HeaterMeter Hardware v4.2.4


 
Brandon N said:
Ralph, I know you have been using yours for Pizza cooks with the type K. What temp are you running it at these days and how does the rotodamper hold up under those conditions?
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I like to run the pit between 650-700F for pizza cooks, but I've had it over 850F and had no issue with the thermocouple or the roto damper, though I've been running a larger than stock blower for high heat cooks to push more air....
 
Mouser called me a couple times. They found me a different LED and I ended up order the socket from newark since they had it. I bought a couple extras. The lady who called actually said "hmm that's interesting I had someone else with this exact order earlier today :) "

Funny!

Neil
 
Not right now, I bought enough parts to do 25 thermocouple boards and 25 kits (the PCB, mouser and digikey orders combined).
 
Hi Bryan,

Have just built the V4.2.4 and must compliment you on the quality design, rounded software, and thorough guide! Not sure how you can get it all done - design the board, write the software, document the process, and answer forum questions, but well done! The wealth of knowledge and helpful members of this forum is also extremely impressive.

Two items to pass on though - the Mouser parts list seems to be missing JP1 (RasPi header), is my issue for not checking properly, but worth adding for the next new guy like me!

As to shutting the HeaterMeter (well LinkMeter I guess), I am new to OpenWrt, is it okay just to remove power from the HeaterMeter/RasberryPi? With the various breeds of Linux for the Pi, it needs to get the shutdown command to close all files etc., reading up on OpenWrt the command "poweroff" seems to be the one.
So I guess I am asking how to power the unit down safely, if just removing power, has any corruption or issues been noticed?

Once again, many thanks for such a great project!
Dave.
 
Dave Nichols said:
Hi Bryan,

Have just built the V4.2.4 and must compliment you on the quality design, rounded software, and thorough guide! Not sure how you can get it all done - design the board, write the software, document the process, and answer forum questions, but well done! The wealth of knowledge and helpful members of this forum is also extremely impressive.

Two items to pass on though - the Mouser parts list seems to be missing JP1 (RasPi header), is my issue for not checking properly, but worth adding for the next new guy like me!

As to shutting the HeaterMeter (well LinkMeter I guess), I am new to OpenWrt, is it okay just to remove power from the HeaterMeter/RasberryPi? With the various breeds of Linux for the Pi, it needs to get the shutdown command to close all files etc., reading up on OpenWrt the command "poweroff" seems to be the one.
So I guess I am asking how to power the unit down safely, if just removing power, has any corruption or issues been noticed?

Once again, many thanks for such a great project!
Dave.
Click to expand...

The header is part of the digikey parts, I believe. There is no problems with removing the power supply after using the heatermeter.
 
Just found the answer - is all in the Wiki, but just so much info!!
What about the unchecked filesystem warning?
There's no 'shutdown' button on the device, so shutting down is a matter of pulling the plug. This means the filesystems are not cleanly unmounted, which the ext4 module will complain about. The partitions are not written to in the normal course of LinkMeter operation so not properly unmounting them shouldn't cause any issues. The filesystem is written:
•On OpenWrt configuration change
•On LinkMeter database "stash"
•On bootup, during the configuration backup process
Click to expand...
 
Bryan,
I was looking at the Mouser order as I get ready to order parts so I can make one. The parts list shows part number 688-SKQUAA (Multi-Directional Switches 4-direction 10mm 160gf snap-in) as being End of Life Cycle. Appears they still have some but was wondering if there is a replacement part to order?




Dave
 
It was mentioned in the development thread, but there is no replacement. The manufacturer's recommended replacement is a surface mount part, so get em while you can! The next version of HeaterMeter will either use the surface mount (which I'd rather not) or go back to 4 individual buttons (which takes more board space too).
 
Bryan Mayland said:
It was mentioned in the development thread, but there is no replacement. The manufacturer's recommended replacement is a surface mount part, so get em while you can! The next version of HeaterMeter will either use the surface mount (which I'd rather not) or go back to 4 individual buttons (which takes more board space too).
Click to expand...

I have been hunting for replacements and surprisingly there is not nothing like it even close. I also looked at blackberry trackballs, thumb joysticks, ect.... everything else is either to big or complicated
 
I just finished my board. Can anyone tell me where (TR1) the onboard 'ambient' temperature sensor goes on the board. I never saw it and have been through the instructions several times. Thanks.
 
Bryan does mention it in the wiki under "thermistor".
I am planning to put it inside a 2.5mm plug, so that it can plug into the HM, with the thermistor then outside unaffected by the HM. Can plug it in only when needed!
 
John Bostwick said:
I found another source for the button at 2.95 a button though
Click to expand...
That's the same button we are using, except with center push. It is also end of life so it will disappear around the same time. The button was just end of lifed back in July so I figure there's several months still before they stop making it, then a few months for supplies to dry up.
 
I just finished soldering all components, went to fire it up and just a blue screen. I do not have my leds in as I am still waiting on a case. I went back and cleaned all my solder points up and still nothing. I plugged it in with and without the ras pi and still nothing. I put the software on the sd card. Plugged in with thermoster probe and meat probes and without. Anybody got any suggestions. No blower attached. It should still give me something on the display, right?
 
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