Geoff Parris
New member
ah, thank you. I really love OLED displays! Oh well 
HeaterMeter Hardware v4.2.4
- Thread starter Bryan Mayland
- Start date
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
It would work, but the pins are on the wrong side of the display so it would be upside down and backwards. The interface is compatible but you'd need a ribbon cable or some other mechanism to attach it. HeaterMeter uses the 4-bit parallel interface.
John Bostwick
TVWBB Wizard
Hmmm I like the look of the displays, You would think they would have one with the same pins setup as the regular displays to make it easier to use But, every one I have looked at all have one connection on the wrong side.
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
For some reason, the pins across the top is the standard way to make them. I'm not sure how you're supposed to connect them in a commercial project where they don't take a tremendous amount of space. I can't have any components under the LCD, because if something's wrong and you need to get at them, removing the LCD is a real pain and something a novice would have a lot of trouble with.
I really can't fathom why that's the preferred mounting direction.
I really can't fathom why that's the preferred mounting direction.
Steve_M
TVWBB Guru
I realize you're trying to keep the HM footprint as small as possible, but since the LCD is one of the more pricier parts in the project, maybe it should be be using a removable pin header design so that it can be removed/swapped/tested with ease from the main HM board.
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
But... why would you need to? The position it is in now does not block access to any components so testing (and possible de-soldering of parts) is all possible with the LCD in place. I don't see any practical need to make it removable.
Steve_M
TVWBB Guru
As much as I like the 4.2 design, the LCD mounting procedure just rubs me the wrong way. I understand why it was done, I just think it could have been done more cleanly with 90 degree headers/sockets on both the board and the display. That being said, I'll still probably end up building one to go along with my 4.0 and 4.1
RalphTrimble
TVWBB Diamond Member
As much as I like the 4.2 design, the LCD mounting procedure just rubs me the wrong way. I understand why it was done, I just think it could have been done more cleanly with 90 degree headers/sockets on both the board and the display. That being said, I'll still probably end up building one to go along with my 4.0 and 4.1
I have to disagree, I like the tight compact unit that is formed when the display is mounted so closely to the HM board, using any right angle header(s) and/or connectors would require more space and would make the resulting unit larger. That said, you have the option to put headers on your board(s) and use a ribbon or whatever to connect your display if you want, so I don't see an issue....
Steve_M
TVWBB Guru
To me, the fact that the LCD prep/install has it's own wiki page signals that it's an overly complicated process.
Jason Albracht
New member
I am building my first Heater Meter. I am done with the soldering of the main board components but have not attempted the thermocouple surface mount components yet. I have them, but can not find a picture showing what components go where. I have searched most of the forums and Bryan's wiki page but can not find an easy illustration and directions on this. Can anyone help me in this area? No problems yet as I am a noobie to soldering. Thanks!
RalphTrimble
TVWBB Diamond Member
Perhaps the explanation is more complicated than the actual work.
I just solder a 6-pin header on both ends of the LCD connector, remove the plastic that holds the pins together, then mate with the HM board and solder. I've done two so far and it is very easy.
RalphTrimble
TVWBB Diamond Member
First of all, it was probably a bad move to do the through hole components first, because soldering the SMD components is a bit tricky and is best done with the board sitting flat on a table, with all the other stuff soldered to the board already it's gonna be wobbly at best...
I think Bryan did a special wiki about the SMD soldering, but I am not sure, haven't used it myself. If you look at the board on the bottom side (opposite side where the rest of the component labels are found) you will see component values for all the SMD components. There is a dot on the SMD IC chip diagram to designate pin 1. Depending on your eyesight you may need a magnifying lense to see this clearly. I highly recomend you get a magnifying visor (Harbor Freight has one for like $3 bucks) that you can wear so your hands remain free to work...
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Jason Albracht
New member
Found a diagram. Yeah, I wish I would have known to start with the SMD soldering. Makes sense now. Still going to try. If I need to desolder the components and run the regular Probe, I will, but I would like to take advantage of the thermocouple for longevity. I have a visor which definitely helps. Thanks for the reply.
https://d3s5r33r268y59.cloudfront.n...5Z-IMG_0180-001.JPG.855x570_q85_pad_rcrop.jpg
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John Bostwick
TVWBB Wizard
I did ask Bryan to post a picture with the parts in the correct positions for the smd soldering. The chip is easy, as it has, as Ralph stated a dot on pin 1 and if you have the hm in front of you with the LCD away from you the dot will also be away from you.
The two 10k resistors go next to the mounting holes for the thermocouple connector that are mark as 10k.
The 1k is another resistor and is black in color.
The two 1n smd parts the only other parts that you have two of and they go to the left and right of the amp.
The 10n is the, I believe the part that is marked .01
Then the last one on the bottom would be .1
Further to this ^, it was very intuitive to do the thermocouple components (for me, at least). If you need pics, I posted some, also the Thermocouple testing procedure provided what I needed for assembly. The only thing that matters as far as orientation is the chip. Resistors were marked on the PCB the same as they are on the Mouser packaging.
SMD technique? Probably a few different methods that people take. I put solder on each pad then held each component with tweezers and quickly tacked them on the pad. Only takes a split second for the solder to melt with such small items.
