Green Genesis 1000LX Build


 
Sure. I would take all those I could get at $2-$3 each, but shipping would wipe out most of the savings.

I appreciate the offer though.
 
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Yah, aftermarket ones are about $8 to $9. The weber oem ones are maybe double that, but for you to ship them, it would not be cost effective. I would grab them and keep them for yourself.
 
OK - was feeling a little worried. Did a quick assembly of the bottom rails and here's how mine works... indeed, it's "snug" at 15-5/8." Maybe there's some factory build allowances. I will say that I specifically cut the wood to be tight against the brackets. As you can see in the pics, everything is set in place with no screws. Might be wise to just plan for the 15-1/2"... 1/16" on both sides is a no-brainer to allow for a little fudge factor on any future projects. And, I love your idea of the 1/4" gap in all levels.


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It looks like the length would be fine IF you chamfered the bottom to account for the bend in the Z bar --- it looks like a decent radius in the bend. Looks like there would be some binding from it if you got a good tight fit from the bottom corner of the slat --- it would probably tend to pull on the screws.
 
It looks like the length would be fine IF you chamfered the bottom to account for the bend in the Z bar --- it looks like a decent radius in the bend. Looks like there would be some binding from it if you got a good tight fit from the bottom corner of the slat --- it would probably tend to pull on the screws.
Safer to go with 15 1/2" than make this bottom press fit. The bottom is more about storing some wood chips or misc, so being snug like the top tables you access during the grilling process is more important they don't move around too much.

I agree and would be worried about putting too much stress on the screws,.
 
It looks like the length would be fine IF you chamfered the bottom to account for the bend in the Z bar --- it looks like a decent radius in the bend. Looks like there would be some binding from it if you got a good tight fit from the bottom corner of the slat --- it would probably tend to pull on the screws.
Indeed... I've chamfer both top/bottom, which also relieves the bracket's bend radius. For my first attempt, it's nearly perfect and I'm pretty happy with it. When looking at the rescued grills that I have, Weber's version has at least 1/16" space between wood end/bracket, which seems to be only relying on the screw to counteract the forces. Of course, there's always room for improvement and I plan to accommodate a touch bigger chamfer to allow for random tolerances.

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Indeed... I've chamfer both top/bottom, which also relieves the bracket's bend radius. For my first attempt, it's nearly perfect and I'm pretty happy with it. When looking at the rescued grills that I have, Weber's version has at least 1/16" space between wood end/bracket, which seems to be only relying on the screw to counteract the forces. Of course, there's always room for improvement and I plan to accommodate a touch bigger chamfer to allow for random tolerances.

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Nice work Chris!
 
I used 1/8” radius router on all the edges including the ends, by the time I hit with 180 on orbital they fit well on Dave’s Z-metals.

I was focused on having no sharp edges and consistency.
 
I used 1/8” radius router on all the edges including the ends, by the time I hit with 180 on orbital they fit well on Dave’s Z-metals.

I was focused on having no sharp edges and consistency.
David shipped my Z-metal and flip table brackets today. I need to try to finish sanding tomorrow and pick up that air compressor and gun. If I'm lucky I can finish mine by the end of the weekend. Of course my wife has me refinishing vintage furniture in my "spare time".
 
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Z metal and flip table brackets showed up today. I've been cutting and sanding and finishing my slats for what feels like days but I love it! I like to do a lot of things the slow way. Like doing the majority of my sanding by hand. Helps me get to know my wood slats better.

I have to finish my 3 coats of GF 450 on one more side. Now I also have to source some SS screws to finish. I can see the finish line within reach.

I have to go back to work Monday. I can't avoid it any longer.
 
I purchased it from a local industrial hardware store, but Amazon has them.

I set up that quick jig using a framing square, and some nuts for spacers. I think you were going for 1/4" spacing so depending on the accuracy of your woodworking a 1/4 or 5/16 hex nut will be in the 1/4" thickness.

Think I used a 1/8" drill for the pilot holes. I wrapped a piece of blue tape on the bit to use as a depth gauge at about 3/8" from the top of Z-metal. I have a 12v Dewalt drill and impact I like for these delicate jobs, and hand tighten the screws after I get them close. That 18v is just too bulky, but like for construction projects for me.

I too am close, finished cleaning up the drip pan. Tomorrow will pull the guts out and test the valves I rebuilt and the burners.
 

 

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