Silver C Project


 
I might have been a little hasty saying the flavorizer bars were toast took a good look this morning and none of them are rusted thru no pin holes or otherwise that I can see yes the bottom edges a bit corroded but looking for opinion can these be cleaned up and used. Not flipping this grill and I don't mind buying new bars but I don't like to waste stuff for no reason either.

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Yeah those buyers are still good as long as there's no holes and the bottom edges are in relatively decent shape. A brand new set isn't likely to improve your cook at all. I would use them up and then buy a new set
 
LMichaels said:
What's up with that one that looks like it was cut?
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Yes it looks like its cut in the picture, its just a long grease mark nothing wrong with bar.

Consensus seems to be so far just leave them replace down the road I will clean them up when I get it done and burn them off brush down for now don't need to do anything with them.
 
I agree totally, Brian. There are things we do for grills to sell that are nothing more than eye candy for a prospective buyer. Replacing those for your own use would be unnecessary from what I can see. Same with a total wire brushing of the firebox. Clean it up and make it fully functional and then use it!

We have seen your beautiful exterior work, and that at least makes sense even for personal use since you will see and enjoy it. And I think also make it easier to keep it looking nice on the deck.

Look forward to seeing how this one turns out!
 
Jon for sure I will clean the inside of the lid to nice and shiny but you are correct I am not going to kill myself on the inside of the firebox. Probably spray it with simple green hit it with the cup brush to get off the loose crud and be done with it.

I am thankful for all the opinions on the bars when I looked at them this morning I saw no need to get rid of them either. This one will have new grates so your not really going to notice them much anyway.
 
So need some help here started breaking the C down. On the right side tool holder the plastic piece took those 2 bolts out but it will not pull out. I was thinking about cutting a piece of 2x4 for the inside then banging it out with a hammer, bad idea?

Also one of the hinge bolts won't come out sprayed it down with PB ran out need to buy more thinking about hitting it with some high heat looks the lid has the dreaded fade but no matter the free redhead lid will be going on it. Funny thing is the right one came out pretty easy.
 
I just spray some penatrating oil like PB blaster into the tube where the frame end cap goes in. Then, I use a piece of wood wedged against the edge where it enters the frame and pound it out gently. If you get oil in there and let it set a while, it should eventually come out. There are clips that hold into the frame on some of those pieces. Make sure you push them up and in when backing out the end caps.

I never thought about putting a rod all the way through the frame and punching them out that way. If you got something long enough, that sounds like a good plan as well. But again, penatrating oil is your friend, no matter what method you use. That rust really freezes things up, even with plastic on steel.

As far as the lid hinge bolts, I had one that did the same things as you and never did get them out. The cook box must have had a serious melt down since it was bulged, so, I didn't try too hard and never did try heating them with a propane torch which might work for you. Hopefully the pins are stuck in the end caps and not the cook box itself.

I have a silver C in my inventory and that will likely be my first project coming out of the gate in the spring.
 
I had to break out my Harbor Freight cheap cutoff tool twice today. Sometimes cutting off rusted on bolts is the easiest solution.
 
For a stuck hinge bolt I used a stainless bolt and a hammer and put the end of the stainless bolt on the hinge bolt and pounded it out relatively easily.

I had put a little PB blaster on there, though.
 
Ryan RS in Mass said:
For a stuck hinge bolt I used a stainless bolt and a hammer and put the end of the stainless bolt on the hinge bolt and pounded it out relatively easily.

I had put a little PB blaster on there, though.
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That's another good trick to have up the sleeve. I had a couple where nothing worked and had to drill them out. It is all to easy to mess up because the surrounding aluminum is soft compared to the hinge bolt you want to drill out.
 
Don't pound even lightly on old cast aluminum. It can shatter like glass..................ask me how I know :D
 
Ryan RS in Mass said:
I only pounded on the hinge pin itself - my parts Silver B would not give up one hinge pin any other way.
Maybe I just got lucky.
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Hopefully I do also, I am only gently and I mean gently tapping on the hinge pin its starting to work itself out. Just hit it with some more PB will let it sit overnight.
 
Ryan RS in Mass said:
I only pounded on the hinge pin itself - my parts Silver B would not give up one hinge pin any other way.
Maybe I just got lucky.
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You did. If the hinge bolt is stuck that tightly, then force from the hammer blow will transfer to the cast aluminum. Basically, when seriously rusted together, it's almost like being welded.
 
Ryan RS in Mass said:
I only pounded on the hinge pin itself - my parts Silver B would not give up one hinge pin any other way.
Maybe I just got lucky.
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I know exactly what you meant. But it will shatter like glass. Much better to use a small C clamp and a socket on one side with a screw or pin on the other to gently push it out
 
I had it happen on a Silver B. Both pins were stuck big time. I tried pounding and cracked the cook box. No biggy though, I had spares. But, it didn't take a lot for it to break. It cracked down along the inside of the hinge flange.
 
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