It's some form of corrosion making its way through the paint from the aluminum. If I have to live with sanding and painting every few years, I'm OK with that.It almost appears to be a corrosion or possibly even a "mold"
Could be. Although, there are vent flaps on the cover and serious winds all four seasons. I was covering more to protect the internals.I wonder it it would do better uncovered? Maybe too much moisture collecting?
Well our house there is 6 blocks from the ocean and 30 yards from the bay. I did the restoration and painting inland at our home in West Chester, PA.I wonder if maybe there is not some corrosion or contaminent left on the cook box just before painting. Do you live on the coast?
Looks perfect That is a great start toward a beautiful restoration. We will look forward to seeing it come together!Was lucky to have found a couple times to paint over the last three days. The weather is really spotty right now, but I found some calm weather with the perfect temp and humidity so I jumped and got the painting done. I think it turned out great. Planning on assembling everything tomorrow and doing the heat cure. Here’s where it was at earlier this evening.
Thanks! I’m looking forward to getting it all put together. I was really worried about the paint job, but I think it turned out well. I guess the true test will be when I fire it up for the first time to cure the paint.Looks perfect That is a great start toward a beautiful restoration. We will look forward to seeing it come together!
I used Stove Bright Paint Prep/Cleaner and it was super easy as it was an aerosol. Spray on, wipe off, dry, paint.Thank you, Steve. I'm going to give a light sanding, solvent cleaning and then paint it with a roller and either foam brush or China bristle brush with this: https://www.acehardware.com/departments/paint-and-supplies/specialty-paints/appliance/12689
I suspect it's likely the same as brake parts cleaner.I used Stove Bright Paint Prep/Cleaner and it was super easy as it was an aerosol. Spray on, wipe off, dry, paint.
It's a pretty loose fit as I recall. I don't recall any issues of the other type you mentionedAlso, how tight do the gas orifices need to be inside the Venturi tubes? Mine literally slide in and out quite easily; hence my question about minimizing the burner shifting around.
Packing the car for the beach house now. I'll look at the burner today or tomorrow as I plan on sanding and painting the lid this trip...have to stain the deck this trip too. Not my favorite annual chore for sure.Any ideas on how to stabilize the bow tie burner more securely? I have the burner stabilizer arm and collector box that support the burner vertically in the middle, but is there a way to minimize the sides wobbling? On my unit, the burner stabilizer arm is not attached to the burner; it just acts as a ledge for the burner to sit on. Since I will be wheeling it around frequently, I don’t want to have to remove the grills, briquettes, and briquette grate to adjust the burner if/when it shifts.
Also, how tight do the gas orifices need to be inside the Venturi tubes? Mine literally slide in and out quite easily; hence my question about minimizing the burner shifting around.
Yeah, it is a loose fit. Seems like there should be some type of device that holds the gas and Venturi tubes together.It's a pretty loose fit as I recall. I don't recall any issues of the other type you mentioned
Don't use Goof Off. It's good product but oil based. It will soak into the pores of the aluminum and once there you will never get paint to adhere properly.I just sanded and wire brushed the lid. My issue was corrosion but i believe its because I should have put 1-3 more coats of paint on the lid when I first repainted over the old green original paint.
I'll wipe it down with Goof Off tomorrow, tape it off and roll and brush two coats on.
Just found some denatured alcohol. That should work.Don't use Goof Off. It's good product but oil based. It will soak into the pores of the aluminum and once there you will never get paint to adhere properly.
Yep way better. I just spray stuff down like that with brake Kleen. Another good thing is lacquer thinner. If I am painting something important (like when I did the Kubota, or the body pieces I did on daughter's car, I use Prep Sol. There is a new kind out now supposedly non toxic and no smell made from soy. I've used it. Works pretty decent but I miss the smellJust found some denatured alcohol. That should work.
Thank you,Sir for the info. thus far. I'll get 2 coats on it this time...thicker coats. Pics to follow.Yep way better. I just spray stuff down like that with brake Kleen. Another good thing is lacquer thinner. If I am painting something important (like when I did the Kubota, or the body pieces I did on daughter's car, I use Prep Sol. There is a new kind out now supposedly non toxic and no smell made from soy. I've used it. Works pretty decent but I miss the smell