HOW TO: Cleaning & Lubricating Weber Gas Grill Valves


 
Great video. Details are super helpful.

I have some “Permatex Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant”, would that also work?
 
DanJC said:
Great video. Details are super helpful.

I have some “Permatex Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant”, would that also work?
Click to expand...
I wouldn't use it. It is a specialty product and not a lubricant in the traditional sense. It has copper and probably nickel and molybdenum in a lubricant base to prevent materials from galling and cold welding to each other. You don't want solid metal particles gumming up your valves, which is what will happen over time as the lubricant settles out (those valves get very hot).
 
Ed Pinnell said:
I wouldn't use it. It is a specialty product and not a lubricant in the traditional sense. It has copper and probably nickel and molybdenum in a lubricant base to prevent materials from galling and cold welding to each other. You don't want solid metal particles gumming up your valves, which is what will happen over time as the lubricant settles out (those valves get very hot).
Click to expand...
Interesting! Appreciate the feedback. Gaining a lot of ancillary knowledge just rebuilding a couple grills!
 
Never Seize is NOT a lube. It is ONLY what it says it is. An anti seize compound. Used in places where there are dissimilar metals, and or high heat
 
When servicing the valves, specifically the side burner valve, are there replacement springs available? Are they the same as the springs in the valves controlling the main burners? I ask because the side burner valve stem (the spring) rusted aparted. This is on a weber gold c grill.
 
Personally, I don't think I would do it any more often than necessary. Seems to me that each time you run a risk of stripping one of those small screws as has happened to some here. So, if your knobs are turning decently, I don't think I would do anything. But, if you have sticking knobs, doing this will make a wonderful difference making your controls feel like new.
 
Bruce,
If that's the case I'm gonna starting looking for Dzus Quick Release Fasteners for use on the frames for all future restores. 😝

Jeff
 
Bruce said:
At least every third cook. Complete disassembly and repainting the frame and end caps are twice a year. Burners, flavorizer bars and cooking grates at least every month should be cleaned to a nice stainless steel shine.

Or not.
Click to expand...
Ok, good to know. As long as it's every 3rd cook then I'm covered, although I did cook 6 times straight once, so did a double cleaning afterwards.
 
Very good info. Inthis thread. I refurbed our 2013 S-210 NG two years ago. It's still going strong sitting on the deck of our beach house...30 yards from the bay in Cape May County NJ. Uncovered in Summer and Fall but covered for the winter. Valves operate flawlessly after cleaning and following the information provided here. Have an LP E-210 sitting on our deck in SE PA(uncovered for 6 yeas)...tried to service the valves because the right one was tough to turn with no detent "feel ".
After disassembling it, I threw in the towel and ordered a new manifold from Weber. $70 well spent in my situation. Added a new igniter from Amazon for $15 and a good, basic cleaning and G2G for another 6 years...at least!
 
This would be a good time to admit to one of my mistakes assuming this will help others.
I was removing the manifold valves each time and lubricating correctly as per the vid for many many grills. I came to a realization that the stem really is where most of the resistance is and a good cleaning of the valve knob stem w steel wool would free up the knob to turn freely. I started to get lazy because I didnt want to strip the valve screws because I havent been able to source a bunch of spares. So here is my big mistake.......so newbies out there dont do as I did.......
On the last 2 quick flips I did not disassemble the valves yet just sprayed wd 40 on them as I pushed them up and down. They immediately free up when u do this BUT.....in the end u get a puddle of WD 40 sitting in the bottom of the valve.....ask me how I know. Well I was working on my holy grail grill and for some reason my side burner valve wasnt moving smooth and I thought for sure I did a proper lube...as in correctly done on this grill...so I juiced this valve up with WD cause I was a lil miffed....the valve free'd up but not to my satisfaction so I opened her up only to find a puddle of WD in the valve body. WD is flammable :( ....not sure what could really happen there but if I were to light that burner I prob would have had a flare up of some kind.
Anyway...the lesson here is to not load up a valve with WD.......I think its ok to maybe hit it with the tiniest amount but no more then that. Yes it will eventually evaporate but its just not the way to make the pro's on this board proud.
I am cured and wont do it again...
 
Follow up for me.......I have not been opening up and lubing valves yet I am OCD and really want to. I still havent found a good source for the old school valve screws...havent looked very hard at all :( .....But a very quick spray of WD40 immediately free's up all valves followed by a good cleaning of all surrounding areas. I completely 100% support the correct opening and cleaning of the valves......but if u cant get those tiny little screws to turn........use a lil WD40.......just a tiny tiny bit!!!
 
Actually if you're going to go that route a tiny shot of PBLaster followed by a drop or two of ATF is even better. This is assuming the only issue your valve(s) have is the stem corroding and sticking. It may actually worsen an issue with the spool.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

 

Back
Top