I am restoring this Genesis 5 ....


 
LMichaels said:
If ya think about it 1, why would you ever turn off the front burner? If you want to "smoke" something you need the front burner on as it is the natural progression/flow of heat and smoke in a Genesis (at least a good ol' REAL Genesis), and 2, it is a great safety device. I really wish more grills had them. Or something like it. I have spent many hours trying to actually figure out a way to ADD something like this to an existing grill
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Sorry as the article stated and I agree it was a solution in search of a problem. I have had these things go bad on every patio heater I have repaired. I think they are a nuisance and I just did what I do on the patio heaters and believe it is a good solution should someone want to have the button but not have to press it or re-plumb the manifold. I removed the inner valve cartridge and popped the retainer (also part that seals off the gas) off the spring and put it back together. The grill now works like every other Weber and I can put the knob back on the valve so everything is original.
See photos20210425_170725.jpg20210425_170731.jpg20210425_170744.jpg20210425_170750.jpg20210425_171007.jpg20210425_171049.jpg20210425_172720.jpg20210425_173631.jpg
 
Sounds like a great solution to me. On a side note, it looks like your back burner is a bit weak, but that could be the ambient lighting as well.
 
Bruce said:
Sounds like a great solution to me. On a side note, it looks like your back burner is a bit weak, but that could be the ambient lighting as well.
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I haven't cleaned anything up yet and I think I had the back on low. Just making sure I can get everything working. Is there a thread on what kind of wood it is, and how to refinish it? The more I dive into this grill, the parts seem to be original stuff. Tomorrow or Tuesday I will give it a decient cleaning and decide how "Bruce" I want to go on it. I did just see an ad on FB for someone that does sand blasting;-)
 
Definitely a Genesis 5 based on the L5 on the serial number sticker. Plus that other label showing "Gen 5". :)

Great solution on the FlameCheck. I will reference your fix in the article I wrote.
 
I believe it was Redwood they used back then. Otherwise, Cedar is a good substitute as it has natural resistance to rotting like Redwood.
 
Bruce said:
I believe it was Redwood they used back then. Otherwise, Cedar is a good substitute as it has natural resistance to rotting like Redwood.
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I am hopeful that the wood is in ok shape and can be refinished. I was just wondering what kind of wood it may be, and what products colors to use to refinish. I saw someone just used teak oil. I remember from my boating days the problems other people had with keeping their wood work in good shape. I was lucky and never had wood to finish on my boat.
 
I also took the rusted hardware off the glass doors and only broke one screw. They are soaking in a vinegar bath for a few days. Also can someone tell me the logic in having the flavorizer bars going through the smoke box? So if I wanted to just use this ocasionally I would have to remove all the top bars and the front 2 long bars, put this in and reassemble. Then do the same if I wanted to take it out. How about I cut off the part the bars go through and then it just sits on top of the bottom bars and it is easily removed and replaced? Any thoughts?20210426_151327.jpg20210426_154312.jpg20210426_154407.jpg
 
Bruce said:
Check under the control panel. If not there, check the very right side of the control panel.
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Bruce - Any thoughts on snipping the bottoms of the triangle so I don't have to remove the bars to put this in and out? I think if I do it will sit the same but allow easy insert and removal.
 
Joe,
That seems like a workable idea. It won't be quite as solidly anchored, but it is not like it is getting bumped and moved around anyway.

Good luck with that one. It is one of the "holy grails" for a number of people here. They always remind me of my old stereo cabinet from college days :smilekettle: !
 
Joe, I see no problem with snipping it off. I assume they added that for stability so the smoker would not tip over if you moved the grill around.
 
Really those smokers are not effective at all. More show than go. If you want it because you want to keep it looking like factory fresh.............yeah ok I get it. My advice? Dump it in the trash. Keep the little water pan that goes inside though. THAT makes an excellent wood chip holder cover with foil punch a couple holes nestle it in the Fbars on the left side over the XOver tube and you got a WINNER! Get some quality grates and you got a true grilling and cooking machine as good as any can be
 
LMichaels said:
Really those smokers are not effective at all. More show than go. If you want it because you want to keep it looking like factory fresh.............yeah ok I get it. My advice? Dump it in the trash. Keep the little water pan that goes inside though. THAT makes an excellent wood chip holder cover with foil punch a couple holes nestle it in the Fbars on the left side over the XOver tube and you got a WINNER! Get some quality grates and you got a true grilling and cooking machine as good as any can be
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I thought it would be useful as it is right over the crossover tube and so would protect it and have dedicated flame. It also looks cool. I was going to go with the original look grates https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PZFJ2LH/?tag=tvwb-20
I guess I also need to cut one of the new grates to fit the smoker box. I also noticed that the original middle burner tube was mounted vertically and had ports on both sides. On all replacement 29" tube sets the middle tube is horizontal and only one set of ports on top. I would have guessed more flames hotter grill.
 
Definitely go with the Stanbroil Solid Rod grates. But, if that is going to be a keeper grill, you might want to consider something a little heavier than 7mm.
 
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