Weber Genesis Redhead 1100 Restoration Newbie


 
T

TedLangeJr

New member
Happy Friday Everyone,

After months of reading through all the awesome restorations threads I finally came across a Weber Genesis 1100 for free on Offerup near me in San Diego. Unfortunately, I can't make out the serial on the sticker but i can faintly make out the model # 214111. Currently I have a newer Spirit II 210 that I grabbed for $100 a few months ago. Not really that impressed with it as it's not built to last. My plan is to sell the Spirit to cover the costs to fix this up. The restored Genesis will be my daily driver along with my Smokefire.

This will be my first attempt at restoring an older Weber so I am sure I will have a bunch of questions. Of course I will continue reading through all of the great information but would appreciate any tips to make my life a little easier.

For the most part the genesis is in decent shape. The frame appears to have no major issues or rust and I haven't' decided if I am going to paint it or not. Flavorizor bars are toast and it came with CI grates which I will most likely replace with SS.

I will be ordering the following parts:
  • RCP Stainless flavorizer bars $50+
  • Stainless grates - may go with RCP's grates but they're a little more than I want to spend. Are there any decent alternatives?
  • New ignighter from amazon
Other needed parts:
  • Endcap: I appear to be missing 1 endcap. Is there a place I can pick one up?
  • Support Rod swing table & Slide bar: After further inspection the rod where the table hangs is missing and the piece that attaches to the slide is broken. Can this be easily sourced?
  • Replacement casters

Questions:
Firebox:
  • What are the best ways to clean/sand the fire box? I am thinking of borrowing a power washer to help clean it up.
  • Any suggestions on type of sand paper?
  • What paint is recommended for the outside?
Lid sides:
  • What are the best ways to clean/sand the the lid sides? I am thinking of borrowing a power washer to help clean it up.
  • Any suggestions on type of sand paper?
  • What paint is recommended for the outside?
Frame:
  • If I decide to paint the frame what is best approach for this. Leave it assembled or take it apart?
  • Is there a good way to clean it up to and avoid painting?
  • What paint is recommended for the frame?
Wood Slats:
  • From what I can tell the side and bottom wood slats are the grey stained wood. They are in decent shape. Is it worth the effort to sand them down or grab some cedar from home depot?
  • What stain and sealant is recommended?
  • What sandpaper would work?
Burners: As you can see in the pictures the burners seem to be in good shape. Is it worth replacing or just use a wire brush to clean up?

Axel: The axel has some surface rust on it. It worth trying to clean this up or just replace the axel.

Thanks everyone in advance! Have a great day!

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TedLangeJr said:
Happy Friday Everyone,

After months of reading through all the awesome restorations threads I finally came across a Weber Genesis 1100 for free on Offerup near me in San Diego. Unfortunately, I can't make out the serial on the sticker but i can faintly make out the model # 214111. Currently I have a newer Spirit II 210 that I grabbed for $100 a few months ago. Not really that impressed with it as it's not built to last. My plan is to sell the Spirit to cover the costs to fix this up. The restored Genesis will be my daily driver along with my Smokefire.

This will be my first attempt at restoring an older Weber so I am sure I will have a bunch of questions. Of course I will continue reading through all of the great information but would appreciate any tips to make my life a little easier.

For the most part the genesis is in decent shape. The frame appears to have no major issues or rust and I haven't' decided if I am going to paint it or not. Flavorizor bars are toast and it came with CI grates which I will most likely replace with SS.

