HeaterMeter Hardware v4.2.4


 
The parts for the TC are not included if you do not buy the TC board. Or at least 2 months ago they were not.
 
RalphTrimble said:
I assume the TC kit has all the SMD parts mounted on the board, but I am wondering if the bare PCB kit includes the SMD parts for the TC (not soldered on the board) or are the TC parts not included at all in the Bare PCB kit?
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The TC parts are not included at all on the "Bare PCB" kit option, thanks for the question I should make that more clear. The SMD parts are too tiny to try and include without them getting lost I think (also the extra labor of packing them).
 
Just a quick update on the SMD switch, I received one over the holiday. It was easy to install and worked perfectly. It actually looks like they took the through board switch and cut the pins off. As a result there were small nubs that caught on the holes in the HM circuit board making alignment easy. Everything fit correctly into the case I ordered from Tom. This switch may be a good alternative for someone trying to save a few bucks on shipping (at least while they are still available from Mouser).
 
Actually, that switch was a pain to begin with. As i lost track of how many headers i have melted from soldering iron hitting them.
 
I just got my Mouser 688-SKQUBA 4 directional switch yesterday. I does line up nicely and looks like it will be easy to solder as mentioned above. They are showing 743 in stock right now.

Rick

MultiDirSwitch.JPG
 
Thanks Rick, I've updated the wiki with the part link. Hopefully these will last a little while to get us to the next HeaterMeter version that solves all these End-of-life issues.
 
New to temp controllers

Hello. I am new to the BBQ Smoker Control world. Last year I built a UDS. It works great and now I want to add a temp controller. I tend to stare at my iGrill whenever I am smoking. Not good.

I am an electrical/electronics engineer by education, but I have not done hands-on electronics for almost 20 years. Yikes.

I have been researching temp controllers and even though an off-the-shelf controller would be the quickest solution, I think it is something of a cop-out, and also, I think I can handle the DIY alternative. Also, most turn-key systems use a blower. I can achieve any temperature I need with the ports/valve on my UDS. I am thinking that I prefer to control the input air with a damper.

The Heatermeter appears to be the best system I have seen, that won't require a lot of my own engineering time.

I have read this entire forum thread, and I have made it through a portion of the wiki information. There is still some things I am not familiar with.

I don't want to intrude on the wrong forum/thread. As I start down the path of getting parts and assembling the HM, what is the best way for me to ask questions and get answers?

Thanks.

Dave
 
Dave Pasma said:
Hello. I am new to the BBQ Smoker Control world. Last year I built a UDS. It works great and now I want to add a temp controller. I tend to stare at my iGrill whenever I am smoking. Not good.

I am an electrical/electronics engineer by education, but I have not done hands-on electronics for almost 20 years. Yikes.

I have been researching temp controllers and even though an off-the-shelf controller would be the quickest solution, I think it is something of a cop-out, and also, I think I can handle the DIY alternative. Also, most turn-key systems use a blower. I can achieve any temperature I need with the ports/valve on my UDS. I am thinking that I prefer to control the input air with a damper.

The Heatermeter appears to be the best system I have seen, that won't require a lot of my own engineering time.

I have read this entire forum thread, and I have made it through a portion of the wiki information. There is still some things I am not familiar with.

I don't want to intrude on the wrong forum/thread. As I start down the path of getting parts and assembling the HM, what is the best way for me to ask questions and get answers?

Thanks.

Dave
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Welcome to the Heatermeter world. I too use an UDS, I do recommend getting a larger blower, then the stock 6.5cfm. I would go with a 10cfm(minimum of a 8.6cfm) because the UDS's larger volume. Bryan has put together the best controller on the market, it has more options then the most expensive units on the market. It nice to see more and more people are finding that out, and are taking the leap of building one.
 
Dave,
First of all, with your background building a Heater Meter should be a no-brainer... Lots of people with no electronics background at all, many that have never soldered before, have successfully built Heater Meters...

