I found my Platinum C!

[THyde]

My manifold screws are firmly attached to the fire box, but I’m guessing I’ll knock them loose once I get in there with a wire wheel. Even if I don’t, I see no need to replace those.

When I come across manifold screws that are frozen in place, I look at it like a bonus. I've never come across a situation where the threads were compromised, so when they are frozen on there like that I just leave them. It's helpful because then I don't need to hold the other side to tighten the manifold

 

[RichB NH]

Thanks. The frame attachment screw in mine is definitely stainless, as the threads to the right of the nut remnant are pristine, and the screw is free inside the hole now that there’s not an entire nut holding it in place. My manifold screws are firmly attached to the fire box, but I’m guessing I’ll knock them loose once I get in there with a wire wheel. Even if I don’t, I see no need to replace those.

I guess I’ll just do a test fit with the new screws, assuming the tube kit includes them.

The burner tubes screws inside the box are not easy to remove they can easily snap and cause major headache. You should be able to easily wiggle the old tubes out and reinstall the new ones in the same manner

 

[THyde]

The burner tubes screws inside the box are not easy to remove they can easily snap and cause major headache. You should be able to easily wiggle the old tubes out and reinstall the new ones in the same manner

Those are not designed to come out, they have a groove in them that the burner tubes slide into. There is no need to remove those.

 

[LeeHarvey]

Yeah, I'm quite familiar with the two self-tappers on the left that everybody seems to want to destroy just to remove the burner tubes. Trust me - my burners came out with only a little bit of persuasion from a flat head on the outside of the front tube. I did loosen that screw with a nut driver once the burner was out, but I made sure that I wasn't going to break anything, thus only using as much torque as I could muster on a screwdriver handle.

 

[LeeHarvey]

When I come across manifold screws that are frozen in place, I look at it like a bonus. I've never come across a situation where the threads were compromised, so when they are frozen on there like that I just leave them. It's helpful because then I don't need to hold the other side to tighten the manifold

I was just outside looking at them, contemplating using my brass hammer to see if I can tap them out. Then I said to myself 'why?'. I came back inside, and this post was waiting for me. GMTA, I guess.

 

[Bruce]

Lee, I believe on some models, the manifold bolts were designed to be "Stuck" in the firebox from the factory. I have done a lot of Genesis grills and many of them come with the bolts completely frozen in, but no other rust or corrosion present on or near them. And it is always both are either free or both are frozen. Never just one.
For the record, I am talking about the bolts on the right side of the cook box that the manifold attaches to, not the burners.

 

[LeeHarvey]

Lee, I believe on some models, the manifold bolts were designed to be "Stuck" in the firebox from the factory. I have done a lot of Genesis grills and many of them come with the bolts completely frozen in, but no other rust or corrosion present on or near them. And it is always both are either free or both are frozen. Never just one.
For the record, I am talking about the bolts on the right side of the cook box that the manifold attaches to, not the burners.

I figured most everybody here would know the right way to pull burner tubes. I want to scream at the idiots on YouTube who think they need to break out the Dremel every time they want to remove the burner.

 

[Steve Hoch]

I figured most everybody here would know the right way to pull burner tubes. I want to scream at the idiots on YouTube who think they need to break out the Dremel every time they want to remove the burner.

That's funny, now I'm going to try and find a video of someone doing that!

 

[LeeHarvey]

That's funny, now I'm going to try and find a video of someone doing that!

Don’t do it man… no good can come of it.

 

[Steve Hoch]

Don’t do it man… no good can come of it.

Too late, this is the very first one I came across. No excessive tool usage, but painful to watch nonetheless.

just click the watch on you tube banner

 

[Bruce]

NOTICE: PLease do not follow the above video when replacing burner tubes. I am not knocking the guy. He is at least trying to help others with the video, but he has major flaws in his procedure. It would probably be a good idea if he pulled the video down.

 

[Steve Hoch]

NOTICE: PLease do not follow the above video when replacing burner tubes. I am not knocking the guy. He is at least trying to help others with the video, but he has major flaws in his procedure. It would probably be a good idea if he pulled the video down.

It was definitely meant as an example of what not to do by me, but I maybe should have made that more obvious. He probably got a little lucky that it all went back together and worked.

 

[Bruce]

Yah, not knocking you Steve. I understood your reasoning for posting it. I agree, he got lucky in several instances.

 

[LeeHarvey]

Yep… that’s one that I watched. The best is when they say something like I’ll just replace it with a self-tapper later… and then gloss over the fact that there is no drilling out the old screw shank without probably punching out the side of the box.

 

[LeeHarvey]

So I'm getting ready to start de-crudding the inside of the grill with drill-mounted wire brushes. I was thinking I'd use a steel brush inside the fire box, and brass for the lid liner. Will even the brass be too aggressive on the lid? Would it be good for the cast aluminum, too? Should I try another tack?

 

[LeeHarvey]

Next question: The bottom panel of my cabinet is, of course, rusting. I'm contemplating finding a wire rack to replace it, and I'm assuming that the rack from any Silver C would fit. I'm also pondering the Z-channel and slats option. Anybody got any insight, preferences, pitfalls of which I should be aware, etc.?

 

[Bruce]

I would personally find a Silver C wire rack. The zbars and slats would work as well, but would require a lot more work on your part.

 

[LeeHarvey]

Thanks, Bruce. I'm kind of thinking of going completely open-cabinet, in which case the slats would be worth the effort. I suppose I could find a wire rack in the interim, and then pass it along if I decide to open it up.

 

[Bruce]

If you go open rack, which I fully support, just keep in mind that you will probably want to fab in a front and back cross member.

 

[LeeHarvey]

I finally got into the heavy cleaning process on the cook box. The lid wasn’t horrible, though I’m moving more toward the idea of trying to find a lid in an interesting color. The fire box is another story. I mentioned up-thread that it had some cratering in the bottom from grease fires. Once I really go into cleaning and took a close look, I saw that it completely burned through in three spots, just about under the burner tubes, on the manifold end. I didn’t scrutinize it too closely, but the holes are just inboard from the three bosses for the drip tray rail. On the bright side, I get to put off the ultimate clean and re-paint that I was planning on doing to the fire box.

So, yeah… I was half toying with the idea of creating a frankengrill. It’s looking like the decision just got a little nudge in that direction.