Silver C Project


 
No Bruce just the lid you would have to do some frame modifications as you know to stick that firebox on the C so gave up that idea, really hoping this silver does not have the dreaded fade. I intend to fully restore the 1100 doing the wood over keeping my fingers crossed that I can use the black lid from this donor.

I decided in the end to keep both grills stock actually had toyed with the idea of stretching the 1100 frame to make a 3000 out of it and I think I had actually figured out how I was going to do it. I will be on the search for the plastic drop down table for the right side on the C eventually would need the bracket the table swings on but the hook is there would need the tool holder that has the insert for the rod but that is down the road.

Also since I have a black faded lid I am going to go ahead with the Blue Painting experiment guys on the Kettle Club have done the lids with some success nobody has any success with the bowls charcoal way to hot if it bumps the side the paint becomes toast.

I liked what Pat did with his silver the Red lid with the gray tables.
 
Brian,
Sounds like you have done some good research. I am still hoping for an already blue hood for you. The guy selling the one in Tampa is like some kind of estate liquidator. He has barrels full of stuff but only that one Weber. I tried to get him down but he would only go so far. I am going to let him stew on it and maybe try again. I have some friends in the Atlanta area who come to Hobe Sound from time to time, so maybe if I got it I could get it up to you for free:eek:!
 
Jon, your the best always willing to help others for now let him stew. Finally have some focus get the 1100 done leave the C alone for now sell the 1100 in the spring.
 
Brian, you will get that blue hood. It is just a matter of time. I have learned to be patient with acquiring grills and grill parts. It has allowed me to eventually get what I want without over paying. I think Jon works it pretty much the same way as well.
 
So at first glance my old boss delivered the the free Silver B yesterday lid needs further inspection but looks like no dreaded black fade. The burners had to have been replaced and they are stainless not stuck either as not taken them out yet but they are moving a good sign should just pull out. Will be able to use the tank scale on the 1100 so that is another plus as the C had one.
 
So a good day got the Silver B broken down firebox bolt out got it to move then took the angle grinder in the inside probably about 1/8 of inch from the firebox on the nut not all the way through just went around it then my needle nose pliers grabbed it with a ratchet on the outside came out.

Flipped it over was expecting a horror show to get the grease tray screws out but no problem the rails are fine and the screws came right out with no PB. I have only done a 1000 on these grease tray rails they only used one screw does not seem to be that solid do you who have done restores put screws in the other 2 posts would seem more solid to me but got no clue.
 
So raining here so working inside, sanded the crossbar that holds the firebox to bare metal. Had some rust by the bolt on the top of the frame piece moon craters I call it but much less noticeable when sanded to bare metal. Filled it with JB will let it sit for a day sand down tomorrow night. Plan is to get the frame painted this weekend will have to do it in the garage.

I took the entire frame apart and shot the inside of the exposed square tubes with Eastwood so they should be good had taken a file and roughed them up before painting. Larry is right really would have been nice if I had that tube that you can insert and spray but it gets in pretty far anyway.

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Brian, that is looking good. I hadn't thought to use JB Weld to smooth out the moon craters. Did you use the high temp JB Weld? It gets pretty hot in that spot.
 
Bruce said:
Brian, that is looking good. I hadn't thought to use JB Weld to smooth out the moon craters. Did you use the high temp JB Weld? It gets pretty hot in that spot.
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No the regular which is good to 500 degrees I did this on the 1000 no issues and it will be coated with engine enamel so I don't think its a problem. I really doubt might be wrong that it gets more than 500 on the top piece I am doing nothing except the engine enamel on the side which butts up against the firebox. I use an old metal putty knife to apply it and as thin as possible, wipe the knife off after you use it then let it dry sand the knife down to get any residue off after it sits a day or 2 for the next time you want to use it. Go easy when mixing the JB it goes a long way so don't go crazy mixing up a large batch which you will end up throwing away.

I have been using the JB original for so many years I know it will hold up. Also for the right applications the quiksteel is a better solution not a paste but also does not sag for this purpose its easier to use the jb weld.

On the 1000 the grease tray studs were degraded so I filled them and got them back to be where they should be just a lot easier to use the quiksteel to do that. I think I detailed what I did in my 1000 thread. Did not even have to tap them.

Bruce I was not trying to tell you how to use JB you probably know more than I do about that product was just trying to put it out there for others.
 
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Yah, if the stuff you used is rated for 500 degrees, then you are probably good. I didn't think the normal stuff had that high of a rating. I have only used it before on the cook box itself, so I used the high heat stuff that is rated to something like 2000 degrees.
 
It is a paste and it comes in a little tub. You still have to mix it because it will separate, but it is a single product. I have used it a couple times now and I have found that it is basically a one use product. Both times it hardened in the little tub while I was storing it after using it the first time. I thought maybe I didn't seal up the lid on the tub good enough on the first one, but I made sure I did on the second tub and when I opened it a month later it was all hardened up as well.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/JB-Weld-...PXFa92kJwrwfEM5O3U5Ib1sjSBCvPsRxoCKrUQAvD_BwE

It is a very good product otherwise.
 
Guys, I appreciate the info about JB Weld. I bought some of the high heat and hope to use it on two or three kettle projects. I guess I better plan on lining everything up and doing them all at the same time.

Jon
 
Even the regular tubes you mix you need to be careful and when you use them to clean the threads off before screwing them back on or you would have the same problem that the tub has only it will weld the cap to the tubes. I just bought a new pack for this project the other set I had lasted for 3 years then could not get the caps off so just tossed it.

J-B Weld can withstand a constant temperature of 500 °F (260 °C), and the maximum temperature threshold is approximately 600 °F (316 °C) for 10 minutes. J-B Weld can also be used inside a microwave oven, exposed to microwave radiation instead of infrared radiation (heat).
 
So many of you in winter hibernation made some good progress on the C today been raining all week did not get anywhere as far as I wanted but frame being painted tomorrow or Monday. Frame was totally disassembled and all of the exposed square tubing was sprayed with the encapsulator on the inside, I used my flat file to to rough up the rust then wiped with a rag with acetone. One wheel done another tomorrow needed to use a little more super glue to make the whitewalls lay flatter especially above the weber emblems needed to get closer to the outer and inside edges but no matter that will be the back wheel.

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Wow, I will say! I guess what you are doing is taking the white wall off and painting it white while painting the wheel itself black. Is that right? Otherwise you must have some incredible plastic treatment. I never really thought about using paint. That is an effective and practical approach. I am also thinking about ways to salvage letter pieces from really far gone wheels to patch ones that just need a letter or two redone.
 
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