HeaterMeter Hardware v4.2.4


 
well. so i'll try this: "3.5 mm 100 µF 35 V 20 % (Ø x L) 8 mm x 11.5 mm Nichicon UPW1V101MPD"
it's pin distance is 3.5 instead of 2mm, and it's diameter is 8mm instead of 5mm. i'll squeeze it in :). it's the only PW serie's cap that i can source locally that a close fit.
just found out that i forgot to order the 2.5mm audio jack sockets as well *lol*
 
haha I do that all the time, forgetting one part in the big order. One time it was thermocouple amps and so I just had to place a second order. Mouser shipped them in what was roughly the size of a postcard (including thickness-wise) and it got lost on the way.
 
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Bryan Mayland said:
haha I do that all the time, forgetting one part in the big order. One time it was thermocouple amps and so I just had to place a second order. Mouser shipped them in what was roughly the size of a postcard and it got lost on the way.
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When I get my amp from vitical, arrow, they come in a liitle tube that a foot long, for something like 10 amps and then they must send the biggest box they can find, lol
 
Johannes S said:
mouser did have all parts available but the 10v 100u caps. are they anyhow special? i would just put some 20v 100u ones (same size) in.
just want to be sure that there will be no problems as the nichicons are high ripple, low impedance ones. i don't know if this selection was done on purpose (or maybe just because the designer had them lying around *ggg*)
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I went with these ones:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=UHE1A101MDDvirtualkey64700000virtualkey647-UHE1A101MDD

Here is the project I ordered, it includes the thermistor, jacks, and 26 position header. I already had the blower so I was able to get everything else from Mouser. Well except the 4 way switch, I found those at rs online here in Australia shipped free.
http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=bd8a253d53
 
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mouser charged me €20 for handling and shipping. parts were €35, and all including tax was €65. and that was w/o the audio jacks and w/o the caps and with the wrong 4-way switch.
i HATE when that happens. now that i read the faq/hardware page again and again it's clear that this was happening. for me it would make sense to add the AUDIO JACKS to the mouser list. in the worst case you have 4 when you need only 3.
here is my (quite expensive) source for the 4-way switch: http://www.ebay.de/itm/111286104703?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 
I have been reading these forums for a few weeks now and love seeing the time, energy and effort being put into this project. I have to applaud everyone who has had a hand in this project because even with the issues and concerns brought up in these threads I have full confidence in the end product you all have put together. Through all my reading I have not seen any information as to when a thermocouple would be required, I could very well have missed it in all honesty. I would assume the only time that it would be required would be for high heat cooking.

I am really excited about building my first HM and this would give me the ability to play around with my rPi as it has been collecting dust since it is no loner being used as a media server.
 
The thermocouple is not "required" really, it is an option. You are right, the main reason would be for high heat cooking, so you don't melt the standard probes if you close the lid and your temp blooms above the standard probe limts of ~500F or ~700F. Another reason would be durability. Thermocouples are really durable, the one I have can handle over 2000F and is completely moisture and steam proof. I have had it outside in the weather for about a year now and it's still going strong, had it over 900F, no problem! I would have gone through a half dozen or more standard probes in the past year if I had done the same.
 
TC

Which thermocouple are you using Ralph? I have a couple, but like to try them all. I have a washer type that is a little too quick reacting and not weatherproof.

Charles
 
I have several as well, but the one I was referring to is the Thermoworks "HIGH TEMP INDUSTRIAL PROBE Model: 113-420/425". I choose the one with the smaller 1/16" needle diameter. It's pricey but was worth it for me. Being water and steam proof and having such a high temp rating it is very durable, the only thing I dont like about it is the cable is not very heat resistant so it needs to stay out of the grill. That said, the needle is so thin I can insert it at grill level into my kamado right up to the end and close the lid on it and it doesn't interfere with the seal at all. Oh, and the probe is bendable and has threads to permanently mount it through your hood if you are into that. I didnt do that because I like to insert it at grill grate level for searing and low and slow cooks but run it in the hood (through the top vent) for cooks with the pizza stone.
 
I use the washer probe one in my grill and it's been stuck in there (with the cord dangling out in the elements half the time) for close to 2 years now and it still works great. I have it attached to the original dial thermometer stem so maybe that slows the response a little. I just bought 2 alligator clips style from auberins.com though for my dad's grill, because they are more convenient to clip on.
 
That's exactly where I have mine installed. I just find that the servo seems to be doing a bit of work because the temp fluctuates up and down a bit. Never noticed it until I moved to a thermocouple setup. I have previously had some noise issues since I am stationed in England and they use GFCI type setup for the whole house. I am currently in Iraq and just build a new heatermeter with the newest firmware that allows me to enable the filter, so I will check that when I get back home.
 
Just got my kit yesterday and just got around bulding it today. Not going to lie felt like a kid in a candy store digging through all the components!

Got it built and now I have a few questions. I am using an old Linksys router power supply to power the HM rated for 12v @ 1A. I do not have my rPi connected since I left it at work last week. When I plug it in nothing comes on the screen but when I adjust the contrast I can get the LCD blocks to show up. Do I need to have my rPi connected for this unit to work? I have already checked the test points and am seeing the correct voltages.

One concern I do have is my LCD does look sligtly different from the pics on the assembly guide and the ones listed in this thread. Almost looks as if my LCD is mounted 180 degrees off. There is a white that sticks out of the left of my LCD but in many other pics on this thread it shows coming out of the right side of the LCD. Not sure if that made sense or not. i tried posting a pic but couldn't figure out how to do it on this forum.

EDIT: The part number for the display I have is NHD-0216K1Z-FL-YBW but on the listing for the mouser project it is NHD-0216K1Z-FSA-GBW-L. Are these compatible screens or could this be my issue?
 
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A new ATMega is blank and needs to be programmed. When the rPi boots the HM system and sees a blank ATMega it will flash the firmware to it and THEN the blocks will go away from your LCD. So, unless you have an ATMega that has been previously programmed you will need the rPi connected (at least briefly) before the heater meter will come to life...
 
I feel so much better now! I thought I completely screwed something up so I went back over every component and test point a dozen times. Thanks Ralph.

I took your advice about the Thermoworks probe hopefully I will be able to get this thing tested and working for next weekend.
 
Yeah the backlight guide (the white part) is on the other side on the YellowGreen LCD versus some of the other pictures. You've got it mounted fine. The difference in the part numbers is just the color.

And finally, as Ralph said, the Pi has attached before it will come to life for the first time. Everything sounds good!
 
i'm trying to find supply for the ad8495. there are two versions. armz and crmz. can't find the difference between the two. can i buy any of the two?
thanks
 
You can use either. The ARMZ is less accurate than the CRMZ. A = 3 degrees C max, C = 1 degree C max. The gain error is similarly reduced.
 
Thanks. So 3C max is for 1200C (max capable k-type) or is it at cooking temperature of 120C? Which would make decimal values shown on the webpage senseless?! It does make a big difference if you cook your meat to 89C or 93C (at least imho).
Or did i misunderstand your reply?
 
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