I will be ordering the following parts:
  • RCP Stainless flavorizer bars $50+
  • Stainless grates - may go with RCP's grates but they're a little more than I want to spend. Are there any decent alternatives?
Click to expand...
Several on Amazon. You can spend as little as $40 for a good set of SS solid rod 7mm grates or you can move up to 8-9mm grates for about $100. Here is a $54 set that I would recommend. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077XQJ6C4/?tag=tvwb-20
The grates here are a good compromise between 7mm grates and RCPlanebuyer grates: https://bbqparts.com/genesis1100.html
TedLangeJr said:
  • New ignighter from amazon
Other needed parts:
  • Endcap: I appear to be missing 1 endcap. Is there a place I can pick one up?
Click to expand...
Do you mean those little square black things in the ends of the frame tubes? I think you can order them several places on line. If not, I can probably send you one.
TedLangeJr said:
  • Support Rod swing table & Slide bar: After further inspection the rod where the table hangs is missing and the piece that attaches to the slide is broken. Can this be easily sourced?
Click to expand...
No, they are only available used off another grill.
TedLangeJr said:
  • Replacement casters
Click to expand...
Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HYY0L8/?tag=tvwb-20
TedLangeJr said:
Questions:
Firebox:
  • What are the best ways to clean/sand the fire box? I am thinking of borrowing a power washer to help clean it up.
Click to expand...
That is what I would suggest for a keeper grill. Grinding out with an angle grinder and wire brush or having it sand blasted is good for rehab/flip grills.
TedLangeJr said:
  • Any suggestions on type of sand paper?
Click to expand...
Sandpaper for what? What do you plan to use it for?
TedLangeJr said:
  • What paint is recommended for the outside?
Click to expand...
Outside of what? I use Rustoleum 2X gloss or semi gloss black on the frame and I use Rustoelum high heat ultra black on the end caps. I use Rustoleum high heat matt black for the cook box outside.
TedLangeJr said:
Lid sides:
  • What are the best ways to clean/sand the the lid sides? I am thinking of borrowing a power washer to help clean it up.
Click to expand...
same as the cook box on the inside. If the outside are still in good shape with no peeling or bubbling paint, then just paint over it with a good high heat paint. Otherwise, you can strip them with an angle grinder and wire cup brush and then repaint. Sand paper is not what you want to use here.
TedLangeJr said:
  • Any suggestions on type of sand paper?
  • What paint is recommended for the outside?
Click to expand...
Rustoleum High Heat ultra gloss black
TedLangeJr said:
Frame:
  • If I decide to paint the frame what is best approach for this. Leave it assembled or take it apart?
Click to expand...
I almost never fully dissassemble the frame. I just take everything else off of it. Clean it up good and repaint it with Rustoleum 2x. You should probalby use High Heat ultra in the area near where the frame sits though.
TedLangeJr said:
  • Is there a good way to clean it up to and avoid painting?
Click to expand...
If it isn't in bad shape and not rust, then use some good grease cutting cleaner like Simple green and a green scrubby pad or #0000 steel wool to clean it up.
TedLangeJr said:

  • What paint is recommended for the frame?
Click to expand...
Rustoleum 2X gloss or semi gloss black except where the cook box sits you should used Rustoleum High Heat Ultra gloss black
TedLangeJr said:
Wood Slats:
  • From what I can tell the side and bottom wood slats are the grey stained wood. They are in decent shape. Is it worth the effort to sand them down or grab some cedar from home depot?
  • What stain and sealant is recommended?
  • What sandpaper would work?

I would try to reclaim the wood slats. The wood and the handle look in exceptional condition for that grill. It must be the Cali weather. Look on some of the build threads to see what others have done for refinishing them


Burners: As you can see in the pictures the burners seem to be in good shape. Is it worth replacing or just use a wire brush to clean up?
Click to expand...
They are cheap to replace but they are easily cleaned up. I use an angle grinder with a wire brush. You could use a drill with wire wheel or even just a hand wire brush. Just get them to where the holes are cleaned up. Make sure the cross over tube is in good shape, if not, just junk the whole mess and buy a new set of aftermarket. These should work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G647VC8/?tag=tvwb-20
TedLangeJr said:
Axel: The axel has some surface rust on it. It worth trying to clean this up or just replace the axel.
Click to expand...
You can put the axle in a drill and wrap some sandpaper or heavy steel wool around it and turn it on. That will clean it up. But it will rust again without some protection. You can paint it with a black Rustoelum 2x or even clear gloss.
TedLangeJr said:
Thanks everyone in advance! Have a great day!

View attachment 21575View attachment 21576View attachment 21577
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Click to expand...
 
