HeaterMeter Hardware v4.2.4


 
Dave Pasma said:
I know I can purchase a pit probe that very well could be of better quality. However, my curiosity is making me want to know for sure if the probe is incorrect.
How can I determine this? Are there resistences, or voltages I can check for?
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From what I've seen there's really no way to tell the difference between the types if the insulation doesn't match the ANSI standard. 20 degrees off isn't really in the ballpark of accurate though. There are a number of possible reasons why.
A) Wrong thermocouple type
B) Voltage drop coming from the amplifier (you can tell by measuring the voltage at both ends with a good multimeter)
C) Some sort of load on the ADC channel that is causing voltage droop
 
I looked into building a HM last year when the new 4.2.4 version was announced. I am just now looking at purchasing the parts and I see that a few of the mouser parts are backordered and the button is unavailable. What should I do? Anyone have any suggestions?
 
Bryan has kits for sale (see first post in this thread for link) but I am not sure if he has a back order as well or not. On the switch, it has been discontinued, though Mouser did have a SMD version of it in stock still which has the same footprint as the through hole switch. People have reported you can set the SMD switch right on the holes in the board and solder it in place and it works fine, not sure if this version is sold out yet or not.
 
Also, the lcd is out of stock, and has been for a while. Byran has a link on the parts list for the 4.2.4 that give you alternatives. You will need to copy the part# and paste it into the mouser part search. As for the button, as Ralph suggested tou can use the smd version of the button. Or you can order it at the alternate link he has posted, just to be warned though shipping will cost more then the part, from the alternative link.
 
Looks like the amber lcd is in stock at mouser. And the SMD alternate version of the button is in stock as well. However 2 other components are backordered and show very long lead times. I have been looking at the Heatermeter store and everything is backordered there. I will figure out how to find these parts.
 
Jimmy Johnson said:
I looked into building a HM last year when the new 4.2.4 version was announced. I am just now looking at purchasing the parts and I see that a few of the mouser parts are backordered and the button is unavailable. What should I do? Anyone have any suggestions?
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You can get a kit from the HeaterMeter store with everything in it, but there are alternatives listed for some of the parts in the wiki. The cost of getting all the parts yourself is roughly $94 with shipping from all the different sources by my calculations. I use the yellow/green LCD in the kits currently, which is in stock at mouser. The 4 way switch I can't find anywhere but the online components site. Hopefully their stock holds out until there's some new HeaterMeter. I'm still plugging along on 5.0, which may become 4.3 instead, but there's a lot I am still not happy with.

EDIT: They're in stock at the HeaterMeter store as of last night, the inventory has been updated to reflect that.
 
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heater meter side works just fine today, but the raspberry pi side seems dead.... anyone see this before?

No wifi, tried ethernet no link light (even on switch) boots up way too fast its as if the raspberry pi isn't even there....


I'm cooking so i can't hook to hdmi right now.... perhaps that will give me some answers when I'm done.
 
check here http://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?58422-Buy-a-complete-latest-version-of-heater-meter


GvdHoven said:
So i've got this dilemma and i hope anyone of you can solve it for me, or at least give me some guidance. I am new to the PID game, and i want to buy a Heatermeter. The reason for me wanting to buy a PID controller is fairly straightforward; I would like to do some L&S cooks (overnight), and to get and keep my egg at grilling temp (+/- 220 degrees celcius).

I can wait for Peter F's version but this project is still underway, summer is already starting and he will most probably run into some issues (and no case is designed for his baby). My soldering skills are worse then my BBQ skills and i need some advice on the parts i need, since not everything is in stock so it seems at Mouser (the button). Given the fact that i am from the Netherlands, but nobody here sells HM 4.2.4 i am pretty mouch bound to this board.

Besides the TC for pit probe (since i heard they last longer) and the black case i am kinda lost what to buy:
- Should i go for the Auberins version or is there someone who can solder (and test) one for me on this board (or should i go for the plunge and DIY one myself?)
- Does Tom ship the 3D printed cases to the Netherlands or can i print one myself and is that cheaper (or faster?)
- What are the benefits of the servo damper vs "just" a 5$ fan? How difficult are these to make, can someone help me on this one?
- Is this the food probe i need?

