I will just leave this here


 
looks close to the chocolate lid on my 1985 gen 2.

46415162335_282bdbf52c_z.jpg
[/url]100_4498 by Richard Dahl, on Flickr[/IMG]
 
Bruce said:
Yah, but I will visit my folks on the way up, have dinner and stay over at my sisters where the grill is, then maybe even stop back at the folks again on the way home. Probably a bit over $60 driving the truck, but it helps combining the trip. Plus, as a bonus, I get to tell my sister that I always have to come up to visit her and she won't come visit me. hahaha.
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wow. 440 miles for a grill. That is impressive. I think 120 miles is the most I have done so far ever on a round trip.
 
Yah. It's part of the condition. Weberitis.
Actually if you ever get the chance to work on a stainless steel frame, you might consider that long of a drive is well
 
I have never seen that much fade in a lid before. While the black lids get the haze, they don't seem to otherwise fade and especially not so evenly and all over. But, it could be and maybe it is just a different batch of coloring.
 
I would wager a lot of money it's the same color and there is no fade in the advertised grill. It's a white balance/color temperature issue. The ad pic looks like it was taken under fluorescent light, while Rich's pic looks like it was taken in shaded daylight.
 
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J Grotz said:
I would wage a lot of money it's the same color and there is no fade in the advertised grill. It's a white balance/color temperature issue. The ad pic looks like it was taken under fluorescent light, while Rich's pic looks like it was taken in shaded daylight.
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I would agree. For me it looks like the ambient light is driving the different tones.
 
Well we know Rich’s is an original “chocolate.” I am sure the one posted by Bruce is also chocolate but a newer model grill. It is possible that Weber modified the color by then (like they did with green). I think, though, the difyis lighting and photograph abgles,
 
Hopefully, I'm joining the cult, er, club

Over the past few months I've been reading all the great restoration threads and looking at the pictures. Which led me to scan CL, letgo, and offerup on a daily basis. And then I found this:

TK2l9NM.jpg


I spoke to the seller and she said she would hold it for me until I could pick it up on Saturday morning. We'll see. Keeping my fingers crossed that she still has it Saturday morning.

Assuming I actually come to own this beauty, how do I remove the lid and what tools will I need to do it?

The 1993 brochure that Chris has here on the site indicates the height is 44". I have 42" between the wheel wells of my wife's Subie. So theoretically, once the lid is off, it should fit no problem, right?

With any luck, my WSM will no longer be my only Weber.
 
J Grotz said:
how do I remove the lid and what tools will I need to do it?
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The lid is held in place with a clevis and cotter pin on each side. I would take a small hammer,
needle nose pliers and some pbblaster simply for a worst case scenario. However, you can
normally remove them simply with your fingers. Once the lid is removed, it should slide in
there just fine.
 
IF you remove those pins that hold the lid on DO NOT use a hammer on them. Disregard the advice above about bringing a hammer. One of the worst tools you can have around a Genesis :D
 
I had to use center punch and hammer a few times because a cotter pin would not move by hand or with a set of pliers.
 
Basic rule. never ever use a hammer on cast aluminum. You may have gotten lucky but old cast aluminum will shatter like glass if you look at it wrong. There are better ways to move a stuck pin
 
Dave in KC said:
I would take a small hammer, needle nose pliers and some pbblaster simply for a worst case scenario.
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I stand by my advice and is often the case, disagree with LM.
I recommended a small hammer to tap it out, not beat the hell out of it.
When I am standing in a customers driveway, I am not looking for a 2 hour
project. If the box shatters with light tapping, it wasn't worth a darn anyways.
 
Dave, Steph and LM, thank you very much for the information and advice. I was able to pull up pics of the clevis and cotter pin so I could understand what I'm dealing with. This grill has been in SoCal it's entire life; it looks like it's in great shape for its age. I'm hopeful the clevis will remove easily without too much drama.


LMichaels said:
There are better ways to move a stuck pin.
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Such as? Keep in mind I'll be disassembling in someone's yard or driveway.
 
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