Restore help on Genesis 1000


 
J

JoeyS

TVWBB Fan
Was able to pick up a Genesis 1000 from 97 to restore. Been reading tons of restoration post here and recently read the below to reference during the restore. If you recommended any other post as well, do let me know.

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First restoration, i'm a sucker for punishment so I'll do two at once. Gen 1000 & 2000

Been bit by the Weber bug. Worst part is a barely know how to BBQ but I'm looking forward to learning. This all started with a free Broil King I picked up in my neighbourhood as my wife was tired of bending over to BBQ on our potable Nexgrill. I stripped it down and then started researching...
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Genesis 1000 Restore | Green 1998

I just recently completed my first restoration of a Weber, specifically this 1998 Genesis 1000. It was something that I never realized that I wanted to do until I saw this thing sitting on craigslist. It was a really fun project to do, something to tinker with for a while, especially during this...
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My 1997 Genesis 1000 Restoration.

My dad had a boxy red Weber when I was a kid. He still has it. Through my desire to find "buy it for life" items for our home that I can care for, and that will take care of me, I found that the older Webers are as good as it gets. I started with a Green 1999 Spirit that I thought I would...
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From Drab to Fab - Putting together a "How-To" Restoration Guide

In an attempt to "do it right," I've been browsing the restoration threads on this forum. In doing so, I thought it'd be prudent to collect all the various bits of knowledge into one single "how-to" guide. While no single guide can be perfect for everyone or every grill, the idea is to capture...
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Genesis 1000 Redhead Restoration

Man, that is one detailed restore. Very nice. That looks like one happy turkey in it's new home.
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The grill:

00e0e_lqF76pDnP4pz_0t20CI_1200x900.jpg00n0n_fVeiWBPTUvpz_0t20CI_1200x900.jpg00606_5oQb0sxJaiKz_0t20CI_1200x900.jpg

Overall, it seems very good shape for its age. As I was taking it apart, I had issues with removing a bolt. Two question (for now.....)

I was able to remove one of the side bolts here but the other seems stuck. Tried letting it soak with WD40 overnight but no luck. Is the bolt threaded into the firebox? or is it just a push through? The other hole seems non-threaded but I may have caused that upon removing the bolt? If its just a hole, maybe I need to smack the bolt out.

IMG_7789[1].JPG


I also plan to get a quote and see if sandblasting the firebox and endcap is affordable here. In the image below, would leaving the burner screw there that holds the tube during sandblasting be an issue? It seems highly suggested to NEVER REMOVE THOSE SCREWS. As for the screw in the middle with the nut, I had to drill off the nut for it kept stripping and had no grip =/

IMG_7791[1].JPG

Buy list:

Ignitor:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BWCW390/?tag=tvwb-20

Stainless Bolts and nuts: Fastenal

Knob replacement: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Weber-Ge...-Knob-3614-78960-Replacement-3-Pack/739885315

Ignitor button replacement: Seems to be discontinued and OOS in most places. I saw on this post (https://tvwbb.com/threads/new-black...replacing-the-old-gray-ones-on-my-2000.74987/) that a black one can be used and fit? Not sure how it would look with the green hood? Thoughts?


This is it for now. I am reading up on all the post on the paint for firebox and frame. Its quite a dilemma.

Appreciate any advice or things to look out for. First restore for a hopefully lifer grill.
 
Last edited:
Leave all the bolts. Blasting will not harm them. They are much harder
metal than the aluminum box. Black button should be fine, but paint
it if you don't care for it.
Blasting can run you $25 to $100 and can be helpful if you plan to resell.
It this is a keeper, you would be much better off using the $$ to buy a
few nice steaks. It will look just as dirty after a few cooks.
 
Try a 1/4" impact on the manifold bolt that is stuck. Take it slow and easy and let the impact action do its job.
I agree with everything else Dave mentions.

When you try to take off that mounting bolt that holds the cook box to the frame, it looks like it will wind up snapping off as it is looks very corroded. Hopefully it isn't frozen in the cook box, but if it is, use the same method to remove it as the manifold bolt.
Check the frame cross member where that bolt goes through. Many times, that piece will rust out next to the cook box.

This might save you a few $$$ on the igniter?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BWCW390/?tag=tvwb-20
 
For the bolt on the 1st firebox pic, is the bolt threaded into the firebox or just sitting in the hole? I'd like to remove it and replace it with SS if possible. I wanted to wack it through but wanted to confirm if it was threaded in or not.


Dave in KC said:
Leave all the bolts. Blasting will not harm them. They are much harder
metal than the aluminum box. Black button should be fine, but paint
it if you don't care for it.
Blasting can run you $25 to $100 and can be helpful if you plan to resell.
It this is a keeper, you would be much better off using the $$ to buy a
few nice steaks. It will look just as dirty after a few cooks.
Click to expand...

Will leave the bolt for the burn holder. Thank you. If it for sure a keeper. I guess I want that "Feel good" moment with it clean (1st restore). But yes, depending on the cost if closer to $100, might go manual.

Bruce said:
Try a 1/4" impact on the manifold bolt that is stuck. Take it slow and easy and let the impact action do its job.
I agree with everything else Dave mentions.

When you try to take off that mounting bolt that holds the cook box to the frame, it looks like it will wind up snapping off as it is looks very corroded. Hopefully it isn't frozen in the cook box, but if it is, use the same method to remove it as the manifold bolt.
Check the frame cross member where that bolt goes through. Many times, that piece will rust out next to the cook box.

This might save you a few $$$ on the igniter?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BWCW390/?tag=tvwb-
Click to expand...
Thank you Bruce, I will replace the link with the one you provided (easy $5 save!). As for the bolt on the second picture, it was spinning but the nut wouldn't budge (or I'm just weak...). I ended up drilling it off and it came out.

