Weber Genesis 1200 Skyline grill


 
Thanks Bruce, those are both great videos that I have watched several times. I was just hoping that I wasn't going to need the information in them. Lol
 
I am reviewing myself! Got one stuck in a Jr. firebox that has to survive. Donors are practically non-existent!
 
I have used a punch on the fireboxes where the hole was just a round passageway for a long bolt. My problem is a manifold bolt broken off inside the firebox. On this old Jr. they used a threaded opening in the cast aluminum, so I don't see a punch working. A while back, I broke down and went above my typical Harbor Freight "Doyle" line of tools (which I have found to be very good, by the way) and bought a Knipex bolt remover pliers. High quality tool, but the stuck bolt end ultimately disintegrated but never would turn.


For my issue, I am going to use a cut-off wheel to get both sides flush and do my best to drill it out. I have an ancient drill press. I am hoping I can get this little firebox to fit underneath and use cobalt bits, starting out small and working my way up. I will then drill out BOTH holes and go with bolts with nuts on the end. Also use 316 stainless washers and bolts - and some Never Seize - to give me or the next person a better chance when this has to be done again!
 
Steve Hoch said:
I guess this is what makes working on these old grills interesting. The head of the cookbox bolt snapped right off when I started to turn it. The box came right out though because the frame crossmember disintegrated, leaving me with this mess. This is the good cookbox so I will be treading lightly here.View attachment 61845View attachment 61847View attachment 61848
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Steve- is the first photo the fasteners that hold the burner tubes?

I drilled them out and tapped 1/4-20 threads.

When I was drilling, and especially when tapping, there were harder bits embedded in the cast aluminum that were tough to get through, at least on my box.

I managed to get it done but really went slowly with the tap lest it shatter in the cookbox.

Fwiw
 
This could be worse. The Skyline came apart almost too easy, like someone swapped the cookbox (conspiracy theory) before flipping the grill.20221030_161744.jpg
 
John_NJ said:
Steve- is the first photo the fasteners that hold the burner tubes?

I drilled them out and tapped 1/4-20 threads.

When I was drilling, and especially when tapping, there were harder bits embedded in the cast aluminum that were tough to get through, at least on my box.

I managed to get it done but really went slowly with the tap lest it shatter in the cookbox.

Fwiw
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Yes, and I was able to pry the burner tubes out without messing with them luckily.
 
So all three of my good cookboxes measure 17 5/8 front to back at the center of the grill. The bowed skyline cookbox measures 17 13/16 at the same location. 20221030_163602.jpg20221030_163455.jpg
 
I wonder if anyone makes grates that are slightly longer than the stock Weber ones? If anyone knows of something let me know.
 
The Skyline frame is in pretty decent shape. I tightened up all the bolts and it's pretty solid now. Very little rust, and the threaded tubing inserts didn't even pull out of the lower cross braces when I tightened those bolts up. I need to find a cheap replacement for the nylon washers that go under all the frame bolts, most of the ones on this grill are unusable and I already had to cut some of them off to get a socket on the bolts.20221030_200450.jpg20221030_200433.jpg
 
Steve Hoch said:
So all three of my good cookboxes measure 17 5/8 front to back at the center of the grill. The bowed skyline cookbox measures 17 13/16 at the same location. View attachment 61865View attachment 61866
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Steve- I have little experience with the mechanics and metallurgy of Weber Genesis grills, but is it feasible to try and bend the cook box back into alignment?

Using some stout hardwood “straight edges” and a few pipe clamps?

The idea it to get the lid to fit properly so you would just need the top edge to pull back to the right dimension.

I think the cook box could shatter since it’s probably brittle, but 3/16” seems like it might be doable.

And if the cook box isn’t usable anyway, maybe give it a shot?

Maybe make some type of jig and slowly tighten the clamps over a few days.

Just a thought.
 
Steve Hoch said:
I wonder if anyone makes grates that are slightly longer than the stock Weber ones? If anyone knows of something let me know.
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There was a set of SS solid rod grates that I used to buy off Amazon that were slightly longer than the stock ones. They worked perfectly for the cookboxes that were bowed like yours.....that is a pretty common issue.

I believe these are the grates. They are listed as 17.5" long where most are 17.3". They are good solid grates as well.
 
Thanks for getting that, Bruce. I was going to suggest the same one. They are probably the longest grates on the regular market. It looks like maybe you would still have some movement, but hopefully they would stay in!
 
Yah, They may still slide around a bit, but wont fall in likely. If your cook box is bad enough that the Honsgo grates won't work, then you should probably be looking for a replacement from a donor grill.
 
I don't know what I'm going to do at the moment. I grabbed two grills last week because I knew the box was bowed out on the Skyline and I realistically don't think I can fix that20221031_140102.jpg20221031_140126.jpg20221031_140139.jpg. Of course, that box came right out and the area around the mounting hole is perfect. The donor box isn't bowed out but was welded to the crossmember and the metal around the mounting hole is degraded in addition to the bolt being welded to it. I've been soaking it and giving it love taps with a hammer to loosen it up, but it's not budging yet. I think I'm going to try heating it up with a torch to loosen it, if that doesn't work I'll follow Bruce's video. If it shatters I'll be looking for yet another cookbox donor grill.
 
Steve Hoch said:
I don't know what I'm going to do at the moment. I grabbed two grills last week because I knew the box was bowed out on the Skyline and I realistically don't think I can fix thatView attachment 61925View attachment 61926View attachment 61927. Of course, that box came right out and the area around the mounting hole is perfect. The donor box isn't bowed out but was welded to the crossmember and the metal around the mounting hole is degraded in addition to the bolt being welded to it. I've been soaking it and giving it love taps with a hammer to loosen it up, but it's not budging yet. I think I'm going to try heating it up with a torch to loosen it, if that doesn't work I'll follow Bruce's video. If it shatters I'll be looking for yet another cookbox donor grill.
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Likely the cook box was not "Welded" to the crossmember. That corrosion is due to the dissimilar metals being in contact with each other and is exaserbated by continuous heat cycles being applied to it. That cook box is probably fine if you can get the bolt out of the hole. You might want to put a non-metalic shim in between the two in the future. I wish you luck.
 
Bruce said:
Likely the cook box was not "Welded" to the crossmember. That corrosion is due to the dissimilar metals being in contact with each other and is exaserbated by continuous heat cycles being applied to it. That cook box is probably fine if you can get the bolt out of the hole. You might want to put a non-metalic shim in between the two in the future. I wish you luck.
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Thanks Bruce, I will figure it out one way or the other. I know it wasn't literally welded, just seemed that way as I pried a good chunk of the frame's crossmember off of the cookbox. I'm also going to cut a piece of wood to the length of the Hongso grates and see how that fits in the bowed cookbox.
 
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