BroilMaster P3 Restore


 
I wonder if maybe there is not some corrosion or contaminent left on the cook box just before painting. Do you live on the coast?
 
I wonder if maybe there is not some corrosion or contaminent left on the cook box just before painting. Do you live on the coast?
Well our house there is 6 blocks from the ocean and 30 yards from the bay. I did the restoration and painting inland at our home in West Chester, PA.
 
That ocean air is never good. Not sure if that is the issue though. One good thing is that the grill is aluminum, so you don't have to worry about holes rusting through like you would with steel.
 
Was lucky to have found a couple times to paint over the last three days. The weather is really spotty right now, but I found some calm weather with the perfect temp and humidity so I jumped and got the painting done. I think it turned out great. Planning on assembling everything tomorrow and doing the heat cure. Here’s where it was at earlier this evening.
Looks perfect That is a great start toward a beautiful restoration. We will look forward to seeing it come together!
 
Looks perfect That is a great start toward a beautiful restoration. We will look forward to seeing it come together!
Thanks! I’m looking forward to getting it all put together. I was really worried about the paint job, but I think it turned out well. I guess the true test will be when I fire it up for the first time to cure the paint.
 
Any ideas on how to stabilize the bow tie burner more securely? I have the burner stabilizer arm and collector box that support the burner vertically in the middle, but is there a way to minimize the sides wobbling? On my unit, the burner stabilizer arm is not attached to the burner; it just acts as a ledge for the burner to sit on. Since I will be wheeling it around frequently, I don’t want to have to remove the grills, briquettes, and briquette grate to adjust the burner if/when it shifts.

Also, how tight do the gas orifices need to be inside the Venturi tubes? Mine literally slide in and out quite easily; hence my question about minimizing the burner shifting around.
 
Any ideas on how to stabilize the bow tie burner more securely? I have the burner stabilizer arm and collector box that support the burner vertically in the middle, but is there a way to minimize the sides wobbling? On my unit, the burner stabilizer arm is not attached to the burner; it just acts as a ledge for the burner to sit on. Since I will be wheeling it around frequently, I don’t want to have to remove the grills, briquettes, and briquette grate to adjust the burner if/when it shifts.

Also, how tight do the gas orifices need to be inside the Venturi tubes? Mine literally slide in and out quite easily; hence my question about minimizing the burner shifting around.
Packing the car for the beach house now. I'll look at the burner today or tomorrow as I plan on sanding and painting the lid this trip...have to stain the deck this trip too. Not my favorite annual chore for sure.
 
I just sanded and wire brushed the lid. My issue was corrosion but i believe its because I should have put 1-3 more coats of paint on the lid when I first repainted over the old green original paint.
I'll wipe it down with Goof Off tomorrow, tape it off and roll and brush two coats on.
 
I just sanded and wire brushed the lid. My issue was corrosion but i believe its because I should have put 1-3 more coats of paint on the lid when I first repainted over the old green original paint.
I'll wipe it down with Goof Off tomorrow, tape it off and roll and brush two coats on.
Don't use Goof Off. It's good product but oil based. It will soak into the pores of the aluminum and once there you will never get paint to adhere properly.
 
Just found some denatured alcohol. That should work.
Yep way better. I just spray stuff down like that with brake Kleen. Another good thing is lacquer thinner. If I am painting something important (like when I did the Kubota, or the body pieces I did on daughter's car, I use Prep Sol. There is a new kind out now supposedly non toxic and no smell made from soy. I've used it. Works pretty decent but I miss the smell :D
 
Yep way better. I just spray stuff down like that with brake Kleen. Another good t16843682595577857818426565384670.jpghing is lacquer thinner. If I am painting something important (like when I did the Kubota, or the body pieces I did on daughter's car, I use Prep Sol. There is a new kind out now supposedly non toxic and no smell made from soy. I've used it. Works pretty decent but I miss the smell :D
Thank you,Sir for the info. thus far. I'll get 2 coats on it this time...thicker coats. Pics to follow.
BTW, beautiful, quiet night NJ beach...grill work and deck in the AM.
 

 

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