Bruce said:
Several on Amazon. You can spend as little as $40 for a good set of SS solid rod 7mm grates or you can move up to 8-9mm grates for about $100. Here is a $54 set that I would recommend. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077XQJ6C4/?tag=tvwb-20
The grates here are a good compromise between 7mm grates and RCPlanebuyer grates: https://bbqparts.com/genesis1100.html

Do you mean those little square black things in the ends of the frame tubes? I think you can order them several places on line. If not, I can probably send you one.

No, they are only available used off another grill.

Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HYY0L8/?tag=tvwb-20

That is what I would suggest for a keeper grill. Grinding out with an angle grinder and wire brush or having it sand blasted is good for rehab/flip grills.

Sandpaper for what? What do you plan to use it for?

Outside of what? I use Rustoleum 2X gloss or semi gloss black on the frame and I use Rustoelum high heat ultra black on the end caps. I use Rustoleum high heat matt black for the cook box outside.

same as the cook box on the inside. If the outside are still in good shape with no peeling or bubbling paint, then just paint over it with a good high heat paint. Otherwise, you can strip them with an angle grinder and wire cup brush and then repaint. Sand paper is not what you want to use here.

Rustoleum High Heat ultra gloss black

I almost never fully dissassemble the frame. I just take everything else off of it. Clean it up good and repaint it with Rustoleum 2x. You should probalby use High Heat ultra in the area near where the frame sits though.

If it isn't in bad shape and not rust, then use some good grease cutting cleaner like Simple green and a green scrubby pad or #0000 steel wool to clean it up.

Rustoleum 2X gloss or semi gloss black except where the cook box sits you should used Rustoleum High Heat Ultra gloss black

They are cheap to replace but they are easily cleaned up. I use an angle grinder with a wire brush. You could use a drill with wire wheel or even just a hand wire brush. Just get them to where the holes are cleaned up. Make sure the cross over tube is in good shape, if not, just junk the whole mess and buy a new set of aftermarket. These should work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G647VC8/?tag=tvwb-20

You can put the axle in a drill and wrap some sandpaper or heavy steel wool around it and turn it on. That will clean it up. But it will rust again without some protection. You can paint it with a black Rustoelum 2x or even clear gloss.
Click to expand...
Bruce, thanks for the amazing input!! This will be very helpful. I do have a couple questions. If I don't have access to an angle grinder is there a wire brush for a drill that would work to strip the cook box?
 
I wouldn't bother with a drill and wire wheel on the cook box. I believe I had tried that in my early days of rehabbing and realized really quick that it wasn't feasible. But, if you want to spend hours and get really frustrated and tired and sore, then it probably could be done. Otherwise, drop by your local Harbor Freight and pick up an angle grinder and a 4" wire cup brush for a total of about $15 and have at it. But, my thoughts are that on keeper grill, it just isn't worth it to try to totally clean out the inside of the fire box. A half dozen cooks later and you will not be able to tell the difference. Just clean it out good, maybe hit it with a power washer and drive on. I am going to redo a Genesis SS Platinum this summer for myself and I won't do anything more than a good hand cleaning on the inside of the firebox with a putty knife. Spend your time and effort on the outside and the wood slats where it is more practical.

www.harborfreight.com

4 in. Crimped Wire Cup Brush

Amazing deals on this 4In Crimped Wire Cup Brush at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com

76_ITEM_DRILLMASTER_4-1_2__ANGLE_GRINDER_1609877901.1725.png
 
You can get casters still on Amazon. They are definitely disappearing.

AmazonSmile: Weber 6414 Caster Wheel (Includes Caster Insert): Garden & Outdoor

Before you plunk down money on grates, have you considered restoring those wonderful ORIGINAL Weber cast iron grates? It will take you some hard work with an angle grinder/cup brush - a drill just doesn't generate the rpms and power - but after getting back to raw cast iron and then seasoning them properly you will have the best cast iron grates you can ask for. I readily admit they are a lot more work, so if you would rather go stainless, then think about some of the options discussed above. "rcplanebuyer" is definitely the best, but the bbqparts.com one Ted mentioned is a very close second - also thick, real stainless and USA made.

