Genesis Platinum C
- Thread starter Roy-Parallax
- Start date
TomRc
TVWBB Pro
Other panels are fine. I just braved the cold and walked out to the Grillyard for a double-check and confirmation.
You can use aluminum or stainless 1 inch square tube fastened with threaded inserts for cross members. The new cross members would replace the c-channel on the old floor pan. That will keep the frame square and give you a frame to attach a new floor to.
This post by Bruce shows how to work with square tube without welding. Thanks Bruce!
Thread 'HOW TO: Weber Frame Cross Member repair'
https://tvwbb.com/threads/how-to-weber-frame-cross-member-repair.77334/
Jon Tofte
TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
Yes, you can do that. I did it on my Platinum and then made a bottom out of durawood slats with aluminum z-bars. One thing to keep in mind is that the doors swing on hinge openings and the close on buttons and a magnet catcher on that bottom piece. You will need to salvage those and install them spot on in your cross-tubes. I tried but missed by just a little. My one door was stubborn and I never got the catch to work right. I didn't want to re-use the rusted one, and my improvised solutions didn't do the job. Also keep in mind that you will need high quality bits designed for stainless steel to drill those tubes.
TomRc
TVWBB Pro
Thanks for the chime in and pics on the doors. It sets the table for some other thoughts that I might be able to use. Although this is my first post / thread, I’ve been reworking Webers for more than 5 years now and presently have 26 Webers and a pet Broilmaster project in queue so tubing and metalwork are regular activities in my shop. My grill of choice for full restoration projects are the open frame side control models but I still do a fair number of customer repairs on the front control and enclosed cabinet models. I readily admit I’m struggling with which way to go with this one and certainly appreciate the feedback being provided to help me in that decision.
Jon Tofte
TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
I used aluminum Z-bar material from McMaster that I cut to length. The durawood already fit perfectly since the regular trays are the same front to back length as the bottom. I used 316 stainless fasteners to do all I could.
My goal was to make the entire thing rust-proof. @Bruce is right that you can get and use a wire rack. That is exactly what Weber used in the first generation Summit. A wire rack can rust, but enclosing it in a cabinet makes that less likely.
Samuel
TVWBB Wizard
Do you know the part number of the z bar?
Roy-Parallax
TVWBB Pro
I'm doing something similar except mine will be open cabinet, which I prefer. Picked up some stainless angle irons. Inch and a half on each side. Will use Fiberon decking (that I have leftover from a decking project) in place of the fiberwood boards. Opted for 304 fasteners because I don't live near the ocean so it should be corrosion resistant enough.
Began working on it today and am discovering how hard it is to drill through stainless. Running the drill on a low speed and sharpening my bits frequently, I make slow but steady progress. If anyone has advice on how best to drill stainless, suggestions are appreciated.
Began working on it today and am discovering how hard it is to drill through stainless. Running the drill on a low speed and sharpening my bits frequently, I make slow but steady progress. If anyone has advice on how best to drill stainless, suggestions are appreciated.
Jon Tofte
TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
You will need to measure to see which one you want. I can't remember which one I bought. Maybe @Bruce or another member here might know. McMaster is a great company. The shipping can get you, so if you need multiple items you might want to group your order.
Roy-Parallax
TVWBB Pro
Well, here's where I'm at on my rebuild. Picked up 1 1/2 inch stainless angle irons. Chose that size because it's perfect for the Fiberon boards left over from my front deck project. Spent the day drilling holes. Man, it's really tough drilling through stainless. Silver lining is I'm getting quite skilled at sharpening bits. I think the worst of it is over. I'll have to drill a few more small holes but I'll be able to use my drill press and the small holes are way easier than the big ones.
I've mounted a cross piece of stainless on the side, to which I attached the tank bumpers. They had been mounted to the steel cabinet which I've junked. Next step will be cutting the Fiberon planks to length. After careful consideration decided to go with alternating contrasting colors in a north-south pattern.
