Genesis 1000 - Good Deal?


 
Out of sheer curiosity, I'm wondering what you sell your flipped grills for, and what kind of area/market you're in?

Also, regarding my refurb, I did notice the paint cracking off on the bottom frame legs...so maybe I will have to give the frame more attention than I figured.
 
John-NY said:
Out of sheer curiosity, I'm wondering what you sell your flipped grills for, and what kind of area/market you're in?

Also, regarding my refurb, I did notice the paint cracking off on the bottom frame legs...so maybe I will have to give the frame more attention than I figured.
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Don’t quit your day job.
the older 3 burner grills with controls on the side sell between $100 and $350 repaired or restored.
Some parts of the US have no market to buy or sell considering you can reach millions of people on Craigslist and Facebook.

that said it’s a good hobby. You can get grills for your own use for short money. If you have friends or family that enjoy the old grills all the better.
 
I've read quite a few posts and comments about having to be very careful about certain bolts and utilizing Center Drill Bits for the purpose of getting the bolts out, I think?

Which bolts in particular do I need to watch out for? Is this because they're seized?
Are these the same bolts I've read should have Anti Seize lubricant applied to the new replacement bolts?

I ordered a set of the drill bits from Amazon just in case.
 
The bolts are the cook box bolts that hold the cook box to the frame and also the two bolts that hold the manifold to the cook box. Due to the heating cycles, they tend to get "frozen" in place. When replacing them, it is a good idea to use Never-Sieze so you don't have the same problem in the future.

The screws that hold the slide rails on the bottom of the cook box are another problem area.
 
I was able to make contact with rcplanebuyer, confirming the ability to order Z Bars for the flat side table.

However, the Swing Table on my grill could also stand to have all its hardware replaced.
Everything online seems to show "No longer Available", does anyone know where I would be able to get the hardware from?
 

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Thanks, I'm wondering if I could use something like the Rust Dissolver combined with a Dremel tool to get enough down to bare metal, then paint the hardware.
 
I just went through the same thing. I ordered new z bars from Dave Santana, which are great. I'm sure you realized you needed four long ones and three short. Those hinge brackets I had to save. I took them off and used a wire wheel in my drill to get all the rust off before cleaning and painting. They came out ok, just make sure you lay them flat when you work on them so you don't bend/break them.
 
This is what my flip down table looked like when I was done. My brackets were about as rusty as yours.
 

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Steve Hoch said:
I just went through the same thing. I ordered new z bars from Dave Santana, which are great. I'm sure you realized you needed four long ones and three short. Those hinge brackets I had to save. I took them off and used a wire wheel in my drill to get all the rust off before cleaning and painting. They came out ok, just make sure you lay them flat when you work on them so you don't bend/break them.
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Holy smokes, looks great!

Uh oh, I definitely was miscounting then.

I thought I needed 3 same length (short?).
Two of which are for the detachable table, and I thought I saw one more for the swing table.

I was also going to ask if I could have longer Z Bars made for the bottom rack near the ground, since my grill came with a wire rack, but I would think a matching wood bottom rack would look great.

Where are all the short and long ones for you're referring to?
 
Oh, ok. Yeah, the three short ones are for the tables you have. My grill has tables on the bottom where your wire rack goes, those are the four long ones.
 
Steve Hoch said:
Oh, ok. Yeah, the three short ones are for the tables you have. My grill has tables on the bottom where your wire rack goes, those are the four long ones.
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Would you mind letting me know the length of each of the longer ones? That way I can let rcplanebuyer know when I place my order. Thanks!
 
Phew, they just keep popping up now...

This looks like a bigger one with the additional side table?
 

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I would say a later Genesis 2, based on the lack of casters that Larry noted, the old style wheels, but also with the newer tank scale and decal. Somebody replaced the wood handle that probably disintegrated and stuck on a later Silver plastic one (yech!).

The extra shelf space can certainly be welcome, but it will take up more room where you put it, and if you have to move your grill frequently, these longer frame Webers can get awkward to maneuver.
 
If I were to just go all out, no holds barred, which parts could I get sandblasted and powder coated?

And then which parts should be sandblasted but should NOT be powder coated?

Not that I'm going to, I just want to understand what my options are on which parts.
 
The cook box and end caps for sure. They can be powder coated with high temp powder coating. I had that done on my latest personal grill.
Most of the rest of the grill is steel and can mostly be blasted and powder coated as well, but the cost might be prohibitive for most of it.
The frame would be the next candidate and certainly could be blasted. But I am not sure you want to go with powder coating on that. You could but it would also have to be high temp and would probably be costly. Then if you have the open cart style, the wire rack would be a candidate for blasting if it was rusted up. Again, that could be powder coated, but not sure if it would be economical. The tank scale could be blasted and powder coated, but you would need to replace the stickers on it. If you wanted to remove the valves first, you could blast and high temp powder coat the manifold. Cabinet sides and bottoms could be done with both but it is going to get expensive fast.

I can't think of any parts that would fit in the category: "should be sandblasted but should NOT be powder coated". But some would require high temp powder coating vs regular powder coating.
 
Personally, before I would go all that far, I would scour around and try to find a '05-6 Genesis Platinum with the stainless frame and base your "all out" restore on that.
 
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