HeaterMeter Hardware v4.2.4


 
Bryan, I just ordered the new 4.2.4 circuit board. I still have a lot of the parts from my last build a couple of years ago but I don't have the 4 way switch and Mouser shows it discontinued and not available. Is there a replacement part that is available? I am also assuming if I want wired ethernet that I will want the raspberry pi B? Also, I have a atmega in my parts box but I think it was used and programmed. Is there an easy way to default this part?
Thanks, Bob Ivey
 
Doing some searches, Newark has some(140). There other places too, but i mever order from the others.

But, this is not good. The hm board will need to be changed sooner then later, and the A+ and B+ issues dont help.
 
I saw that link also. But, i was not sure or why they had them so cheap compared to everyone else.

Hope Bryan see this and puts up an alternate link.
 
Nooooooo! I knew they were discontinued like 6 months ago, I just never thought this day would actually come :( The "replacement" part is not only surface mount (which isn't too hard to solder because it is big) but also moves diagonally instead of up down left right which is no good. I'll update the wiki with a link. Thanks for finding them, Bob.

This is one of the other things I wanted to address with the new PCB but I hadn't found a replacement yet. I sort of want to go back to the 4 buttons instead of the one directional control because it isn't as tactile and sometimes I press the wrong way. That takes a ton of board space though.
 
Bryan, would going back to a button board make more sense. You could have a place on the hm for stand off, which would leave a small footprint and then have button board with 4 buttons.
 
Mouser has the surface mount version of the original switch still available. It is part # 688-SKQUBA. The only bad news is that this switch is also going to be discontinued at some point. They have 700+ in stock. Hopefully these and the ones that Bob found may be enough to last till another long term solution can be found.
 
Mouser has the surface mount version of the original switch still available. It is part # 688-SKQUBA. The only bad news is that this switch is also going to be discontinued at some point. They have 700+ in stock. Hopefully these and the ones that Bob found may be enough to last till another long term solution can be found.

Smd wont work as is and with the case. They are smaller, i believe. I know for sure they are shorter

Edited: After looking at the part again, it could work, possibly. When they gave the part dimensions in mouser they included the pin height on the through-hole part, but both parts are the same height, and have basically the same solder points. The hard part for people, would be soldering it to the current HM.
 
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Smd wont work as is and with the case. They are smaller, i believe. I know for sure they are shorter

Edited: After looking at the part again, it could work, possibly. When they gave the part dimensions in mouser they included the pin height on the through-hole part, but both parts are the same height, and have basically the same solder points. The hard part for people, would be soldering it to the current HM.

Hopefully installing this SMD will be easy after surviving the thermocouple amp soldering. I have one of these on order, I will let you know if I run into any issues installing it.
 
Yeah the SMD switch is pretty easy to install. Just solder over one of the holes, then put the switch over it, line it up with the other holes, and touch the solder with the iron. It will anchor that one point then soldering the other points is almost as easy as soldering the through holes.
 
Then the question is how will this change affect the 3D cases that are available?

It depends on the height of the button compared to the through hole version, but I don't think they will be very different. The biggest problem is going to be a large user to user variation of how centered the button can be soldered. The through hole has the advantage that there is essentially no ability to align the button in an off-axis position. The SMD switch will require that you get your alignment correct on that first solder connection before soldering the rest of the part. There is some room built into the case that can compensate for slight misalignment, but any large deviations will be visible and may compromise button function.
 
Exactly right. The button height on the through-hole and SMD are roughly identical (actually identical if the button is mounted all the way flush). As Tom said though, even a small amount of error could compromise the button operation because the case would contact the button cap before it makes it far enough to register. The pads on the PCB are close to 0.08" across so that's rather large in when it comes to working when soldered vs working when the case is over it.
 
That is a great point about centering the switch on the circuit board. I completely forgot about the tolerances being small with the case. I have made crude through-hole adoptions in the past with other SMD items by soldering a piece of resistor lead to the SMD's contacts. This allowed me to then attach the SMD just like any other through-hole part. The trick is just keeping the SMD cool so the solder doesn't melt and come apart. I am not sure if this solution will work on this switch until I get it in my hand. If I can attach leads to 2 opposite corners then they should keep the switch centered while I make the rest of the connections.
This is why I love building items from scratch, experimentation is half the fun!
 
if the button does happen to be a tad out of place then a nice sharp knife, you can take a little off the case around the button.

Or just tack on the board and test fit the case and the button cap to check for clearance, should be centered
 
I didn't want to link to that onlinecomponents site until I knew they were legit, but their story checks out.


The packaging is a little unusual, 5 buttons in each little compartment, but they shipped and were delivered in a week. Shipping is a flat $6 regardless of order size, which is great for me but not great for singles.
 
Nice to see you doing your own thing and putting out a kit Bryan. I've got a question... You've got a Thermocouple PCB and Bare PCB kit available. I assume the TC kit has all the SMD parts mounted on the board, but I am wondering if the bare PCB kit includes the SMD parts for the TC (not soldered on the board) or are the TC parts not included at all in the Bare PCB kit?
 
Nice to see you doing your own thing and putting out a kit Bryan. I've got a question... You've got a Thermocouple PCB and Bare PCB kit available. I assume the TC kit has all the SMD parts mounted on the board, but I am wondering if the bare PCB kit includes the SMD parts for the TC (not soldered on the board) or are the TC parts not included at all in the Bare PCB kit?

I was wondering the same today, when i was answering a question for someone. It looks like they are soldered already, although im quite often wrong lol.
 

 

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