Genesis Platinum C


 
Got out there today and managed to get quite a bit done. Got that stuck nut off. Pulled up the side burner and removed the control panel plate. Then fixed the igniter (except that I decided to spring for the correct part so it will work with the side burner too). Then began taking apart and lubing the valves. Lost a spring but fortunately I have a Summit chock full of spare springs. Didn't lose any screws but they're interchangeable too. The spring inside the side burner was partly rusted and a section was rotted off. Managed to clean most of the rust off the rest and there's enough that it still works. Which is good since my other Genesi don't have side burner and the Summit doesn't use that weird spring for its side burners. After all that, I tested for leaks. There weren't any. Left the control panel open since I'll soon be getting a new panel plate from Samuel and the replacement igniter.

Began cleaning the grill. Not sure how to get all the marks off. Used soapy water and then Formula 409. Neither was ideal. Suggestions are appreciated. Also began monkeying around with hoods. Pulled the pins out on the 1000-LX and 2000 so they could be switched. When I have time, I'll pull off the end plates and repaint them. The wooden handle on one needs to be glued, as it's split. But it's a nice clean split that can be easily repaired When the Platinum is done, I'll work on the 2000. The end caps from the second hood will go with the blue lid panel that Bruce sent. It's supposed to arrive by Tuesday. Not that I expect to have time to get out there again until next weekend. Tomorrow we're heading to a Superbowl party and I expect we'll be there late.
 
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I wonder if that has been modified. Those drip pan rails are suppose to screw in. You can buy them aftermarket on ebay.
 
Nope, on some grills, Weber just had the one screw in the middle and for the other there were just little cutout tabs that fit into the posts on the cook box. Horrible idea as those aluminum drip pan rails always bend down like that. I cut the tabs off and drill out the rails and put screws in the two outside holes on all my rehabs when I have a grill like that.
I guess weber thought it was a good idea to save on a couple screws per grill that way.

Those rails are usually aluminum and can very easily be bent into shape by hand.
 
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Bruce said:
Nope, on some grills, Weber just had the one screw in the middle and for the other there were just little cutout tabs that fit into the posts on the cook box. Horrible idea as those aluminum drip pan rails always bend down like that. I cut the tabs off and drill out the rails and put screws in the two outside holes on all my rehabs when I have a grill like that.
I guess weber thought it was a good idea to save on a couple screws per grill that way.
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Thanks Bruce. Gives me an excuse to misspend another afternoon. Should be easier than the holes I drilled earlier. Guess I need to pick up an angle grinder and cutoff wheel. I knew that day was coming.
 
Bruce is correct. Mine has tabs in front and a screw in the middle the rail on mine is bent up in the front.

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Roy-Parallax said:
Thanks Bruce. Gives me an excuse to misspend another afternoon. Should be easier than the holes I drilled earlier. Guess I need to pick up an angle grinder and cutoff wheel. I knew that day was coming.
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You shouldnt need to cut anything off on as far as I see. You can just remove the middle screw, bend the rail back straight and put it back on with a front and back screw. The cook box mounts where the little tabs fit in should already be drilled out to accept a self threading screw just like the screw in the middle.

But, if you work on grills long enough, you will need that angle grinder and cutoff screw. If the middle screw is frozen in, you can try this to get it out without twisting it off.

tvwbb.com

HOW TO: Remove Cook Box Slide Rail Screws - The Easy Way

WHAT: This is a How To on removing the slide rail screws on the older Genesis cook boxes that have corroded in and typically wind up being twisted off. WHY: It is extremely difficult and time consuming if not impossible to get these screws out without twisting at least one or more of them off...
tvwbb.com tvwbb.com
 
Bruce said:
You shouldnt need to cut anything off on as far as I see. You can just remove the middle screw, bend the rail back straight and put it back on with a front and back screw. The cook box mounts where the little tabs fit in should already be drilled out to accept a self threading screw just like the screw in the middle.

But, if you work on grills long enough, you will need that angle grinder and cutoff screw. If the middle screw is frozen in, you can try this to get it out without twisting it off.

tvwbb.com

HOW TO: Remove Cook Box Slide Rail Screws - The Easy Way

WHAT: This is a How To on removing the slide rail screws on the older Genesis cook boxes that have corroded in and typically wind up being twisted off. WHY: It is extremely difficult and time consuming if not impossible to get these screws out without twisting at least one or more of them off...
tvwbb.com tvwbb.com
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This thing's on sale through Harbor Freight. Too much power? It's an impact wrench; not an impact driver.

www.harborfreight.com

8.5 Amp 1/2 in. Impact Wrench with Rocker Switch

Amazing deals on this 1/2In Electric Impact Wrench at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com
 
Yah, you want a small 1/4" impact and even with that, it will twist off that bolt in a flash if you give it full power. That half inch impact wrench would twist off a much bigger bolt head. There is nothing on a grill that you would want to touch with that.

The 1/4" impact Bauer is the one you would want. But before you do that, you might want to simply try to take it out with a ratchet and six point socket. I think it is 5/16. It might come right out.
 
Bruce said:
Yah, you want a small 1/4" impact and even with that, it will twist off that bolt in a flash if you give it full power. That half inch impact wrench would twist off a much bigger bolt head. There is nothing on a grill that you would want to touch with that.

The 1/4" impact Bauer is the one you would want. But before you do that, you might want to simply try to take it out with a ratchet and six point socket. I think it is 5/16. It might come right out.
Click to expand...
I suppose I could also try to replicate the action of the impact wrench by turning a tiny bit, letting off, doing it again and again, applying very light pressure.
 
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