HOW TO: Cleaning & Lubricating Weber Gas Grill Valves


 
I've done manifolds both ways and personally recommend at least trying the WD-40 method first to avoid stripping out the valve screws, which I have done. On the other hand, completely disassembling the valves seems to result in smoother operation because you can obviously be more thorough in cleaning and lubing. Even for removing the screws I recommend giving them all a shot of penetrant first to help loosen them up.
 
 
Yep I have lost many battles with those soft tiny screws.........I try to avoid them if I can but we all know when we just have to go in. Through my failures I have gained a few tricks and increased my success rate....plus I know I have donor manifolds with screws as a back up in a pinch. But you most definitely need to......clean the screw head....give it some pre sauce.....and use the correct screw driver with sharp edges. I find its even better if you know you are working with and old rusty screw to just use a mini straight edge screw driver the fits side to side perfectly....those do not spin out.
 
Good tips, Jim. If my wife saw my collection of screwdrivers, it would be just another thing for her to lecture me about. However, sometimes when one won’t bite on one of those screws (or other types), another will do the trick. Next time I will try your straight screw driver trick before cashing it in for the WD-40 workaround!
 
Steve Hoch said:
The worst part is when the threads on those screws strip out and they won't hold anymore.
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Bigger screw :D One thing that really helps is an old mechanics trick. Lock the valve in a vice tightly. With a quality screwdriver that actually fits the screw, and after some liberal penetrating oil (not WD40 which is not for the purpose), wait a bit, then firmly place the screwdriver into the screw head and give it (the screwdriver end) a few sharp taps with a small ball peen hammer. The taps will loosen things and allow the penetrant to do it's job. Also try turning the screwdriver while tapping. They'll usually pop right out then
 
Looking at the screws in the video, they are actually Pozidrive head screws. Those four hash marks indicate the Pozidrive, they are a a little broader bit and less chance of stripping the screw.
 
BruceToo said:
Looking at the screws in the video, they are actually Pozidrive head screws. Those four hash marks indicate the Pozidrive, they are a a little broader bit and less chance of stripping the screw.
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Good eye, nice catch! (y) I am getting ready to do this on my recently acquired Platinum C, so this is helpful info to avoid stripping the heads.
 
So now that we know it is a Pozidrive head, do we know if it’s a #1 or #2 size? I might have to go buy me a new tool…Yippee!!!
 
I'd never even heard of a posidrive. Seems like they keep finding ways to reinvent the wheel and confuse the rest of us
 
Posidriv was invented in the early 60s, as Germany's answer to Japan's JIS screw standard that came out in the late 50s. Both are superior to Phillips, as they're more resistant to cam-out and allow for higher torque
It's been years since I've wrenched on new cars or bikes, but unless they're using Torx, almost all Japanese products use JIS screws, most European products utilize Posidriv.
 
Simply put, the 4 points of a phillips screwdriver are tapered - narrow at the tip, then progressively wider toward the back of the tip.
Posidriv, aside from them having an extra 'rise' between the 4 points, have 4 points that are not tapered, the ribs of the 4 points are the same width from the front of the tip to the back of the tip.
It's possible to use a phillips head driver on a posi screw. However, it'll have a tendency to cam out, or lose grip, on the screw head as you turn the screwdriver. If it's a #2 posi screw, a #1 phillips might work better if it's not too tight.
But, a posi tip on a phillips head doesn't work very well, it cams out much easier because the non tapered, wider blades on the 4 tips doesn't mesh into a phillips screw. Again, a smaller tip might work if it's not too tight.
I have a set of Wera (German brand) screwdrivers and posi drivers that have laser tipped ends, so I can get away with using either most of the time. The lateral laser lines give the phillips tip more gripping power.

As far as spraying a stuck bolt or screw with penetrant, I have a lot of experience with this. I've used every brand under the sun, and WD40 is probably one of the weakest of the bunch when dealing with seriously frozen threads (which, obviously, is common on grills). The best I've found is Kroil. It has loosened screws that no other penetrant could. Spray it on and give it 20 mins. If still no joy, spray it again, come back in an hour, give it another shot, then wait another 20 minutes. It'll come loose. I've already sprayed and waited overnight on some parts. If overnight, it comes apart like it was never stuck to begin with.

EDIT - I'm not saying Kroil has loosened every stuck bolt/screw I've worked with. Some don't come out.
Then it's a matter of doing it old skool - cutting off the head and drilling it out. A (good, not China made) set of extractors and reverse drill bits will get it done too, but that's the no fun, last resort option.
 
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I’m back to report in after my first adventure with a Pozidrive bit and a pair of gas valve services. Let me tell you…folks, this is legit and a game changer for me! The Posidrive backed those screws out of 2 different ratty old manifolds without any thought of ever slipping or stripping. WooHoo!
 
TomRc said:
I’m back to report in after my first adventure with a Pozidrive bit and a pair of gas valve services. Let me tell you…folks, this is legit and a game changer for me! The Posidrive backed those screws out of 2 different ratty old manifolds without any thought of ever slipping or stripping. WooHoo!
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Have a link?
 
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