Check the frame cross member where that bolt goes through.
Click to expand...
I read other post to check the frame, clean it up, and use rust converter on it. How does one do the inside of the frame? Or is that not really necessary?
 
I think on some cook boxes, Weber fused the manifold bolts in. I just rehabbed one where the bolts were in very good shape and were both clearly fused into the box. I had the box sand blasted and it didn't even bother the bolts. I just put it back together with the original nuts and it is in good shape. By the way, I am pretty sure they were origninally stainless steel so replacing them would do little good. Even stainless will corrode with the given heat cycles they endure. Part of that is a result of two different metals in contact with each other as well. The aluminum cook box and the stainless bolt together create a corrosive reaction.

If the frame is otherwise in good shape, I never worry about the inside of the frame. Unless you completely clean it out and treat the entire inside, you still have the same issue.
 
Yeah on some the bolts were threaded into the side of the box others not. I think they used knurled studs on some. In any case leave the screws on the left side of the box alone. They should never be bothered with. More trouble than they're worth. As for "pounding" the bolts out. Do so at your own risk. That fire box is made of cast aluminum and like cast iron that's been heated/cooled/reheated repeatedly over many years can become as brittle as glass (just ask me how I know :D )
Bottom line don't whack the fire box
 
Bruce said:
I think on some cook boxes, Weber fused the manifold bolts in. I just rehabbed one where the bolts were in very good shape and were both clearly fused into the box. I had the box sand blasted and it didn't even bother the bolts. I just put it back together with the original nuts and it is in good shape. By the way, I am pretty sure they were origninally stainless steel so replacing them would do little good. Even stainless will corrode with the given heat cycles they endure. Part of that is a result of two different metals in contact with each other as well. The aluminum cook box and the stainless bolt together create a corrosive reaction.

If the frame is otherwise in good shape, I never worry about the inside of the frame. Unless you completely clean it out and treat the entire inside, you still have the same issue.
Click to expand...
Oh didn't know they were SS. Will check with a magnet and leave it be. Thank you!

LMichaels said:
Yeah on some the bolts were threaded into the side of the box others not. I think they used knurled studs on some. In any case leave the screws on the left side of the box alone. They should never be bothered with. More trouble than they're worth. As for "pounding" the bolts out. Do so at your own risk. That fire box is made of cast aluminum and like cast iron that's been heated/cooled/reheated repeatedly over many years can become as brittle as glass (just ask me how I know :D )
Bottom line don't whack the fire box
Click to expand...

I like stories. How do you know? haha
 
Larry broke a cook box doing that. But on the otherside, I have pounded out a couple dozen and only once did I crack the cook box. I just did one yesterday in fact. Of course, if you are using a 2 lb maul, and going postal on it, you might not have good luck.

Oh, and some stainless steel is magnetic and some is not, so the magnet test might not work too well for you.
 
Only I was only using a tiny little 8oz ball peen. Actually it's a 6oz one I use to drive out lock pins on the mixers. And it didn't "crack" it shattered like glass.
 
If one of the manifold bolts came out with ease, I doubt the other one is threaded into the box. If you have a blowtorch, you could apply heat to the stuck bolt. I had a stuck firebox bolt on mine. I even drilled through the bolt and it wouldn't budge. I applied a few seconds of heat to it and it fell right out. I think I had to use a heat on a manifold bolt as well. I get wanting to have the box blasted. I had mine blasted. I know it will be covered in gunk after a few cooks, but I want all the gunk to be my gunk. Here's a link to my restoration thread:

https://tvwbb.com/threads/genesis-1000-redhead-restoration.80175/

And get some PB Blaster. It is so much stronger than WD-40.
 
J Grotz said:
If one of the manifold bolts came out with ease, I doubt the other one is threaded into the box. If you have a blowtorch, you could apply heat to the stuck bolt. I had a stuck firebox bolt on mine. I even drilled through the bolt and it wouldn't budge. I applied a few seconds of heat to it and it fell right out. I think I had to use a heat on a manifold bolt as well. I get wanting to have the box blasted. I had mine blasted. I know it will be covered in gunk after a few cooks, but I want all the gunk to be my gunk. Here's a link to my restoration thread:

https://tvwbb.com/threads/genesis-1000-redhead-restoration.80175/

And get some PB Blaster. It is so much stronger than WD-40.
Click to expand...

haha yes, I want all that gunk to be mine :ROFLMAO: I'll add PB to my pick up list for my next HD trip.
 
Patience helps as well. I put PB blaster on a screw on a manifold valve twice a day for five days before it broke loose. Didn’t want to strip the head on that tiny screw though and drilling it out was not a option.
 
LMichaels said:
Only I was only using a tiny little 8oz ball peen. Actually it's a 6oz one I use to drive out lock pins on the mixers. And it didn't "crack" it shattered like glass.
Click to expand...
Did you video that moment perhaps? Would be an epic teaching module for the newbies ;)
 
Got some time to work on the lifer grill again. Was trying to take the frame apart to clean it out and ran into some issues. Man this cross bar is a PITA to take out without a bench vise.... I had to get creative with a adjustable wrench and zip tie it and ratchet it off...

Finally got it off but what would be the best way to replace this? Or if there is a post in regards to this, do let me know.

IMG_7846.JPG
 
Here you go...

www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
www.mcmaster.com www.mcmaster.com
 
Sam Bee said:
Here you go...

www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
www.mcmaster.com www.mcmaster.com
Click to expand...
Oh that's how its in place. Thought it was welded or so. Got a bit worried since I only hand hand tools. Appreciate the link!
 
Yep, when they’re rusted out like that you kind of just have to go to town on them (I believe I used a hefty drill bit) — took me a while to break it down until it just sort of fell apart into the leg. Those replacements look great!
 
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