I will just leave this here


 
Nick. That is a great find, but no way it is worth $250. I have had two of those so far and have paid no more than $50 for either. Like that one, the bottoms were rusted out, but the Stainless frames were in great shape. I would be surprised if he gets someone to give him $100 for that. It is going to take someone who knows exactly what that is and is willing to do some major rehabbing to bring it back.
If you really want it, I would monitor it for a week or so and then drop a low offer to see if they bite.
 
No way, I have 4 or 5 of them. $40 tops in very good shape to new. But they are good Rotos.
Watch CL and FB MP
 
IMG_6145 - Copy.jpg

So....this is what happened when I tried to remove the thumbscrews that hold the manifold assembly in place on my Genesis 1000. I planned on attacking this with a screw extractor (something like this), but the problem is that due to the position of the manifold itself, I can't actually get a straight shot at it with my drill. I've never done anything like this before; is it even worth attempting this, or is this a guaranteed bad idea? Is there a different clever solution I'm not thinking of?
 
Those extractors are a waste of time and $$$ IMO. They've never worked for me. Only way is to fully drill out the offending screw
 
LMichaels said:
Those extractors are a waste of time and $$$ IMO. They've never worked for me. Only way is to fully drill out the offending screw
Click to expand...

How does one actually do that - especially with the tight space situation of having all that other hardware in the way? I don't have much in the way of tools, and I'm starting to wonder if I should just ditch this thing and pick up one in better shape instead of trudging forward with more hardware purchases. (It cost me $30 and is missing the drip pan holder and a knob.)
 
Dave Glasgal said:
View attachment 4253

So....this is what happened when I tried to remove the thumbscrews that hold the manifold assembly in place on my Genesis 1000. I planned on attacking this with a screw extractor (something like this), but the problem is that due to the position of the manifold itself, I can't actually get a straight shot at it with my drill. I've never done anything like this before; is it even worth attempting this, or is this a guaranteed bad idea? Is there a different clever solution I'm not thinking of?
Click to expand...
Hi Dave,

Give the grill a good inspection and make sure you don't have other issues with the firebox or other components.

Your issue is a common problem with the different types of metal pieces interacting. Stainless, Aluminum and Iron.

This is what I do...

1. Soak the bolts and mounting holes with WD penetrating fluid or similar from inside and outside the firebox.
2. You should be able to gently pry the manifold off the firebox once you remove the other wingnut to get the manifold out of the way.
3. The bolt heads should be inside the firebox for the mounting bolts. Once located, soak the bolt and mounting holes with penetrating fluid
4. If the bolt heads are on the inside of the box gradually heat them up with torch and remove
5. If no bolt heads on the inside, start drilling out
 
BPratt said:
Hi Dave,

Give the grill a good inspection and make sure you don't have other issues with the firebox or other components.

Your issue is a common problem with the different types of metal pieces interacting. Stainless, Aluminum and Iron.

This is what I do...

1. Soak the bolts and mounting holes with WD penetrating fluid or similar from inside and outside the firebox.
2. You should be able to gently pry the manifold off the firebox once you remove the other wingnut to get the manifold out of the way.
3. The bolt heads should be inside the firebox for the mounting bolts. Once located, soak the bolt and mounting holes with penetrating fluid
4. If the bolt heads are on the inside of the box gradually heat them up with torch and remove
5. If no bolt heads on the inside, start drilling out
Click to expand...

There are no bolt heads inside the fire box - the bolts inside are flush with the box. I'm confused as to how I'd be able to get the manifold off if it's still be held in place by two sheared bolts. The second one is still in place, but I fully expect it to snap off just like the first one did (it had already been soaked in PB Blaster several times over the course of a few days.)

But let's say I somehow manage to get that far...how do I drill out, and how do I create new threads for new bolts to re-secure the manifold? This is all new territory for me.
 
Whether you break the second bolt or not the manifold will come off. Once the head is sheared off there is nothing holding it. Save yourself a little headache. Soak the second one in PBlaster. It's hands down the best penetrant I have ever used. Work sloooooooowly. Let that stuff do it's magic. Turn a little than back. It'll come out. Now you only have one to deal with. Once everything is out of the way, start drilling. A GOOD drill is indispensable here. Also buy some really good titanium bits. You don't need many and they will cost you about $4 or $5 ea. Start relatively small and work your way up. Don't worry about saving the threads. Just get the bolt out. Now go get yourself some stainless bolts and nuts. Also buy some silver or copper Never Seize. Another gotta have stuff. Use it every place dissimilar metals are in contact and don't worry it will not poison your food
 
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