HeaterMeter Hardware v4.2.4


 
Not really. I feel like the software isn't exactly commercial grade and there are the issues with ground loop noise that some people experience in a bad way which I'd hate to be on the hook for doing tech support on. I also know nothing about how to make a product, make molds for cases, design boxes, etc, and with my current 60hr/week work schedule there's really not a chance of that.
 
Couple of questions about HeaterMeter 4.2. 1) I have a Raspberry Pi 2 Model B; can I use it? Or is the hdware listing referring to a Raspberry Pi 1. 2) I plan on buying the HeaterMeter kit. Description says does not include the case but other in other places says the kit does. Do I need to buy the case separate?
 
You'll need to use the older "B" version of the raspberry pi, as the additional USB ports on the newer B+ and v2 B won't allow the heatermeter board to properly mate up with the RasPi.

Looking at the HM Store, the case is a $25 purchase on its own. If you have a 3D printer, you can also print one. The files are located in this thread.

Your RasPi needs to look like the one on the right.

O6xSG58l.jpg
 
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The Raspberry Pi 2 Model B will be supported in the software in the near future. The Raspberry Pi B+ and Raspberry Pi 2 B have the same form factor. There is a HeaterMeter SMD design that currently supports the RPI B+. Check out this thread:

http://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?59300-SMD-Heatermeter-on-a-RPI-B-Yes-it-can-be-done

John Caras said:
Couple of questions about HeaterMeter 4.2. 1) I have a Raspberry Pi 2 Model B; can I use it? Or is the hdware listing referring to a Raspberry Pi 1. 2) I plan on buying the HeaterMeter kit. Description says does not include the case but other in other places says the kit does. Do I need to buy the case separate?
Click to expand...
 
For Thanksgiving I'm doing the HeaterMeter store's first sale. Use coupon code CHEAPERMETER from Nov-26 through Nov-29 for 10% off any order. The store will also be closing next week until Christmas week as I will be out of town and won't be able to fulfill orders.
 
Bryan,

Is the 4.2 Heatermeter kit is the one with the 4 buttons and separate PCB? If not, when would it be available since I find it more user friendly.

Happy new year,

Thanks
 
Nope that is v4.3 which got sidelined because of finishing up work and me being in and out of town so much. I was hoping to be done with that by end of January but the client is dragging it out so I am trying to get them to lock and be done by mid-February. It is pretty close though.

As a reminder to others reading this, the v4.3 brings compatibility with Pi 2 and Pi B+ (can't confirm a Zero yet) and uses 4 buttons instead of one. It is smaller but fatter, and will cost a few dollars more. There are no new features (in fact there is no RF or FTDI connectors on it).
 
I'm interested in trying to build the new HM 4.2.4 but, I'm still a little unclear about the thermocouple story. Without the thermocouple option do I still get two probe inputs? One for the meat and one for the pit? Or is the thermocouple option for the pit?

1) What's the advantage of the thermocouple option?
2) Can I build the plain (no-thermocouple) version and then later add the thermocouple option?

Thanks,
 
The HM has 4 probes no matter what way you slice it, the Pit Probe and 3 food probes. The food probes are all standard probes, the pit probe can be a standard probe or optionally a TC Pit Probe. In theory you could start out with a standard pit probe and add the TC parts later, but that isn't a very practical path because soldering the SMD parts for the TC would be much harder after all the other components are installed in the board, it is much easier done when the HM board is unpopulated and can sit flat on a table.
As for the advantages of the TC pit probe, the main advantages are you can get TC's that can handle much higher temps than standard probes, tc are generally more rugged than standard probes (don't die from moisture etc as easily) and they are inexpensive as well.
 
You always get 4 probes.

Either 4 x thermistor probes ( 1 for pit, 3 for food ) or 1 x thermocouple probe ( pit ) and 3 x thermistor probes ( food )

Advantages: Thermocouples are cheap, sturdy and can withstand much higher temps compared to common thermistor probes.

Yes, you can build the non TC model and then retrofit it, but it's always easier to just build the TC version or buy the board with the TC components already soldered on or the kit with the TC board.
 
Steve_M said:
You always get 4 probes.

Either 4 x thermistor probes ( 1 for pit, 3 for food ) or 1 x thermocouple probe ( pit ) and 3 x thermistor probes ( food )

Advantages: Thermocouples are cheap, sturdy and can withstand much higher temps compared to common thermistor probes.