P.s. i have 2 pi's and i have programming skills, so it might not be so bad to solder one myself..
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I think you guys should start your own threads if you have questions or need support rather than posting in the HM hardware sticky... and 120 euro for a RD? Really???
 
Howdy, just curious if the next hardware version is coming out any time soon. I'm just wondering if I should invest in the current version or just wait for the next. Right now I have the old router version. Thanks in advance!
 
I can't speak for Bryan, but the current release HMv4.2.4 is an awesome board.... I know Bryan has said he hasn't been happy with any of the layouts he has tried for the next version, and there are no real upgrades in store, basically changes made to compensate for parts that are discontinued and wont be available a little bit down the line...

So I would say it's best to just move on v4.2, it's by far the best HM release to date... Did I say it's really great? LOL
 
J. Winn said:
Howdy, just curious if the next hardware version is coming out any time soon. I'm just wondering if I should invest in the current version or just wait for the next.
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I don't know how soon you're thinking, but the next HeaterMeter hardware is still a long ways off. I've spent at least a hundred hours on it now and I'm still not happy with it. The layout is OK, but there is slightly more noise on it than 4.2.4, in a way I can't understand how it is even possible. I feel like I really lucked out on v4.2.4 being so amazing, considering no matter how I mod these boards I can't get the peak noise levels down below 5mv peak-to-peak (which is what the current boards are).

I also only have 20x Raspberry Pi B left in inventory. The supplier I was getting them from jacked the price up to retail + shipping so I won't be carrying them after those run out. Folks can still buy the Chinese clones for even less than retail, but if anyone wants an official Raspberry Pi B Made in UK, time is running out!
 
The HeaterMeter kits in the official store now come with the smaller, more powerful 50mm blower that fits the Offset Rotary Damper and RotoDamper v3, for the same amazing low price!

These blower are more compact and can push the same amount of air as the old 60mm blower, however it is rated for higher static pressure which means it doesn't lose performance when trying to pressurize your smoker with fire-fueling oxygen. They come with 3 wires (one for RPM sense) so the extra blue wire should just be cut off. They are a little louder than the original but you won't notice the difference unless you're at full speed.
 
This is great news Bryan! I've been using this little blower for a while now and it is really nice, works better and is smaller, can't argue with that. You had noted previously that it may be a bit louder, but running inside the RD3 it is extremely quiet, and performs awesome for everything from low and slow to high heat cooking...
 
mouser did have all parts available but the 10v 100u caps. are they anyhow special? i would just put some 20v 100u ones (same size) in.
just want to be sure that there will be no problems as the nichicons are high ripple, low impedance ones. i don't know if this selection was done on purpose (or maybe just because the designer had them lying around *ggg*)
 
Yeah the Murata power regulator specifies low-ESR caps for the input and output to reduce ripple and nouse. They recommend ceramic or polymer but we're not that well designed so I just use the Nichicon PW series which are rated for <500mOhm at 100khz. You can probably use anything from their low impedance lines or use the higher voltage ones.
 
d*mn. i should have bought the whole kit instead of ordering from mouser.
mouser didn't have the 4-way switch (as mentioned some post before), and i didn't take care and ordered the alternative part mouser suggested. which of course has a totally different shape. so i had to order from ebay (only place i could find them w/o paying $30 min order fee) for $5 and $5 shipping.
now i see that the caps are not so easy to source (in super low quantities) as i thought.
how much space is there in the case? is 5mm x 10mm the absolut maximum? or could i install some bigger ones? or maybe 4 regular ones?
may board is still in the mail and i want to source all parts so i can start building it right away.
thanks bryan for the support and the great product!!

ps. once again: for everyone reading that: do yourself a favor AND ORDER A COMPLETE KIT from the shop!!
 
I think the design was limited to 5mmx12mm originally, but the part has moved from where it was so there might be more clearance now (vertically only). You can always get a larger cap and just sort of bend it to the side a little.
 
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