There are a lot of commercial BBQ controllers these days, but you put your finger right on one of the features that sets the Heater Meter apart... I don't think any commercial units can control a servo damper like the Heater Meter. In fact, "most" if the commercial controllers don't even control the blower speed, they just pulse the blower on/off at one speed. The Heater Meter can ramp the blower speed and the servo opening from 0-FULL with a ton of configuration options on how the blower and servo operate. In fact just about every aspect of the Heater Meter is extremely customizable and forever evolving into something better... I am also fond of running my pit without the blower letting the servo valve control the cook, so I set the blower to run "At MAX Only". In that mode the blower will only run when the air flow is at 100%, when it drops down to 99% or below the blower turns off and the servo damper runs the show. This is real nice because you get fan assist when you're firing up the pit but the blower turns off as soon as the pit approaches the target temperature. GREAT! I designed the 3D printed Roto Damper to achieve this on my kamado, check out that thread for information and ideas about how to get a damper going. I've tried about a half dozen designs and documented most of it in that thread....

As far as getting help, it's best if you first search the forum for your issue because there are a lot of "been there done that" issues. If you don't find an answer from your search then it's best to start your own thread, ask or elude to the question in the title of the thread and elaborate in the post and somebody will usually chime in to help in short order.

IDK how far down the Heater Meter path you have made it so far, but one of the biggest questions to ask with the latest HMv4.2 is to Thermocouple or not for the Pit Probe. For low and slow there is no huge advantage cause standard probes handle smoker range temps just fine, but if you have a Kamado and do higher heat cooking as well the TC is a great option, 'cause the sky's the limit on temps with a TC. TC's are also cheaper and can be much more durable than standard probes as well. If I had a nickle for every over heated/water soaked dead Maverick probe, well, I'd have a pile of nickles! LOL My first TC has been living outside for over 6 months now and still going strong! If you decide to go down the TC path keep in mind that the TC amp requires extremely small SMD soldering. If your not up to that Bryan is selling boards with the SMD stuff already soldered on, and is now offering full Heater Meter kits which is nice... Might want to check that out rather than going old school with three orders from Mouser, Digikey and OSHPark...
 
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Hello Ralph. That was a fantastic response. Thank-you! I think you answered almost all of my questions.

I have seen glimpses of the Roto Damper in the forum. I will definitely spend some time looking that up.

So if you don't mind, here are a few more questions:

1) I use my UDS mostly for low and slow, and also for higher heat cooks - not more than 350 degF. So, thermistor probes would work fine. However, I can envision using it also on my Weber when I do high heat cooks (steaks, etc.). So I am thinking the TC option is for me. In addition, I appreciate your comments about TC durability vs thermistor probes.

2) I have thought about taking a step-by-step approach (working controller, then add connectivity) - to make sure I don't spend unnecessary $$ if I am not able to complete it. However, I know that I will want the full functionality immediately after I get the controller working. Do you have any advice on this?

3) To purchase the kit, do I just go to http://store.heatermeter.com/ and buy it there? I notice that the kit comes with a 6.5cfm fan. Would I just separately get a 10cfm like you suggested, or can the kit come with that fan? (Should that question be directed at Bryan Mayland?)

4) Do I work separately to obtain a case and the roto-damper?

5) Are you the guy that created the "jetted intake" for your UDS? I think that concept makes good sense - more efficient use of intake air, and better control. Do you have that on your UDS that uses the HM?
 
Answers in Bold

Dave Pasma said:
Hello Ralph. That was a fantastic response. Thank-you! I think you answered almost all of my questions.

I have seen glimpses of the Roto Damper in the forum. I will definitely spend some time looking that up.

So if you don't mind, here are a few more questions:

1) I use my UDS mostly for low and slow, and also for higher heat cooks - not more than 350 degF. So, thermistor probes would work fine. However, I can envision using it also on my Weber when I do high heat cooks (steaks, etc.). So I am thinking the TC option is for me. In addition, I appreciate your comments about TC durability vs thermistor probes.

Yeah, I would get a TC version, if you plan to use the UDS for high of 350+, because if you are at those temps its very easy to take your lid off the UDS and have the temp raise well beyond the rating of the probes, and you can use it on the Weber also.

