Genesis 1000 - Good Deal?


 
Awesome, thanks Bruce. Just to be clear, can the INSIDE of the cook box also be powder coated? P.S. your video on replacing frame cross members inspired me to pick up a Jawhorse; I found one for $50 šŸ˜

Jon, are you saying that model Genesis Platinum is a preferred grill to the Genesis 1000? If so, why?


Also separately, can the LP manifold from a different Genesis 1000-5000 be swapped into my 1000 if I can't successfully "un-stick" my one seized valve?
 
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John,

The '05/'06 Platinum I mentioned has an all 304 stainless frame - the only Genesis to ever feature that. The frame will last for decades with any kind of care. The downside is that it is a later Silver/Gold/Platinum series with the 5 flavorizer bar box rather than the original style with two rows/13 bars.

Bruce recently posted how he melded one of these Platinum frames with a deep 13 bar box. Not a simple undertaking, but it can be done.

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***Weber Unicorn Alert*** SS Platinum Conversion from Shallow to Deep Box

OK, I had been talking about doing this for a good year and had been thinking about how to do it the whole time. I took this as a challenge as it has been attempted by others and talked about by many more. I wanted to give it a shot and try to do with as little cobble jobbing as possible. I...
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I do not mean to say that you can't get great results with powder coating most of your metal. It would just seem to be a really pricey approach, and underneath you still have regular steel. I have scraped my fair share of powder coating off metal that was rusting underneath.

Regarding the firebox inside, while high heat powder coating MAY be safe, I can't think of any good reason to take a chance or pay to get that done. These grills came with plain aluminum inside. If you want to sandblast back to clean aluminum for your own enjoyment of it looking great for a day, that's fine. But two cooks later and it will be coated with grease which is actually a good thing, up to a point. A sparkling interior is a great selling point for a flip grill, but a nicely seasoned grill actually cooks better.
 
Is there a way to remove this cap without breaking it?

It's for the folding table.

It looks like a tab under there, and I've tried to push it down with a flathead screwdriver, and then pull, but no luck.
 

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John, I learned from someone else on here. You disassemble the frame so you can slide a broom handle or piece of pipe inside the square tube and up against the end cap. Then press in on the tab like you did and tap the broom handle to drive the cap out. Tap it, not hammer hard on it because if they are rusted in you can just drive/break the end off and leave the rest of the plug inside the tube.
 
Thank you very much.

Next up is more scary for me.
My center valve is seized, so I was going to follow the instructional video posted on these forums to lube and clean it.

Problem is, these tiny screws are also seized/stuck.

I know there's all kinds of solutions to try (rubber band, Easy Out Bits, Steel Wool, drill out?).

Just wondering if anyone has experience with these particular tiny screws and can offer any tried and true method before I go wasting money on "try try again" methods.

And at some point, I start to wonder if the $24 I'll spend on the Brake Cleaner + Lube should just go towards a brand new manifold assembly anyways...
 

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Why are you wasting your time with WD40? It's NOT a penetrating oil it's for water displacement. Get something good. I think we posted a whole video from Project Farm on this
 
Funny you mention Project Farm, I was basing my efforts on this video:


WD-40 comes out in 4th place, and I already have it on-hand without having to go spend more on something else. It also lists its uses as "Penetrates" on the backside of the can.
 

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John, I have posted before that it took me five days of putting PB Blaster on those screws before I got them out, but I never stripped any. I also have lots of patience.
 
I would start by using a drill the size of the head and just drilling the head off. After you remove the top of the valve there might be enough of the threads sticking out to clamp a pair of vice grips on to turn it out. And soaking it with PB Blaster first will help Then you need a M3-12 mm screw to replace it with. At least that is the screw that mine have always taken. Got mine off eBay.
 
John-NY said:
Thank you very much.

Next up is more scary for me.
My center valve is seized, so I was going to follow the instructional video posted on these forums to lube and clean it.

Problem is, these tiny screws are also seized/stuck.

I know there's all kinds of solutions to try (rubber band, Easy Out Bits, Steel Wool, drill out?).

Just wondering if anyone has experience with these particular tiny screws and can offer any tried and true method before I go wasting money on "try try again" methods.

And at some point, I start to wonder if the $24 I'll spend on the Brake Cleaner + Lube should just go towards a brand new manifold assembly anyways...
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First get the manifold off of the grill and put it on an old cookie sheet. Spray whatever penetrating oil you have on all the screws and valve stems and let it all soak for a a couple of days while you work on something else. Come back with a wire brush to remove all the rust and buildup on the valves. Do the same thing with the tank scale while your at it. It's going to need more work than you think to make it look and function right again. Just my 2 cents
 
Ed Pinnell said:
Just something I've learned over the years...if you have more than 1 screw to remove, when you remove a screw it puts an additional load on the remaining screw(s), so once you get a screw freely turning screw it back down and then attack the remaining screws.
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So that's why the last screw is always...
This reminds me of something else. But my memory is failing me.
 
John-NY said:
Funny you mention Project Farm, I was basing my efforts on this video:


WD-40 comes out in 4th place, and I already have it on-hand without having to go spend more on something else. It also lists its uses as "Penetrates" on the backside of the can.
Click to expand...
As an old mechanic I can tell you first hand I would get better results pi$$ing on the parts than WD40 would give
 
For many years people swear by the trans fluid mixture. But I can never remember the other part to mix. Mineral spirit?
 
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