Remove stuck manifold screws Genesis 1000

[Jeff Hanson]

Update I got everything successfully disassembled and didn’t bust or strip and screws other than the hex heads I had to drill out of the manifold bracket. I started to clean the box with a wire brush on my hand drill and also a nifty wire brush attachment for the sawzall, as well as a good old handheld wood handle brush, but i ended up frying the motor on the drill and quickly realized I didn’t really want to do this myself. Found a sandblasting operation 15 min from my house and dropped the box and side panels along with the manifold, Weber logo and the thermometer mount off at their shop. I covered the the valves with masking tape and left them in place.

Quoted $150, which is a little steep but I’m telling myself it will be done by a pro far quicker and better than I could hope to achieve.

Now on to the cart frame

 

[Bruce]

Yah, seems a bit expensive, but you for one time keeper, a good deal IMO.

 

[Jeff Hanson]

Got the blasted box, lid panels, manifold, label placard and thermometer holder back from the blaster today and he did a really great job. He advised I hit everything with a coat of paint or primer asap so I got a can of Krylon high heat max black and an 4”flocked foam roller and hit everything, as well as the head of the bolts. How many coats should I do? I used a spray can for the small parts too.

Also, 3 of the 4 the lugs for the drip pan rails are a little beat up but the screws stil thread in, so I threaded them as much as I could and patched the chips with some high heat jb weld and let them firm up before taking the screws out. I’ll finish the bottom paint coat in a bit but wanted to make sure the epoxy was hardened first

 

[Val Deale]

For the roll painting, I had a cookbox that I roll painted with Kylon High Heat Max. It looked great at first however, on the first cookout use, the paint bubbled and looked uneven, sort of like it had melted spots. I think it may have been from a number of factors - high humidity at the time of application, maybe too thick of application (I did three thick coats) and or I did not "cure" it first with a short period of low heat. The grill's first use was on high continuously for about four or five hours at a block party.

That being said, I would not apply coats that are too thick and read the instructions about initial heat curing for the paint before going too high heat for too long right at the beginning.

One thing you have going for you is a nice media blasted surface. That should help with paint adhesion. Also, the weather is probably dryer than when I painted mine on a hot day in August.

 

[Val Deale]

For the roll painting, I had a cookbox that I roll painted with Kylon High Heat Max. It looked great at first however, on the first cookout use, the paint bubbled and looked uneven, sort of like it had melted spots. I think it may have been from a number of factors - high humidity at the time of application, maybe too thick of application (I did three thick coats) and or I did not "cure" it first with a short period of low heat. The grill's first use was on high continuously for about four or five hours at a block party.

That being said, I would not apply coats that are too thick and read the instructions about initial heat curing for the paint before going too high heat for too long right at the beginning.

One thing you have going for you is a nice media blasted surface. That should help with paint adhesion. Also, the weather is probably dryer than when I painted mine on a hot day in August.

Another piece of advice a forum member gave me about the above that I forgot to mention - make sure you stir or shake that Krylon High Heat Max really well before applying.

The work you have done is fantastic! It's going to be a great looking grill!!!

Best wishes and Happy Thanksgiving!

 

[JKalchik]

so I went to the hardware store today to try and find an elbow 1/8 M to 1/8F and the only piece they had was this one in the pics.

The plumbing name for this male to female 90 degree elbow is a "street ell".

 

[Jeff Hanson]

Another piece of advice a forum member gave me about the above that I forgot to mention - make sure you stir or shake that Krylon High Heat Max really well before applying.

The work you have done is fantastic! It's going to be a great looking grill!!!

Best wishes and Happy Thanksgiving!

Happy thanksgiving to you too! I actually did stumble across your post about the bubbles, and I got all nervous so I shook the can for about 10 minutes before stirring it for another 10 while scraping the bottom and edges with the stick. I only put on one thin coat, can says to apply subsequent coats within 4 hours or if unable then to wait at least 72 hours so I’m going to wait and do 2 or 3 more thin coats in a few days. We’ll see how it turns out but just so you know, your post was very useful and I thank you!

