There's no turning back now...


 
Cast aluminum can shatter like glass. Do not use a punch and hammer on it. I know from personal experience. Some get lucky but if it's the only cook box you have to work with DRILL it out or press it out NEVER use a hammer on thin cast metal
What type of press do you recommend?
 
Tim, if you're having problems getting your cookbox bolt out, take some pictures and send along to LMichaels. He can talk you through it.
 
What type of press do you recommend?
A simple "C" clamp if you can get it on or simply cut them off flush and re-drill. Either way is FAR safer. Yes many times depending on the shape of the aluminum you MIGHT get away with a punch. But as an old mechanic who has seen more than his share of cast metal shatter on impacts like this. In Bruce's case if he breaks one he's got more. In my case I don't as if I did this to my Genesis it's NOT because I am in the flipping business as I am with mixers. Admittedly I have been known to "take a risk" on a mixer as I have spare (scrappers) lying around for that reason. But, when the day comes I have to do something on my Weber Genesis NOPE not taking the risk.
 
Tim, if you're having problems getting your cookbox bolt out, take some pictures and send along to LMichaels. He can talk you through it.
I have tapped out several in the grills I have had. Being a mechanic since 1977 I'm pretty sure I have a good feel for what will punch out and what won't. LMichaels is correct in his way of doing the repair. And I believe I am just as correct. I guess the whole purpose of this discussion is to give several ways of removing the offending bolt. Any and every way needs to be done with care.
 
I have tapped out several in the grills I have had. Being a mechanic since 1977 I'm pretty sure I have a good feel for what will punch out and what won't. LMichaels is correct in his way of doing the repair. And I believe I am just as correct. I guess the whole purpose of this discussion is to give several ways of removing the offending bolt. Any and every way needs to be done with care.
Well, the problem is in trying to explain to someone with little or no experience the finesse that comes from so many years of using many different methods, of making mistakes, and the experience that comes from making mistakes...when to hit it and how hard and how often and when to give up on that method and try something else.

I've been taking things apart since a very early age. Couldn't always get them back together, though. I had a mini-bike in 6th or 7th grade, had a B&S lawnmower engine in it. I took it apart because I wanted to see what was inside, and when I put it back together it wouldn't run. I kept dumping gas into the carburetor and it would run on prime but then it quit. Eventually I had a puddle of gasoline under the motor.

Now I had a length of water pipe for an exhaust pipe with a 45deg fitting, no muffler, so it exhausted near the ground, and every time I'd get that pipe situated just so over that puddle of gas, it would run for a little bit. Come to find out that I knew nothing about timing marks and I had put the cam back in in such a fashion that it was sucking up the gas vapor through the exhaust and exhausting through the carburetor. Lucky I didn't set the garage on fire and burn the house down...but that's a story for another day.
 
I grew up during the Cold War, when the Russians first had THE BOMB, so it was on everybody's lips and that's all you ever heard on the news. I think that's why I've always been fascinated by things that go boom.

My parents used to buy ready-to-eat popcorn that used to come in large cans, like a gallon paint can, but much larger, maybe 3 gallon...it's hard to say, because when you're a little kid everything seems so much larger than when you grow up. Anyway, I don't remember how I found out, but if you take a nail and punch a hole in the bottom of the can and then pour a small amount of lighter fluid in the bottom of the can and then press the lid back in place, you can pour a trail of lighter fluid away from the can and light it from a safe distance...and BOOM! The lid goes flying off and it's like the coolest thing ever! Except that I didn't have any lighter fluid, all I had was the gas in the gallon gas can that my dad used to keep the lawnmower and edger running.

So to a little kid, gasoline, lighter fluid, same thing, right? But then you find out that it's not the same, and then you have a fire that is bigger than you are going on, and you panic and you don't know what to do. But then it quickly burns itself out, except for those black scorch marks on the garage wall that you try to rub off with your hands but won't come off. Luckily for me, my parents never noticed, and my dad tore out that part of the wall anyway, so my secret was safe...until the next time, when my buddy and I decided to see what would happen if you heated up a bullet with a cigarette lighter.
 
LOL, when I was a kid, we had a whole bunch of Cottonwood trees where we lived. THey dropped tiny fury seelings similar to milkweed but much smaller and billions of them would blow around when the trees were in season. Well, they would eventually blow around until they got all bunched up in places such as edges or corners of driveways. We would light them on fire and they would burn up much like spilled gas. Real quick and then go out. Well, we were doing that one summer on my buddies driveway and it wound up going into the yard and lighting the grass on fire as it was super dry out and the grass was all brown. We burned about a 20 foot round area in the yard before we finally got the hose out and sprayed it. It looked like hell for a few weeks, but once the rain hit, it greened up and turned so nice and green and lush in that area that I think his dad was actually considering doing it every spring....LOL.

