I found my Platinum C!


 
LeeHarvey

LeeHarvey

TVWBB Pro
Saw it listed on FB Marketplace yesterday for $100. Messaged the seller and didn’t hear back until bedtime last night. Literally as I was getting in bed, she messaged me back. She said there was another potential buyer, but apparently I had gotten my message in first. We arranged pick-up for this afternoon, and now it’s on my deck. It still needs a thorough cleaning and probably burner tubes, but all the important parts are present and functional.
 

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Thanks for the well wishes. Now, down to business…

Does anyone have experience to offer with replacement burner tubes? The OE ones get great reviews, but they’d better for 72 bucks. If it’s worth it I’d certainly pony up for them, but the Qulimetal ones look more than 90% as good for less than 50% of the price.
 
For a keeper, I'd pony up for the Weber burners or the qulimetal burners. It seems like qulimetal makes a better product than most of the cheaper brands. I prefer OEM burners because it's the heart of the grill where the flavor bars and grates can be an improvement over OEM. I don't know how much difference the OEM burners over the new ones make. But I used a cheap set on a silver temporary grill and they were fine.
 
LeeHarvey said:
Thanks for the well wishes. Now, down to business…

Does anyone have experience to offer with replacement burner tubes? The OE ones get great reviews, but they’d better for 72 bucks. If it’s worth it I’d certainly pony up for them, but the Qulimetal ones look more than 90% as good for less than 50% of the price.
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I've bought the aftermarket burner tubes and can't really see any difference between the Weber and and those besides price. I figure they are all probably made in the same factory anyway so why pay more? The only thing I have run into is getting a too short crossover tube on Genesis 1000 set. The tube they sent was for a Silver set.
 
Yeah, Steve - you may not be spot-on with the ‘same factory’ idea, but I’d bet you’re on the right track.

I’ve been puzzling over how the flavorizer bars could be intact (even if they’re corroded) while the back burner tube had probably four holes now combined into one, and none of the burners is producing an ideal flame. Then I remind myself that the original owner never cleaned out the fire box. It actually looked like somebody had dropped a couple of pounds of potting soil in the grill. Thankfully the crud went in the seller’s trash can before I loaded up the grill.
 
LeeHarvey said:
Yeah, Steve - you may not be spot-on with the ‘same factory’ idea, but I’d bet you’re on the right track.

I’ve been puzzling over how the flavorizer bars could be intact (even if they’re corroded) while the back burner tube had probably four holes now combined into one, and none of the burners is producing an ideal flame. Then I remind myself that the original owner never cleaned out the fire box. It actually looked like somebody had dropped a couple of pounds of potting soil in the grill. Thankfully the crud went in the seller’s trash can before I loaded up the grill.
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Are the flavorizer bars stainless steel or the porcelain coated ones? Who knows, maybe he replaced those but not the burner tubes. In any case, I can definitely attest to the fact that not keeping the inside of those grills somewhat clean will speed up the demise of those parts. I've been guilty of it myself.
 
They sure look like stainless. I’ve never seen a porcelainized one that had this much surface corrosion without the edges starting to completely flake away.
 
LeeHarvey said:
They sure look like stainless. I’ve never seen a porcelainized one that had this much surface corrosion without the edges starting to completely flake away.
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You're right, that's how they "rot". I just cleaned my stainless flavorizer bars a couple weeks ago. I put a wire cup brush in my drill and ran it over all thirteen of them. I didn't go crazy but it cleaned them up pretty well with minimal effort.
 
Steve Hoch said:
I've bought the aftermarket burner tubes and can't really see any difference between the Weber and and those besides price. I figure they are all probably made in the same factory anyway so why pay more? The only thing I have run into is getting a too short crossover tube on Genesis 1000 set. The tube they sent was for a Silver set.
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I tried another cheap set on a e320 I just flipped. The holes in the burner tubes for the cross over were too large and the crossover tube to narrow. A lot of gas escaped where the first burner met the cross over. It wouldn't light all the way up to the next burner so lighting the middle and rear burners was a bit of a hazard at they would finally ignite but cause a huge puff of flame.

That said I've definitely used cheap burners in the past and they have been fine. I guess it's a bit hit or miss.

I'd imagine webers burners are designed better. I know on the e320 the holes in the tubes for the flame were of varying size where the cheapo ones were a standard size and round, not rectangle.
 
Is the bolt that goes through the left side of the frame to secure the fire box the same one that secures the manifold? The nut inside the box on the left was apparently mild steel, because it mostly crumbled to dust when I tried tapping a too-small socket onto it. I say ‘mostly’ because there’s still a little bit of metallic material that’s just larger than the threads on the screw, to the end that I can’t just pull the screw out of the frame. I figure I can either grind off what’s left of the nut or cut the screw, but then I’m going to need a replacement. My current manifold screws are in great shape, so if new burner tubes come with new screws, and the screws are the same, I’m golden.
 
LeeHarvey said:
Is the bolt that goes through the left side of the frame to secure the fire box the same one that secures the manifold? The nut inside the box on the left was apparently mild steel, because it mostly crumbled to dust when I tried tapping a too-small socket onto it. I say ‘mostly’ because there’s still a little bit of metallic material that’s just larger than the threads on the screw, to the end that I can’t just pull the screw out of the frame. I figure I can either grind off what’s left of the nut or cut the screw, but then I’m going to need a replacement. My current manifold screws are in great shape, so if new burner tubes come with new screws, and the screws are the same, I’m golden.
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I'd cut it out and get a 1.75 or 2" stainless 1/4-20 bolt with stainless nut and washer to replace it. It will hold up better and be easier to remove just like the ones holding the Manifold to the cook box. I find I have to cut the head of the bolt, then fight to remove the rest of the bolt from the frame or inside the cook box. But then it's easily replaced with the stainless one.
 
Yah, the left side screw is usually regular carbon steel I beleive and the manifold bolts are stainless normally. Hopefully the cook box bolt on the left is not frozen in in the cook box. They often are. So even after you shear off the bolt, you would have to drill out the bolt from the cook box.
 
Thanks. The frame attachment screw in mine is definitely stainless, as the threads to the right of the nut remnant are pristine, and the screw is free inside the hole now that there’s not an entire nut holding it in place. My manifold screws are firmly attached to the fire box, but I’m guessing I’ll knock them loose once I get in there with a wire wheel. Even if I don’t, I see no need to replace those.

I guess I’ll just do a test fit with the new screws, assuming the tube kit includes them.
 
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