Remove stuck manifold screws Genesis 1000


 
Update I got everything successfully disassembled and didn’t bust or strip and screws other than the hex heads I had to drill out of the manifold bracket. I started to clean the box with a wire brush on my hand drill and also a nifty wire brush attachment for the sawzall, as well as a good old handheld wood handle brush, but i ended up frying the motor on the drill and quickly realized I didn’t really want to do this myself. Found a sandblasting operation 15 min from my house and dropped the box and side panels along with the manifold, Weber logo and the thermometer mount off at their shop. I covered the the valves with masking tape and left them in place.

Quoted $150, which is a little steep but I’m telling myself it will be done by a pro far quicker and better than I could hope to achieve.

Now on to the cart frame
 

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Got the blasted box, lid panels, manifold, label placard and thermometer holder back from the blaster today and he did a really great job. He advised I hit everything with a coat of paint or primer asap so I got a can of Krylon high heat max black and an 4”flocked foam roller and hit everything, as well as the head of the bolts. How many coats should I do? I used a spray can for the small parts too.

Also, 3 of the 4 the lugs for the drip pan rails are a little beat up but the screws stil thread in, so I threaded them as much as I could and patched the chips with some high heat jb weld and let them firm up before taking the screws out. I’ll finish the bottom paint coat in a bit but wanted to make sure the epoxy was hardened first
 

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For the roll painting, I had a cookbox that I roll painted with Kylon High Heat Max. It looked great at first however, on the first cookout use, the paint bubbled and looked uneven, sort of like it had melted spots. I think it may have been from a number of factors - high humidity at the time of application, maybe too thick of application (I did three thick coats) and or I did not "cure" it first with a short period of low heat. The grill's first use was on high continuously for about four or five hours at a block party.

That being said, I would not apply coats that are too thick and read the instructions about initial heat curing for the paint before going too high heat for too long right at the beginning.

One thing you have going for you is a nice media blasted surface. That should help with paint adhesion. Also, the weather is probably dryer than when I painted mine on a hot day in August.
 
For the roll painting, I had a cookbox that I roll painted with Kylon High Heat Max. It looked great at first however, on the first cookout use, the paint bubbled and looked uneven, sort of like it had melted spots. I think it may have been from a number of factors - high humidity at the time of application, maybe too thick of application (I did three thick coats) and or I did not "cure" it first with a short period of low heat. The grill's first use was on high continuously for about four or five hours at a block party.

That being said, I would not apply coats that are too thick and read the instructions about initial heat curing for the paint before going too high heat for too long right at the beginning.

One thing you have going for you is a nice media blasted surface. That should help with paint adhesion. Also, the weather is probably dryer than when I painted mine on a hot day in August.
Another piece of advice a forum member gave me about the above that I forgot to mention - make sure you stir or shake that Krylon High Heat Max really well before applying.

The work you have done is fantastic! It's going to be a great looking grill!!!

Best wishes and Happy Thanksgiving!
 
Another piece of advice a forum member gave me about the above that I forgot to mention - make sure you stir or shake that Krylon High Heat Max really well before applying.

The work you have done is fantastic! It's going to be a great looking grill!!!

Best wishes and Happy Thanksgiving!
Happy thanksgiving to you too! I actually did stumble across your post about the bubbles, and I got all nervous so I shook the can for about 10 minutes before stirring it for another 10 while scraping the bottom and edges with the stick. I only put on one thin coat, can says to apply subsequent coats within 4 hours or if unable then to wait at least 72 hours so I’m going to wait and do 2 or 3 more thin coats in a few days. We’ll see how it turns out but just so you know, your post was very useful and I thank you!
 
Happy thanksgiving to you too! I actually did stumble across your post about the bubbles, and I got all nervous so I shook the can for about 10 minutes before stirring it for another 10 while scraping the bottom and edges with the stick. I only put on one thin coat, can says to apply subsequent coats within 4 hours or if unable then to wait at least 72 hours so I’m going to wait and do 2 or 3 more thin coats in a few days. We’ll see how it turns out but just so you know, your post was very useful and I thank you!
Thanks Jeff, I didn't want to worry you because I think you are going to be fine and the grill is going to turn out beautiful. Nevertheless, as myself being a beginner at this and I thought any info I could give you could help.
 
So there are two goals when we are painting the cook box and end caps. We want them to look good and have a nice, even appearance that isn't blotchy. The second part is that the paint has good adhesion and doesn't start bubbling or flaking off once the grill is actually used. Achieving this is definitely part art and science. Having the patience to get it right is also a virtue.
 

 

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