He was really pissed at first, but later on it was a big joke.

Ever empty the shot out of a shotgun shell and tape a marble to primer and then throw it up in the air so it lands on the road. Yah, they go boom.
 
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We were talking about handles in another thread and I was going to refer to this thread and...here we are! So if you look at the picture from page 2 (on my computer) of this thread, have a look at the thumbnail picture that isn't expanded below the one that is:

\https://tvwbb.com/threads/theres-no-turning-back-now.87905/page-2#post-985292

There are 7 of those handles sitting on a router table that look like they are ready to go, and in a later post all the guy that makes them wants to know is what kind of wood you want and he'll get you a price. I dunno...is there is a need for these handles? Or a need for ones that are customized?
 
Customized! You could just get blank handles and inscribe logs or whatever on them.

Don't put the three slots in them, just blank handles until you inscribe them.
 
I think he did a pretty good job on those. I still don't have a complete grill to show, I will tell the rest of that story later. I had an idea for a different type of table for the next genesis. I was thinking of making each table out of one piece of wood and then using a router to add different details to it.
 
Ed, I think the idea of customized handles is even better than the refrigerator magnets. I also still think that if you made weber lid emblems that I would want one of those too!
 
I think he did a pretty good job on those. I still don't have a complete grill to show, I will tell the rest of that story later. I had an idea for a different type of table for the next genesis. I was thinking of making each table out of one piece of wood and then using a router to add different details to it.
Great minds think alike! But the biggest failing (to me) is the wood...it's beautiful and a joy to behold, but it just doesn't hold up to the elements that well.
 
You're right, but durawood is pretty uninspiring and the plastic shelves on the silvers are even worse. I do think there could be another alternative out there but just don't know what it is yet.
 
Customized! You could just get blank handles and inscribe logs or whatever on them.

Don't put the three slots in them, just blank handles until you inscribe them.
Ed, I think the idea of customized handles is even better than the refrigerator magnets. I also still think that if you made weber lid emblems that I would want one of those too!
About the handles...what if the shipping charge was $25 or $30? I suppose I could weigh a handle and see what UPS charges, but it's a serious consideration for some...

Maybe you already know this, but vectors can be made any size without loss of detail. The problem is not with the vectors but with the machine...what is the largest size panel it can handle ("tiling" is possible on certain signs that are larger than the machine can physically handle) and how small the details are that the machine can produce that the wood can handle without splintering/tearing out. With that in mind, taking a magnet-sized emblem and sizing it to fit a handle is easy enough, but I wouldn’t expect the finer details to last too long in the elements.

BUT...one thing that could be done that I want to try is epoxy resin filling. Have a look at this


EDIT: That really opens the door to some colorful creativity, but as to how well it would hold up to the elements is anybody's guess. That's why I keep leaning more toward engineered materials like Trex.
 
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I don't think handles would cost more than $20 to ship. It looks to me like if they were 4lbs (high figure) and you basically wrapped them in a layer or two of bubble wrap and outer wrap of paper or maybe a long skinny box, you could send them for about $17.60 USPS Priority and $15.80 USPS Retail Ground. If they are 3lbs, it is under $14 for both shipping methods.
I am using package size of 26" x 3" x 3"
 
About the handles...what if the shipping charge was $25 or $30? I suppose I could weigh a handle and see what UPS charges, but it's a serious consideration for some...

Maybe you already know this, but vectors can be made any size without loss of detail. The problem is not with the vectors but with the machine...what is the largest size panel it can handle ("tiling" is possible on certain signs that are larger than the machine can physically handle) and how small the details are that the machine can produce that the wood can handle without splintering/tearing out. With that in mind, taking a magnet-sized emblem and sizing it to fit a handle is easy enough, but I wouldn’t expect the finer details to last too long in the elements.

BUT...one thing that could be done that I want to try is epoxy resin filling. Have a look at this

#1, forget about shipping costs. We aren't talking about making low cost replacement parts for cheapskates. #2, I have seen similar work with epoxy resin, it's beautiful. #3, I know you don't want to feel like you Have to become some kind of manufacturer of parts, now it's a job. Make what you feel like making, and if a few appreciative people want what you make they don't care what it costs.
 
I don't think handles would cost more than $20 to ship. It looks to me like if they were 4lbs (high figure) and you basically wrapped them in a layer or two of bubble wrap and outer wrap of paper or maybe a long skinny box, you could send them for about $17.60 USPS Priority and $15.80 USPS Retail Ground. If they are 3lbs, it is under $14 for both shipping methods.
I am using package size of 26" x 3" x 3"
Right Bruce, they don't weigh that much to begin with. I doubt my wood handle even weighs the same as my durawood one. It's less than two pounds for sure.
 

 

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