are not. Which is why I like stainless. Also brass being very soft is easy to damage.
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Thanks Larry. I was going to use never seize anyway and I will go easy so as not to damage them. It is not like I will be taking them out often either.
 
Pat G said:
I tried to clean mine yesterday and those small screws won't budge. Any ideas?
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I can only say that you need to clean out the Phillips screw head thoroughly so that a good #2 Phillips driver fits deep and with no slop.
then maybe wire wheel on the bottom of the valve where the screw sticks out a bit to clean that last thread and give ‘er hell image.jpgimage.jpg
 
G Schafer said:
I can only say that you need to clean out the Phillips screw head thoroughly so that a good #2 Phillips driver fits deep and with no slop.
then maybe wire wheel on the bottom of the valve where the screw sticks out a bit to clean that last thread and give ‘er hell
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Thanks. The manifold on my grill has even smaller screws than in your picture. They are also slightly recessed in the housing. I'll have to snap a pic next time I get a chance.
 
Rob Waring said:
Thanks for this very helpful video Chris. I am rehabbing my first vintage Weber - a redhead 1100. Do you know the correct size for the screws holding the valve together? A few of mine are stripped.
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Hey Rob, I just did my valves and ended up with a stripped screw. I'm not sure if it's the screw that's bad now, or the valve cover? What did you end up doing in your case?
 
Patience! I had the small recessed ones and I sprayed one of them morning and night with PB blaster for five days before it let go. It took me years to find a 3000 redhead in my area so I was not about to take the chance of screwing it up and I was in no rush. I just bought new screws last month to replace all the old ones.
 
The guy at the auto store just gave me these two, but after reading this, neither should be used. Correct? I haven’t.

Just noticed, They are actually just the same thing, same upc same BK-1 on the back, just different packaging. Guess it has silicone in it.
 

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Looks like it could be a good product. What I liked about the black stuff is the moly in it. But, once you have it in hand (this new stuff) report back with photos and such.
 
LMichaels said:
Looks like it could be a good product. What I liked about the black stuff is the moly in it. But, once you have it in hand (this new stuff) report back with photos and such.
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Let me know what photos would be helpful.
 

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