HeaterMeter Hardware v4.2.4


 
Yah, seems like ordering the kit with the rPi Model B is a no brainer... IMHO it's be best rPi to use with the Heater Meter and at $35 with bundled/included shipping that's a great deal...

I think the HMv4.2 board with the rPi Model B is a home run, best HM build to date and seems like it will remain that way for quite a while into the future from reading your recent post about HMv5 development.

My rPi A+ has been ok, didn't have the problem with the Edimax dongle like other are reporting. I am not very fond of the MicroSD card that is used on the A+ and B+, had problems with MicroSD memory cards that I never had with full size SD cards, and only having one USB port on the A+ could be a PITA...

I think Model B is the way to go while you can get 'em... with stock dwindling and prices rising and not really knowing if another company is gonna send you a B+ when you order a B and expect that you'd be happy... which wont work with the HMv4.2.... Seems ordering the bundle from you for that nice price and KNOWING you will get a Model B that will mate with the HM and has the best proven track record with the Heater Meter would be an easy decision...
 
Even on Kijiji, the cheapest I've found the model b is around $50CAD. Definitely a good deal if you are missing the raspberry and wanting to build the kit.
 
JohnBerry said:
Hi Peter,

I have an RPI, I just bought a damaged PCB and a good PCB. Now I am following in your footsteps. I see ALPS SKQUAAA010 has been OOS at Mouser for a few weeks now. They say "Possible Replacement 688-SKRHAAE010". I have no clue if that is a good replacement or not. Where did you find the ALPS SKQUAAA010?
TIA
John
Click to expand...

There are links in the wiki to another place that has it, or you can just use the MouserAlt surface mount version which is giant and easy to install over the holes.
Click to expand...

Thanks Brian, I found the one on Mouser in your links (TACTILE-4). I found the Dip28 connector was OOS. I found something that I hope to be compatible on Amazon.

I got tired of hemming and hawing over all this stuff. I placed orders to get everything I need from a combination of Mouser, Digikey and Amazon. I hope I got everything and they are compatible!
 
First of all thanks for such a great idea/project...

Now if i could add something for a this list.....

More probes :) Just finished by 85 gallon build and i know i could use some more probes for different meats I'm smoking :)

Thanks again

A
 
I have been searching the wiki, etc., for information about the placement and function of the LEDs. I followed the instructions when I soldered them to my HM PCB, but I think I have seen pictures of HMs in cases, with different LED arrangements. So to end my search process, i'll just ask:

If I am looking at the HM in its case, the LEDs are to the left of the LCD. What is the proper top-down order?

What are the functions of each LED?

Thanks
 
Yup each LED can change function by setting what the trigger is on the configuration page, but the configuration page's LED colors are fixed. If you want them to match the configuration UI it should be (top to bottom) Green, Yellow, Red. Reverse traffic light notation!
 
Lol, i never realized that until you said the LEDs are in reverse of a traffic light. I can never remember the order when I'm soldering a board, lol. Now, i can.
 
Also, recommend you wait to soldering them in until you have the case. It's easier to pop in the LED's, flip the board into the case, push them flush against case holes, and solder then.
 
I must have guessed right - "reverse traffic light" is what I have. Bryan's instructions helped me to wait on soldering the LEDs until I had a case. Great advice.

My first cook went very well. My UDS temp was very stable. I already know what I want to do differently next time for improved air flow consistency. I had my blower set to "On at Max Only". Since the RD could not supply enough air to maintain 225 deg, the stock blower would come on (at 75% max), then shut off when the damper started to back off. Next time I will let the blower run at the same % output as the damper.

While watching the HM and RDTC do its thing, I wanted to zoom-in on the graph to see the behavior better. What scaling is possible?

I think I read the wiki pages for the UI and the HM operation. Is there one document that describes all of the functions?
 
Which functions are you looking for? There's just one wiki page for the config page, one for the heatemeter home UI, and one that describes the function of the unit itself. If something isn't clear I can expand it.

You can scale the loaded graph information with the drop down at the bottom of the page, and you can drag and select on the lower graph to zoom in on it (although you need to drag and release between updates, because an update resets the drag). If your drag includes all the way to the right side of the graph, then new points will be included in the selection.
 
Thanks Bryan. I was wanting to change the vertical axis scale - to show temperature cycles better. I see how I can change the time base with the drop-down.

I think next time I will spend time going through your UI document and trying everything. Practice, practice.

If my laptop is running IE9, does that mean I can't view the PID outputs?

Also, on the Output bar, I see a number of things:


  • The label shows %. That is the current output - regardless of the max blower speed set in the config, right? So if output is 80%, and max blower is 60%, then the current blower speed is 80% x 60% = 48% right? And the servo is at 80%?
  • The bar looks like it has one that is a different shade of blue than the other. Is one of them the exponential moving average of the output %?
  • There is also a yellow-orange line - overlayed on top of the bar. What does that indicate?
 
Yeah the graph is autoranging on the temperature axis, which is a bit of a pain if you have some data outside the area you want to view. I'd like there to be a way to adjust it but I hate the drag to zoom because it makes a mess of the continuous data stream. A lot of the interactions people are used to having with graphs assumes a static dataset. I thought some sliders for min and max but it looks awful. I'll get around to that sometime.

You're right about the percent math but wrong about the indicators.
-- The label and blue bar is output. This is your base number everything else is calculated off of. It is the percent open the damper is, if you don't have it set to open/close only.
-- The different shade of blue inside the the blue bar is the blower speed, adjusted for max blower speed. This is just output % x max %.
-- The yellow pip is the exponential moving average over something like 120x 1 second samples.
 
I am absolutely stunned at how well this works. My wife soldered all the bits up for me and everything worked like a dream with no tuning or fussing or even (heaven forbid) testing. I just fired up a chimney and poured it on a basket of unlit charcoal and held 225 for about 6 hours on a Chargriller Smokin' Pro. Fan did very little work and each addition of charcoal had negligible effect on the pit temp. It is not the most efficient grill by a long shot, but I notice a vast improvement in fuel consumption and a great reduction in hands on activity. I mostly just went to the bar and drank beer while my HeaterMeter did all the work.
 
I found that my T/C pit probe was low by 20+ degrees when I calibrated it in boiling water - prior to my innaugural run. I had completed modifications to accomidate the RD I bought that has a T/C amp PCBA. Modifications included installation of a selector rocker switch to allow probes to be connected to the HM, or the RD.
I know I can purchase a pit probe that very well could be of better quality. However, my curiosity is making me want to know for sure if the probe is incorrect.
How can I determine this? Are there resistences, or voltages I can check for?
 
Dave Pasma said:
I found that my T/C pit probe was low by 20+ degrees when I calibrated it in boiling water - prior to my innaugural run. I had completed modifications to accomidate the RD I bought that has a T/C amp PCBA. Modifications included installation of a selector rocker switch to allow probes to be connected to the HM, or the RD.
I know I can purchase a pit probe that very well could be of better quality. However, my curiosity is making me want to know for sure if the probe is incorrect.
How can I determine this? Are there resistences, or voltages I can check for?
Click to expand...

If you are talking about a thermocouple pit probe, then you need type K. I prefer isolated type K probes over grounded ones...
 
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