Here is an extensive (and expensive!) review I did a year and half ago (with some updates added at the end). Maybe it will help in your consideration:

Stainless Steel Grate Throwdown Challenge Results | The Virtual Weber Bulletin Board (tvwbb.com)
 
Jon, those caster wheels are only for one wheel. The ones I linked to are for a pair at a lower price than one weber wheel.

These aftermarket grill parts are in such flux that many are no longer offered or there are a bunch of new offerings or the prices have widely fluctuated. I notice alot of the stanbroil stuff and Dcyourhome stuff has become "unavailable" recently. I am glad I stocked up when I did.
 
Bruce said:
Jon, those caster wheels are only for one wheel. The ones I linked to are for a pair at a lower price than one weber wheel.

These aftermarket grill parts are in such flux that many are no longer offered or there are a bunch of new offerings or the prices have widely fluctuated. I notice alot of the stanbroil stuff and Dcyourhome stuff has become "unavailable" recently. I am glad I stocked up when I did.
Click to expand...
Bruce,

I misread and saw your line above about not being available. Those are definitely a way better deal for most situations where you still have the inserts, just the wheels are shot.
 
Oh, yah, the inserts are an issue if they are toast. I have spares which makes me oblivious to that fact. Sometimes it is hard to advise newby rehabbers or personal grill rehabbers since I look at everything from personal experience and situation which doesn't always mimic the guy who happened on a curb alert Genesis and just wants to get it up and running. I try to put myself in their shoes when I make suggestions, but sometimes I just forget.
 
I like the cast iron grates. I would definitely try to refresh them if possible. I think they are great to cook on. If you don't have an angle grinder the cheapies from Harbor Freight are awesome, and once you have one you will find many uses for it.
 
Bruce said:
I wouldn't bother with a drill and wire wheel on the cook box. I believe I had tried that in my early days of rehabbing and realized really quick that it wasn't feasible. But, if you want to spend hours and get really frustrated and tired and sore, then it probably could be done. Otherwise, drop by your local Harbor Freight and pick up an angle grinder and a 4" wire cup brush for a total of about $15 and have at it. But, my thoughts are that on keeper grill, it just isn't worth it to try to totally clean out the inside of the fire box. A half dozen cooks later and you will not be able to tell the difference. Just clean it out good, maybe hit it with a power washer and drive on. I am going to redo a Genesis SS Platinum this summer for myself and I won't do anything more than a good hand cleaning on the inside of the firebox with a putty knife. Spend your time and effort on the outside and the wood slats where it is more practical.

www.harborfreight.com

4 in. Crimped Wire Cup Brush

Amazing deals on this 4In Crimped Wire Cup Brush at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com

View attachment 21584
Click to expand...
Thanks, Bruce! I am going to head there this afternoon to pick it up.
 
When I was at harbor freight I picked up some sand paper for the wood slats. Just for S&G I gave it a shot when I got home. It may take forever to strip the gray from the wood. Does anyone have any pointers sand down the gray stock paint?

Based on the great suggestions from Bruce I ordered replacement casters, after market burnerd (not worth the effort to clean up) and the RCP SS flavorizer bars.
 
Ted, I think that Weber actually used a stain which is difficult to remove. I would think without an orbital sander or maybe a palm sander trying to do it by hand would be tedious to say the least. There was a thread here from years ago posted by Chris A of a restore that a lady did and Chris posted her pictures in a thread and if I remember she had the gray slats sanded them and bleached them or something so she could use a spar or oil and leave them natural, maybe someone knows where that thread is.

The axle as Bruce said can be done with a drill and multiple grades of sandpaper and it must be sprayed with something or it will rust pretty quick after your done. There is a picture in my thread on the finished results actually doing one for a Performer today or tomorrow. I think the mistake I made as I finished it off to begin with was 400 wet sandpaper when I just should of used it dry left it for a few days and it started to rust immediately but just stuck it back in the drill again using 400 dry and it cleaned up in a few minutes, wiped it down with Acetone and put three coats of clear on it.

Of course as someone in my thread said you could buy a new piece stainless from MC for under 12 bucks and be done with it but I was doing this for a friend we were trying to re-use everything.

1100 For a Buddy of Mine | Page 2 | The Virtual Weber Bulletin Board (tvwbb.com)
 
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