2) I have thought about taking a step-by-step approach (working controller, then add connectivity) - to make sure I don't spend unnecessary $$ if I am not able to complete it. However, I know that I will want the full functionality immediately after I get the controller working. Do you have any advice on this?

You will want to get a Pi to be able to program the Heatermeter and since you will need a Pi, a Wifi adapter is not much more, after that there is not much else you may need. The rest of the options are nice to have and can be bought at a later date.

3) To purchase the kit, do I just go to http://store.heatermeter.com/ and buy it there? I notice that the kit comes with a 6.5cfm fan. Would I just separately get a 10cfm like you suggested, or can the kit come with that fan? (Should that question be directed at Bryan Mayland?)

If you buy the Heatermeter in kit form, you will receive the 6.5cfm blower, you will need to order a separate blower from another source, Ebay is a great and cheap place. Look for Delta blowers, I have been using my Delta bfb1012HH 28cfm on my UDS since 2010

4) Do I work separately to obtain a case and the roto-damper?

Yes/and no depending. I know Ralph makes the Rotodamper and he to can make a version of the HM case and Tom makes cases. They both are great to work with and you would need to contact them to figure whats best for you

5) Are you the guy that created the "jetted intake" for your UDS? I think that concept makes good sense - more efficient use of intake air, and better control. Do you have that on your UDS that uses the HM?

I did not create a "jetted intake" I know of someone using one on something other then a UDS, though, but sure whom it was. I was going to try one on my UDS but after asking questions on another website that has the "mother of all UDS" threads going, I decided it would not be that beneficial to the UDS and have just kept it simple. I currently use a 3/4 intake, but after this winter, I will be adding auxiliary openings, as I was not able to get enough air into the UDS to keep a stable temp. My older UDS had more openings and did not have any problems with cold weather.
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John
 
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Dave, I just got my case and rotodamper from Ralph. They are both awesome. The case is really cool with the slide on rear cover and a really cool cap for the switch in the same color as the case. I agree with john about going with the TC option from the beginning. You will not be disappointed. Don't know much about UDS as my cookers are all Weber. Good Luck
 
Well Dave, Looks like John answered most of your questions, and I guess my point was kinda missed about starting your own thread to ask questions instead of asking questions in the HM hardware sticky... I know Bryan would prefer this thread not turn into a Q&A thread...

As John said, Yes to TC if you want to do high heat cooks like steak etc with the HM. And get the rPi right away otherwise you are gonna be handicapped to configure your HM and get it tuned up to your grill(s). On the blower, I personally do not see any need to use a larger blower, I know John uses a massive blower but then he chokes it down with a ball valve, I don't quite get it but to each his own. If you look at my last post in the RD thread last night you will see I did a Pizza cook with a smaller than stock blower with an outdoor temperature of 0F and had no problem. I really think the air flow of the stock blower is plenty unless you need to forge steel or something! LOL I have made my own sliding back case design for the HMv4.2 and Tom has been making his cases for the HM from way back, if you are interested in a case and/or roto damper contact me via email at rotodamper AT hotmail.com and I can help you out. Finally, yes, I was the guy that developed the "air burner" if that is what you were referring to as the "jetted intake", it does work awesome on my bullet smoker but I never integrated it into my Kamado 'cause the Kamado design makes it hard to do, though quite a few others have made air burners for their grills with great success... It is particularly well suited for bullet/barrel type cookers....
I think that covers it.... If you have more questions I think it best if you start your own thread, maybe titled "new build questions" or something like that... just so this sticky thread doesn't grow long with answers to all of your questions.
 
Thanks again guys for all of your answers and advice. I did read your point about starting a new thread. It must not have reach my mouse and keyboard yet. Sorry about that. I will not use this thread for build questions in the future. Thanks.
 
I've added the option to not include the blower to the store, which will save $9 off the cost that you can put toward a different sized blower.

Thanks everyone for answering all the questions for me :)
 
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