Yes, you can build the non TC model and then retrofit it, but it's always easier to just build the TC version or buy the board with the TC components already soldered on or the kit with the TC board.
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I was wondering if I needed to order 4 thermocouple boards....one for each thermocouple. But according to the above, you only run one probe as a thermocouple, the other 3 as normal thermistor probes?? One TC for the pit temp is all that's needed? If you have high pit temps, will the regular probe cables be able to handle the heat at 700F or more?

I'm trying to get all this figured out so I order what I need. I was ready to order 1 heatermeter board and then my question above on the number of thermocouple boards to order.
 
If you order 4 thermocouple boards you must be building 4 HM, as one board is one heatmeter. You have the choice of either 4 regular probes or 3 regular and one thermalcouple. You can't run 4 boards with one heatmeter setup.
 
Dave Smith said:
If you order 4 thermocouple boards you must be building 4 HM, as one board is one heatmeter. You have the choice of either 4 regular probes or 3 regular and one thermalcouple. You can't run 4 boards with one heatmeter setup.
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I'm building a single heatermeter. I wanted to use a thermocouple version...
In this case, I need both the heatermeter board @ $13.50 and a thermocouple board @ $40.00?

Or is the thermocouple board at $40, a different version of heatermeter board, and I don't need the additional board at $13.50?

Getting ready to order.
 
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A thermocouple board is just a heatermeter board with one thermocouple amplifier soldered to it, good for a single thermocouple probe (and 3 regular probes). So if you're only building one heatermeter you just need to order one thermocouple board OR one heatermeter board. They're the same item, just the thermocouple builds on top of the regular board.
 
Hello guys. I'm new to this but I've been bbqin along time. I've been looking for something like this for a while but the name brand devices are going for way to much out of my pocket range. I'm a little confused on how this is actually put together and how it works. I am going to buy one very soon and just want to know how to know what to buy.
 
Artie O said:
Hello guys. I'm new to this but I've been bbqin along time. I've been looking for something like this for a while but the name brand devices are going for way to much out of my pocket range. I'm a little confused on how this is actually put together and how it works. I am going to buy one very soon and just want to know how to know what to buy.
Click to expand...

Hi Artie,

The most straightforward thing to do is to purchase a v4.2 kit from the heatermeter store. You have a couple of options to choose from before clicking on "Add to cart"

1) Thermocouple parts: The v4.2 version of the HeaterMeter can use a thermocouple for the pit probe. This is nice for high heat cooks or if you're looking for a more durable probe, as the standard thermistor probes aren't able to endure pit temps above 400(ish) degrees F. My suggestion would be to go with the Thermocouple PCB option.

2) Raspberry Pi: If you don't already have one, then add this option as well.

You can also purchase a 3D printed case from the store.

If you plan to use it over wifi, you'll need to purchase a compatible USB wireless adapter for the Raspberry Pi.

You should also head over to the main HM wiki site and have a look at the Intro page as well as the assembly page.

Cheers.
 
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Thanks for the quick response and your very good information you provided. Now I had another question if it's not to much to ask lol. I know this has 1 ambient pit probe and 3 meat probes but is it possible to have more than 1 pit probe at a time . My smoker rages in temps from hot by.my fire box and cooler farther away. And my cooking chamber isn't that big due to using a cheap offer smoker. So I like to know my temps on both ends of the cooking chamber and average the 2 to get my temp in the middle. This helps with longer cooks and adding additional meat during the longer cooks. (I hope that makes sense lol.) And the other is how is the fan connected to smoker? The big guys with the top dollar controllers have certain adapters for different smokers. Is the HM fan a universal fit or is there mods for each setup in general . I hope I'm making any sense . Sorry I'm new to this. I love the idea of babysitting my smoker and just playing with my air intake and just focusing on my cooks over long periods of time But living in Minnesota it is hard to due in the winter.
 
There's only support for 1 pit/control probe, so you'll need to position it in your smoker at an ideal location. That being said, if you disable the first probe in the software, it will use the 2nd probe as the pit probe. You could watch how both probes are doing and if you think the the 2nd probe is better suited for controlling the pit temps, disable the first probe in the config for the remainder of that cook. It's a hack, but it's better than nothing!

You'll need to make your own fan/blower adapter. Check out the "so how are you attaching your blower to the smoker" thread.

The fan that comes with the HM kit is also the fan used in some of the servo driven dampers, like this one, this one and this one.

You can use any 12v blower. If you already have an Auber blower or a BBQ Guru blower, it will also work. You'll just need to wire it up to use the RJ45 Jack wiring.
 
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