I will just leave this here


 
Sorry my description was wrong before. I meant the larger clevis pins. The cotter pins always came out. But had a few grills where the clevis pin was stuck. But only about 3 out of 20 grills. And two of the grills did have a bad grease fire. So I assume the heat might have caused to pins to get stuck.
And if you really have problems with the pins you can always take the frame apart. I have done this before. Lifted the upper frame with fire box and lid from the frame legs to get it in my SUV.
 
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Gone grill. :(


I spoke to the wife last night about the redhead. I just got a call from the husband, he's catching hell from his wife because he just sold the grill. Oh well. At least they called before I drove 1.5 hours.
 
I stand by my advice and is often the case, disagree with LM.
I recommended a small hammer to tap it out, not beat the hell out of it.
When I am standing in a customers driveway, I am not looking for a 2 hour
project. If the box shatters with light tapping, it wasn't worth a darn anyways.

So you're at the persons home, you break their grill and throw your hands up and say "oh well wasn't worth a darn anyway". I have seen cast aluminum shatter with a slight tap and yet I have seen it take tremendous blows and not so much as a nick. If I just drove 90 min to get a grill the last thing I would want to happen is to render it useless because I decided to use a hammer on it. A simple can of PBlaster and a small vice grip will remove the toughest pins. I have never seen one it can't. And even in the weird case it could not why risk the fire box to do something so ham fisted? Simply remove the fire box from the frame and call it a day. Then remove the pin more leisurely with a little heat. Cast aluminum is funny stuff. No rhyme or reason why it can shatter like glass or take a licking. Either way why do something that would risk it?
 
Not a grill but a bunch of cheap brand new parts I scored today. Set of porcelain coated channel formed grates #7525, set of cast iron grates #7526 and two sets of of the smoker kits #9879. All brand new. Could not resist for $40. Perfect for the last few grills I have sitting here to flip.
m9sxlUc_d.jpg
 
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Thought so too although it was a 1.5h round trip. But these items are great for grills to flip.
The seller was die hard Weber guy. He had a red head which he retired recently and went for a new Genesis. Now he was parting with all the parts from that red head.
 
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I am working on my first Genesis 1000-5000 in two years. It is a skyline. Now I know why I stick to the Silver/Gold/Platinum line. Parts, especially flavorizer bars are hard to find and expensive. Not to mention the extra work involved in rehabbing a 1000 vs a Silver B.
 
I am working on my first Genesis 1000-5000 in two years. It is a skyline. Now I know why I stick to the Silver/Gold/Platinum line. Parts, especially flavorizer bars are hard to find and expensive. Not to mention the extra work involved in rehabbing a 1000 vs a Silver B.

The "thousand" series, in my opinion, are great for personal grills, bad for flips. People who buy flips don't really care that the "thousands" are far superior grills, they are just looking to have a "Weber" for less than a "Thousand" dollars. Hence, the superiority of rehabbing the thermoset tabled Silvers and so on. If they cared about grill history or really wanted a nice "thousand" they would do it themselves. They are consumers, not true fans. I know this sounds a little cocky, but ask your flip customers what else they are considering and I am certain you will find that their other options are ChinaLess Steel Throwaways with grates like the side of a shopping cart, and not made as well I might add.

Rant over.

Slainte!

Tim
 
Well, once things settle down here, I hope to put this to the test in my market. I have always felt that there were people who would swoon over a nicely restored x000 and be willing to pay more for it. You guys have the real experience, though, so it may be that I am totally wrong. I will keep you posted!
 

 

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