When I've got the frame secured and the decking installed, next up will be repairing the igniter, lubing the sticky valve, and then pretty much just cleaning and polishing everything. Then I'll turn toward dealing with the 1000-LX. Might do the same thing on the bottom shelf, though with steel angle irons rather than SS.
Here's the grill itself:
The tank bumper:
The angle iron, secured to the rest of the frame:
The last challenging hole (secured with a clamp because I'm going to need to remove the angle irons to drill holes for the deck planks).
And a couple of the planks I plan to cut tomorrow (if there's time before or between NFL games):
Things are coming along, slowly but surely. I'm really enjoying this.
I've mounted a cross piece of stainless on the side, to which I attached the tank bumpers. They had been mounted to the steel cabinet which I've junked. Next step will be cutting the Fiberon planks to length. After careful consideration decided to go with alternating contrasting colors in a north-south pattern.
When I've got the frame secured and the decking installed, next up will be repairing the igniter, lubing the sticky valve, and then pretty much just cleaning and polishing everything. Then I'll turn toward dealing with the 1000-LX. Might do the same thing on the bottom shelf, though with steel angle irons rather than SS.
Here's the grill itself:
The tank bumper:
The angle iron, secured to the rest of the frame:
The last challenging hole (secured with a clamp because I'm going to need to remove the angle irons to drill holes for the deck planks).
And a couple of the planks I plan to cut tomorrow (if there's time before or between NFL games):
Things are coming along, slowly but surely. I'm really enjoying this.
Jon Tofte
TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
You are going to have a beautiful grill that literally will last for years and years - the Platinum Genesis that Weber SHOULD have made! Nice work and clever adaptation. When I did mine - never really finished and sold when I left Florida - I just painted the right side steel piece silver and re-used it. Your fix is way more elegant, not to mention RUST PROOF!
Hi Roy,Well, here's where I'm at on my rebuild. Picked up 1 1/2 inch stainless angle irons. Chose that size because it's perfect for the Fiberon boards left over from my front deck project. Spent the day drilling holes. Man, it's really tough drilling through stainless. Silver lining is I'm getting quite skilled at sharpening bits. I think the worst of it is over. I'll have to drill a few more small holes but I'll be able to use my drill press and the small holes are way easier than the big ones.
I've mounted a cross piece of stainless on the side, to which I attached the tank bumpers. They had been mounted to the steel cabinet which I've junked. Next step will be cutting the Fiberon planks to length. After careful consideration decided to go with alternating contrasting colors in a north-south pattern.
When I've got the frame secured and the decking installed, next up will be repairing the igniter, lubing the sticky valve, and then pretty much just cleaning and polishing everything. Then I'll turn toward dealing with the 1000-LX. Might do the same thing on the bottom shelf, though with steel angle irons rather than SS.
Here's the grill itself:
View attachment 44432
The tank bumper:
View attachment 44436
The angle iron, secured to the rest of the frame:
View attachment 44435
The last challenging hole (secured with a clamp because I'm going to need to remove the angle irons to drill holes for the deck planks).
View attachment 44434
And a couple of the planks I plan to cut tomorrow (if there's time before or between NFL games):
View attachment 44431
Things are coming along, slowly but surely. I'm really enjoying this.
I have done a few grills with decking. I let the decking “float”. I didn’t mechanically fasten the deck boards. The bolt heads will hold them in on your grill if you cut them so they are snug inside the angle irons
Roy-Parallax
TVWBB Pro
Thanks. Will try that first. Most likely I'll secure them, though, because why not?
Roy-Parallax
TVWBB Pro
Would be easier but I don't think small holes will be that challenging. May have to sharpen the bit several times. And run it slow to avoid overheating. And keep the bit lubricated. I think it's worth the extra effort. On the other hand, if the grill ever needed to be moved a distance, would be nice to be able to easily take off the planks.
Roy-Parallax
TVWBB Pro
Thank you, Jon. Means a lot to me coming from someone as experienced and knowledgeable as you.