HOW TO: Cleaning & Lubricating Weber Gas Grill Valves


 
Trying this now, but my calves do not come out to clean.

really wanted to clean these so they will pop back out wine off, unfortunately I can’t get into this to cleans and lube it.
 

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The Sta Lube is coming up for $12 on Amazon in a 2.5 ounce tube. I'm wondering how to find it in the smaller package shown in the video, as even that size is going to be more than I'll ever use.
 
Roy-Parallax said:
Thanks T. Managed to get a small packet for just under two bucks, tax included.
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Roy, if you're going to take your valves apart be super careful removing the screws. They are super easy to strip if you aren't gentle with them. You may even want to spray some wd-40 or some other penetrant on all the screws before attempting to remove them just to help loosen them up.
 
Steve Hoch said:
Roy, if you're going to take your valves apart be super careful removing the screws. They are super easy to strip if you aren't gentle with them. You may even want to spray some wd-40 or some other penetrant on all the screws before attempting to remove them just to help loosen them up.
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Thanks Steve. They're also super small and would be easy to lose between the planks of my deck. If they go through, there's no realistic chance of retrieval. Fortunately, we have this awesome hardware store that sells zillions of fasteners from open bins. If one buys a bunch they really add up and it's better to get a box at Home Depot. But when you need just a few, it's awesome to have the option.
 
Just take the whole manifold off and do the valves on a work bench. It’s not worth losing one of the screws over 2 extra minutes to take off the manifold.
 
I was only able to get the screws out with a Dremel. I found a very worn-down cut off wheel with a small diameter and made slits across the top of each of the screws while holding the valve assembly in a vice. After that, I was able to remove them easily with a flat-blade screwdriver. I did loosen them with a punch and penetrating oil first.

After that, the valve body was slightly cosmetically buggered up and I reinstalled the same screws. Everything works.
 
They are definitely a pain to remove. I was impressed with a "Lazy Man" grill that I worked on a couple years ago. The valves on it had small bolts instead of easily stripped screws. The grill I worked on was old and not well treated, but the valves were still a breeze to open up for cleaning and lubricating. I wish Weber had used this design.

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I agree that the bolts are better, but still possible to strip out, I suppose. Easier to get replacement bolts, too. One positive feature of both designs is that you have access from the back if you get more desperate instead of simply blind holes.
 
What precautions should I take. I did this wrong. I sprayed carb cleaner into the base instead of on the qtip to clean it. It filled with solvent. I dried it but a may have not got all of it out. I was only cleaning 1 valve
 
Glad I read through this thread. I have two gassers that needed the valves cleaned. The screws were not coming out by conventional means. I did the half assed spray a little WD-40 and they are moving the way they should be now. I know it's not nearly as good as tearing them down and doing them right but they sure feel better now.
 
Oh ya.....the WD method will get them moving again. If u want to take the WD method to the next level use a brass wire brush to clean the brass valve shaft portion that is barely visible.....I spray with WD....then press the valve about twenty times turning and moving.....then clean some more with a brass brush.....then wipe away the debris....and repeat a few times. The idea is to remove as much of the crud that is causing the valve to stick in the first place. When u push the valve in when it is loaded with WD it pulls some crud out with it each time....wipe away the crud and repeat and eventually it not only works but works very well. Just dont over do the WD cause it will puddle in the bottom of your valve.
 
JimV said:
Oh ya.....the WD method will get them moving again. If u want to take the WD method to the next level use a brass wire brush to clean the brass valve shaft portion that is barely visible.....I spray with WD....then press the valve about twenty times turning and moving.....then clean some more with a brass brush.....then wipe away the debris....and repeat a few times. The idea is to remove as much of the crud that is causing the valve to stick in the first place. When u push the valve in when it is loaded with WD it pulls some crud out with it each time....wipe away the crud and repeat and eventually it not only works but works very well. Just dont over do the WD cause it will puddle in the bottom of your valve.
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I would rather do this then strip a valve and now have a bigger problem. If you can get those little valve screws out without stripping, by all means do the full treatment. But, if you start encountering problems, this looks like a great Plan B! Your extra explanation gives a lot more credibility to the use of WD when necessary. Up to now I have been skeptical, but now I see it in a better light.
 
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