 

[Val Deale]

Happy thanksgiving to you too! I actually did stumble across your post about the bubbles, and I got all nervous so I shook the can for about 10 minutes before stirring it for another 10 while scraping the bottom and edges with the stick. I only put on one thin coat, can says to apply subsequent coats within 4 hours or if unable then to wait at least 72 hours so I’m going to wait and do 2 or 3 more thin coats in a few days. We’ll see how it turns out but just so you know, your post was very useful and I thank you!

Thanks Jeff, I didn't want to worry you because I think you are going to be fine and the grill is going to turn out beautiful. Nevertheless, as myself being a beginner at this and I thought any info I could give you could help.

 

[Steve Hoch]

So there are two goals when we are painting the cook box and end caps. We want them to look good and have a nice, even appearance that isn't blotchy. The second part is that the paint has good adhesion and doesn't start bubbling or flaking off once the grill is actually used. Achieving this is definitely part art and science. Having the patience to get it right is also a virtue.

 

[Jeff Hanson]

Took the masking tape off today. Tried to fit the new drip tray rail screws but the lugs needed some more jb weld putty to grab the screws. The manifold screws fit great, I got 1”x1/4”x28 hex bolts with an external lock tooth washer on the inside of the box with the hex head, and outside the manifold foot is a regular washer with wing nut. All ss parts. Also figured the non-painted interior sides of the box and lid sides need some sort of protection so I applied some algae high smoke cooking oil to all the exposed aluminum

 

[Val Deale]

It's looking great Jeff! I think your insides are going to be fine with or without protection. That cookbox looks really nice. Can't wait to see it reassembled!

 

[Jeff Hanson]

Finally got the lid reassembled and then cracked open my box of shiny new parts, and installed the new burner tubes, new threaded ignition assembly, new grates, new hair pins on the lid hinges, new flavorizers, new street elbow on the manifold, new drip tray rails, drip tray and grease trap, new warming rack and warming basket along with the refreshed manifold, temp gauge bracket and the logo. I painted the logo the same as the box with 3 coats of Krylon, when it was dry I step sanded it from 50-80-100-150-220-320-400 and it really surprised me how well it came out. Hit that with algae oil too.

Utilizing some clearance sales basically spent about $150 in parts and paint, $140 for sandblasting and $50 on the grill itself, so all in for $350 or so. Plus I have an extra set of flavorizers and burners so it should be good for another 30 years.

Not bad! Works great! Not sure how long I need to burn in the paint and cooking oil but she’s on low heat all 3 burners right now holding around 425°. I’ll prob let it ride for an hour or two. Thanks everyone for the help!

I’ll work on the cart at some point in the future, gotta do that left crossbar rebuild for sure

 

[LMichaels]

Never heard of that oil. Really unnecessary IMO because as soon as you begin cooking it's gonna "season" up But looking nice there. So did you build threads into those "bosses" for the rails with the JB Weld?

 

[LMichaels]

Was that originally a "wide slat" grill?

 

[Jeff Hanson]

Never heard of that oil. Really unnecessary IMO because as soon as you begin cooking it's gonna "season" up But looking nice there. So did you build threads into those "bosses" for the rails with the JB Weld?

Yep but I’m not sure how well I did, the drip tray started to sag. I basically let the putty set a little then formed them around the screw until I could unthread it without pulling any putty out. But when it finally cured the hole was too big to bite the threads, so I filled it in with some more putty and poked a tiny pilot hole with a yard tarp staple.we’ll see how it holds this time but if it don’t I’ll just fill
The hole completely and drill out a proper size pilot for the screw

 

[Jeff Hanson]

Was that originally a "wide slat" grill?

The original iron grates are a little rusty but I’m holding on to them, nothing a little wire brush action can’t fix. I think they are much wider slats than the new tube steel grates I got in the mail. Good to have options!

 

[LMichaels]

The original iron grates are a little rusty but I’m holding on to them, nothing a little wire brush action can’t fix. I think they are much wider slats than the new tube steel grates I got in the mail. Good to have options!

I meant the wood

 

[Jeff Hanson]

I meant the wood

Ahhh I do not know the answer to that, the guy told me he built the shelves and handle that are on it. I think they’re white oak and he did a pretty good job as far as size and alignment and finish. Should hold up a long time

 

[LMichaels]

Yeah, if it's a 1000 it was never a wide slat model. Duh

 

[Steve Hoch]

How did those drip tray rail mounting posts get so chewed up?