HeaterMeter Hardware v4.2.4


 
Just finished my build, plugged in with USB power, everything came to life per the instructions! Set up my wireless, rebooted, all systems go. Took a deep breath and plugged in the 12V power supply and probes (making sure they weren't in to far) and once again flawless startup and temp monitoring working well on all jacks. Android app up and running too! (Why doesn't my wife think this is as exciting as I do.... not sure on that one!)

I started this to ask what the LED's are telling me but found the settings in the configuration: red 100% fan, green > 0 fan, yellow: lid mode. My Question: Can someone point me to the instructions for installing the thermistor to the board? Thanks! All the discussion and excellent instructions made this project very straightforward!
 
I think maybe your wife isn't as excited about this like you wouldn't be as excited about the couple pairs of shoes the money could have bought.... lol
On the thermistor, I guess Bryan didn't put that part into the HMv4.2.4 build guide (yet), this is at least the second time I've seen this question asked so I guess it would be a good idea to add that info so we don't see that same question over and over again....
Here is a link to a post about the HMv4.0, in the second image you can (kinda) see the thermistor wired across the top probe jack (the green wire partially obscures the body of the thermistor, but you can see where the legs go), it needs to go between the ground and the third leg on that probe jack.
 
Hah. You quoted her exactly in regards to buying shoes. Too funny. Thanks for the info, I searched and searched for that answer as I hate to ask questions on things that are already out there!
 
This latest HeaterMeter rocks! I've built at least one of every version so far, passing older ones on to friends to justify having the greatest for myself. Bryan, I can't find the words to convey how great your contribution to this community really is. Thank you!
 
Just bought 100 switches from Mouser, I don't know why. Maybe because it's being discontinued? 0.76 cents a piece right now. I had to.
 
Would anyone here be willing to trade three of the PCC-SMP-K connectors for two ATMEGA328P-PU IC's? I am trying to get away from paying $6 shipping for $6 worth of parts at Newark. I wish they offered USPS First Class shipping for small items.
 
Just finished my build last weekend and I'm not getting it to come up at all on the 5V through the Pi. I checked my solder and cleaned up what I saw and reviewed the assembly instructions again but the Pi partially boots and never loads the Linkmeter. I pulled out the multimeter to look around while on the USB power and all the 3.3 stuff and GNDs look solid. The 5v stuff is there and all shows the value, but it's 4.8v, not 5. After reading the assembly instructions, I've been scared to plug up the 12v to test other values. I'll admit it's not the cleanest solder job (OK, I'll own up that it's been a long time since my heathkit projects and I was just bad at the start and made some real rookie mistakes along the way - just hopefully they weren't buy the parts and start over kind of rookie moves).

The Pi boot looks like this:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6uNL9lOXoZbYVdUSkNPdV9pVzg/view?usp=sharing

Here's one side of my board:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6uNL9lOXoZbeFkzUV94NXdoWU0/view?usp=sharing

And here's the other:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6uNL9lOXoZbSEhuZjVaSFVTcjA/view?usp=sharing

Hopefully the picture links work.

Any clues would be much appreciated...
 
check the diode next to the cat5 jack, can't tell by pic if the band is toward the edge same as the other diode.
 
DSC_0248-1.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
 
That diode has very faint markings, so I'm not surprised that it didn't show well in the pictures. The band is closest to the edge of the board.
 
Bryan Mayland said:
I don't see any problem, see the FAQThe console on my RaspberryPi hangs after booting.

And 4.8V is perfectly ok when being powered over USB power. Usually, those 5V power adapters aren't that great at 5V regulation so they sag under the load of the Pi.

If the LCD never comes to life, that's something else but you're definitely getting a good Pi boot there.
Click to expand...

Looked at that and I defiantly get to those points described in the FAQ.
The LCD does come to life but it's all black blocks (not "-No Pit Probe-" as described in the SW bring up paragraph). Also when power is applied LED 2 and 3 flash on for a sec (but not LED 1).

I guess it's time to apply the 12v supply - I was just being cautious given your warnings about frying components.
 
I wouldn't apply 12V, there's definitely something wrong that adding more voltage won't solve. You can start by plugging in a keyboard before booting then pressing enter and typing `avrupdate` and see if it even sees your AVR. Then you can tell if it is just an LCD thing or a microcontroller thing.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

 

Back
Top