HOW TO: Cleaning & Lubricating Weber Gas Grill Valves


 
Hey Larry I was gunna send out the bat signal for you..........I am not really prepared but will ask a question that I already know the answer to anyway. I only know the answer because you have already answered the question 26 times. I am working on an old 1000 Frankengrill and the manifold is the round body and the valve stems are the real tall ones. I can clearly see the previous owner used teflon tape regulator to manifold ( adapter ) ...then again tape from adapter to non business end into manifold.......the only good news is the manifold adapter or for lack of better words....the part that is screwing into the actual manifold is pipe dope not tape. From what u have taught me the only place I need to seal is threads into manifold and that should always be dope. So I should remove the teflon tape which is not even made for gas in both locations and just let the threads do what they are supposed to do.......right?
Man that was confusing! I will get you a pic tonight to back up my ramble. The only thing that is confusing me is the adapter which if not cone shaped I believe it will need to have teflon removed and dope added. Larry 101........pics to follow
 
If you're asking about the 3/8" flare fitting there should be no sealant of any kind on the threads on those. Otherwise smaller than 1/2" NPT should use the PTFE paste although 3/8" is still fine with tape. But again the sealant (tape or otherwise) must be for nat gas or LP gas
 
Ok Larry....if I still have your attention this is what I am working with. First of all is there any reason for me to think that this really old manifold with the old school super tall valve stems will have any issues? Knobs spin freely....
Next is just a follow up.....see in my pics where the previous owner used the teflon tape? But not....no tape on the part screwing into the manifold itself. 20210609_162114.jpg20210609_162122.jpg
 
And here is the manifold......this grill is a frankengrill 1000.....I can only assume that this is the correct manifold for it.

20210609_162401.jpg

20210609_162356.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Yah, there should be pipe dope on the connection to the manifold and it looks like their is tape or pipe dope on the 3/8" flare connection, but should not be any on the 3/8" flare connection.


Untitled.jpg
 
Yep...thanks Bruce thats how I understand it as well. I was going to fix it this evening but couldn't find my darn dope!!! Will get it tomorrow. What are your thoughts about the manifold?
 
I don't see a problem with the manifold. Some were round, some were square. I don't know if that was in mixed years or if they switched over at some point..
 
I am more uhhhhhI dont wanna say concerned but asking about the tall boy stems and the area where the tiny screws attach the stems........they are different then what I am used to seeing on the newer models.......I can leak test and I will......just wondering if you use these old style knob stem valve thingamabobs.....I assume you would if you were working on an old schooler.
 
This Frankengrill has been wearing me out........Just the slight difference of the deep box pushes the starter out of position and I have done all kinds of fabricating to make it right......and the friggin thing still isnt right. Why in the hell Weber made the underneath of the starter button honey comb vs solid confuses me a bit......maybe for expansion and contraction.....But since my starter is slightly misaligned it fires correctly 3 times then the button sinks into a honey comb by the 4th :( I am thinking of filling the underside of the button w high heat epoxy so the bottom of the starter will be flat and it wont matter where it strikes it will always work..............assuming the high heat epoxy can handle the heat. How hot do u think the starter button gets? 200 ish?
Sorry I am not making much sense tonight. Got my butt kicked by a red head.20210609_204523.jpg
 
Regular JB Weld is good to about 400F. Use some of that. Or get some high heat JB Weld and it is good to like 10 million or so.
 
Ha...ok....ya I am looking for 10 million or so :)
Thanks for the help as always.....good night
 
All the 1st generation with single numeral model numbers and the X000 ones use the tall stems. The next ones with B, or C model designations used shorter stems. The valves themselves are all basically the same though. I see Bruce was on the thread and took care of what I missed re the sealant as well
 
Thanks Larry.....that is what I thought about the tall stem valves. I guess all of them are at the 20yr old mark at this point. I just wanted to make sure they were safe. The manifold is in great shape....the valves just had some surface rust on them. I will be test running the grill tonight for a high heat run for at least 30 min and leak testing,
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

 

Back
Top