If you read Aaron franklins book you would remember that he talks about using prime brisket. He also recounted a time that he was forced to use choice and it was the only bad review critics gave him. He also mentions that select brisket is not going to be good no matter who cooks it. No good bbq joint is using choice.
Untrue. Categorically. Numerous "good" bbq joints use Choice, in fact I'd venture that most do. If Franklin got a bad review using Select then he didn't know what he was doing; one cooks Select differently.
I know where Paul is going with his comment, because I think we discussed something similar in another thread a while back, but it's not quite what Franklin says in his book.
Franklin has very high standards for the brisket he uses, and this has as much to do with the way the animals are raised and slaughtered as it does the marbling of the meat.
In his book on pages 103-104, he recounts a story where due to a supplier issue he's forced to "dip down and use an entirely different grade of brisket, the crappy commodity stuff that's widely available everywhere (and that most barbecue joints use)." He continues, "Trying to nurse that meat into something our customers would still rave about was almost impossible. The briskets were so incredibly lean and tough. We resorted to techniques we never do: mopping with oil, butter, onions, and garlic to add moisture, richness, and fat; wrapping them with foil (the dreaded so-called Texas crutch) to try to seal in what little juiciness they had. It felt like we were running a different restaurant for those days." And he says, "The whole time I was feeling pretty crappy about the quality of our product, not to mention the welfare of the animals the meat came from."
One would assume he's talking about Choice or Select brisket,
but Franklin does not say which he was cooking during those few days.
On page 108, when discussing grades of brisket for home use, he writes, "
All grades of brisket are used in the professional barbecue world, everyone has his or her preferred grade.
The most popular around the state of Texas is probably Choice, because it's relatively affordable
and in the hands of an able pitmaster can still produce fairly juicy brisket.
Franklin continues, "
I use Prime grade, which is by far the most expensive, but
its marbling is important to the style of brisket I'm going for, which pushes tenderness and moistness to the extreme. In many grocery stores you'll be fortunate to find Choice or Prime, but
it's worth putting in some effort to try to track one of them down. This is especially true if you're just beginning as there's a larger margin for error with fattier grades. Then again, the errors are more painful with more expensive beef."
Franklin doesn't diss Select brisket, he simply quotes the USDA description that "It's fairly tender but, because it has less marbling, it may lack some of the juiciness and flavor of the higher grades."
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I can't agree with the statement that "No good bbq joint is using choice" but it is obvious that many joints are gravitating toward higher grades of brisket. My local South Bay area joint/chain Armadillo Willys used to serve USDA Select 20 years ago and at some point upped it to USDA Choice, and then a few years ago stepped it up to USDA Prime because 1) the owner took a road trip through Texas and found that many of the best joints there were now using Prime, 2) he could lock-in a good contract price on prime brisket with Sysco, and 3) most importantly, prime brisket resulted in a better final product for his guests, a difference that he could taste. And maybe 4) it's good marketing to tell customers you're serving the highest grade of brisket available.
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Not sure how any of this brisket discussion translates into ribs, the original subject of this post.