Saw some other techniques online where dude didn't care about shorts.. went to town on the solder and used a braid to clean it up. Pretty neat, actually.
https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/category/2
Doing the SMD brought back fond memories of chipping playstations.. sigh
SMD technique? Probably a few different methods that people take. I put solder on each pad then held each component with tweezers and quickly tacked them on the pad. Only takes a split second for the solder to melt with such small items.
Saw some other techniques online where dude didn't care about shorts.. went to town on the solder and used a braid to clean it up. Pretty neat, actually.
https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/category/2
Doing the SMD brought back fond memories of chipping playstations.. sigh
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John Bostwick
TVWBB Wizard
You can use thermoworks instead of Mavericks.
RalphTrimble
TVWBB Diamond Member
The HM board has only 1 thermocouple amp which can only support one thermocouple (as the pit probe). If you want additional thermocouples you would have to make your own amp circuit(s), one per probe...
IMHO you should only need one thermocouple, cause high heat is the only thing a regular probe can't do, and when you are cooking high heat you can not have ANY probes in the grill 'cause the leads on the probes (even the thermocouple) can't stand those high temps.
I do understand your frustration with failing Maverick probes, they take on water and die WAY too easily... but as John B suggested, try the ThermoWorks Pro thermistor probes, they are MUCH more resilient and water resistant than the Maverick probes, I have have had absolutely ZERO problems with their probes. I have used them on HMv4.0, v4.1, v4.2.3 and v4.2.4 and they work better for me than the Maverick probes (though others have said they have had problems, I have not, on any of my boards). I've had a Thermoworks Pro probe and my ThermoWorks Thermocouple out in the weather all summer long and they are both still working perfectly. If I had a maverick out there with them I am certain it would have died many deaths so far in the weather this year...
IMHO you should only need one thermocouple, cause high heat is the only thing a regular probe can't do, and when you are cooking high heat you can not have ANY probes in the grill 'cause the leads on the probes (even the thermocouple) can't stand those high temps.
I do understand your frustration with failing Maverick probes, they take on water and die WAY too easily... but as John B suggested, try the ThermoWorks Pro thermistor probes, they are MUCH more resilient and water resistant than the Maverick probes, I have have had absolutely ZERO problems with their probes. I have used them on HMv4.0, v4.1, v4.2.3 and v4.2.4 and they work better for me than the Maverick probes (though others have said they have had problems, I have not, on any of my boards). I've had a Thermoworks Pro probe and my ThermoWorks Thermocouple out in the weather all summer long and they are both still working perfectly. If I had a maverick out there with them I am certain it would have died many deaths so far in the weather this year...
Jason Albracht
New member
Which ThermoWorks Pro thermistor probe and thermocouple models do you use. I am confused on which one to get. Also, do you have to buy from their website or does anyone else sell them at a lower price? Thank you!
RalphTrimble
TVWBB Diamond Member
For High Temp cooking I use the Thermoworks Model: 113-420/425 thermocouple, I got the 1/16" version. At first I wasn't sure if I would like the 7" long probe, but since using it I have really grown to like it. It's long enough that I can insert it at grill level on my Fauxmado and it pokes into the cooking area nicely for high heat searing (like steak), and it's thin enough so the gasket seals well around it and it doesn't interfere with the lid closing. (Probe is inside grill, cable is out). It also works well poked into the top vent as a dome temp sensor. It was kinda pricey, but it is completely sealed from moisture and steam and it can handle over 2,000F! I was burning up $15 Maverick probes right and left on high heat pizza cooks, this has taken the weather and high temps without a hitch all summer so I know I am money ahead compared to how it was going with the Mavericks....
As for thermistor probes, the ones Bryan has the preset for are the Thermoworks Pro series probes. These probes have a bulb (of some kind of plastic?) around the junction where the wire enters the probe and are MUCH more resistant to moisture than the Maverick probes. The drawbacks are that the "High Heat" version only handles up to 572F (not over 700F as the Maverick claims), the cables are supposed to be good up to 700F but the cables are only 47" (which I like, longer cables tangle more). The Needle Probe version has a completely sealed silicone cable (that can be completely submerged), the cable is good up to 500F.
I used to use a Maverick High Heat probe for the pit probe and the Thermoworks for the food probes, cause the Maverick would live through higher heat steak cooks, though they often died on Pizza cooks. Now I use the Thermocouple pit probe instead, and have also used a rather generic Type K thermocouple I got from Amazon with great results as well. Speaking of Amazon, they also sell the ThermoWorks probes but I think direct from Thermoworks is about the cheapest way to go...
As for thermistor probes, the ones Bryan has the preset for are the Thermoworks Pro series probes. These probes have a bulb (of some kind of plastic?) around the junction where the wire enters the probe and are MUCH more resistant to moisture than the Maverick probes. The drawbacks are that the "High Heat" version only handles up to 572F (not over 700F as the Maverick claims), the cables are supposed to be good up to 700F but the cables are only 47" (which I like, longer cables tangle more). The Needle Probe version has a completely sealed silicone cable (that can be completely submerged), the cable is good up to 500F.
I used to use a Maverick High Heat probe for the pit probe and the Thermoworks for the food probes, cause the Maverick would live through higher heat steak cooks, though they often died on Pizza cooks. Now I use the Thermocouple pit probe instead, and have also used a rather generic Type K thermocouple I got from Amazon with great results as well. Speaking of Amazon, they also sell the ThermoWorks probes but I think direct from Thermoworks is about the cheapest way to go...