Genesis 1100 rehab
- Thread starter Rick W
- Start date
Thanks for the info!
Brian O’Donnell
TVWBB Member
Hey Rick, I've tried looking for the Rit Dye posts on this forum and am not having much luck. My sons both play lacrosse and when they were younger we used to dye the heads on their sticks, so I can't imagine the process is all that different, but I like to do my research and be thorough before I start a project. BTW, the Nittany Lions have a hell of a lacrosse program.
Samuel
TVWBB Guru
When I was researching it recently, you use water, acetone, and dye. Add to much acetone and plastic will melt. You will have to research it more to see the percentages that is what I have not determined yet. Best to put all contents in a steel pan before you heat it up so it does not catch fire. heat it up to 200 degrees and once temp is reached put in the things you want to dye check frequently to make sure contents turn black. Pull to early and contents will be purple when dying black. Also make sure you have cleaned and items thoroughly before dyeing otherwise it won't take. This is the info I have gathered thus far.
Rick W
TVWBB Super Fan
Bruce
TVWBB 2-Star Olympian
Brian there are several posts on rit dye on here.
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Those are some. Also check youtube. There are a bunch of videos on there.
Best paint for rehabs by part location? How much is needed?
https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=7403 https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=10505
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Flipping Weber Genesis grills
I would like to start this thread to get some input from those of you that have some experience flipping these awesome Weber Genesis grills. I know there’s not a ton of profit involved but it’s fun nonetheless and some tips of how much or how little effort to put into a flip would be great to...
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2001 Silver C rehab/ how to ( or how not to) dye plastic grill parts
Thanks Larry and Bruce, I have something else planned for the handle and plastic end caps!
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Those grey plastic handles and table trims
So curious what's the best way to clean the grey plastic parts? Is there a way to keep them from fading? Also is there any way to keep the oil from staining them? I know wishful thinking it's only a grill ya know. Might as well not cook on it LOL. I've just saw Rick W dye his which is quite...
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Those are some. Also check youtube. There are a bunch of videos on there.
Ed P
TVWBB Platinum Member
Acetone doesn't affect all plastics, only those that are chemically similar to acetone. Acetone boils at 133F so any effect that it might have is gone beyond that point. Acetone vapor is highly flammable so use it outside, away from all flammables, and don't use it near an open flame. Adding acetone to water that is near boiling is similar to adding water to hot oil. Make sure the cameras are rolling.
Suggestion #1: Read the label on the Dyemore bottle. Notice that there is no mention of acetone.
Suggestion #2: See if acetone affects your plastic by trying a small amount on an unnoticeable area. If it doesn't affect the plastic there's little reason to use it.
Suggestion #3: Bleach your parts in undiluted bleach (bleach is already diluted when you buy it; typically, 8% in water for the good stuff, 12% for swimming pool chlorine) for up to several days if they are badly stained before dyeing. Cheap bleach has less bleach per volume, some as low as 1% - 2%. Clean, unstained parts accept dye better and more evenly. Black dye is helpful in hiding stains, though, so use your own judgement.
Rick W
TVWBB Super Fan
Brian,
I have used the dye for the knobs and rocker switches, the plastic handle of a Silver C and the plastic side ends of a Silver C, all with great success.
I guess the acetone addition remains controversial. I used it, not knowing if it was necessary, but I was careful. I added it to the preheated water, did the process outside and used a portable electric single element hotplate to heat the water (avoiding open flames). I also wiped the plastic pieces with acetone after they were clean and right before putting them in to the dye.
Also, important to use the Rit Dyemore version of their dye because it is for synthetics (they call their version of black "graphite" if I recall).
I probably left the pieces in the hot dye water for 20 to 30 minutes. No purple, just all black. The plastic grill pieces really seemed to accept the dye well.
Good luck.
Ed P
TVWBB Platinum Member
Rick, Samuel, I apologize if I am to blame for contributing to the acetone controversy, but after seeing a guy almost turn himself into a human candle I can't in good conscience stand by silently for fear of seeing someone else make the same mistake. I tried, I really did, not to respond to this thread. I feel bad for jumping in here, but I would feel worse if I didn't. Have a great day, guys!
Rick W
TVWBB Super Fan
I think the biggest safety issue is not to use open flame source to heat the water/acetone mixture. I am not disagreeing with the idea that its addition may be negligible. But if safely done, I don't see the harm. I wonder who came up with the idea anyway? Someone needs to do a scientific study on this dye process without and with acetone .
LMichaels
TVWBB 2-Star Olympian
Yeah, I wonder if this would be a good place to use alcohol maybe ethanol. Far less toxic, not as prone to a flash situation and such. But I would think the bigger question is this: Is a solvent/co-solvent actually necessary to the process? Bruce you seem to be the resident expert at using dye. Have you tried with/without scenarios?
Bruce
TVWBB 2-Star Olympian
Larry, I have only done it twice really, both times with acetone. If you add it to the mix early, it is no problem IMO. But, next time I will probably omit it altogether. In fact, if others are correct, it boils much lower than water and would likely boil off by the time the mixture boils anyway. Maybe a wipe down prior to dying the parts, but I clean them up with bleach ahead of time anyway.
Richard in NS
TVWBB Wizard
The original link that I posted for the WKC that Bruce so kindly followed up on, did not use acetone. Its suggested use seems to have come from people who were dying lacrosse sticks and other types of plastic that may need it. If we are just doing Weber plastic I really don’t think the acetone is necessary, from the results they were showing. Here is the WKC link again for reference.
Brian O’Donnell
TVWBB Member
While I am brand new to rehabbing Weber Grills, I have dyed plenty of Lacrosse heads in my past. Both my boys play, and when they were younger, they always wanted the most ridiculous, over the top, dye jobs. I never used acetone, I never even heard a recommendation to use acetone. Just my two cents.
Samuel
TVWBB Guru
I apologize for the Acetone controversy I may have stirred up. I was only letting you know what I had seen done by others. All of your experience is more valuable then what I have seen elsewhere. Many thanks for all of the comments and suggestions. Thus the reason I post and check for all of your input.
Richard in NS
TVWBB Wizard
Samuel, I don’t consider an apology necessary. It is through discussion and testing on this forum that we learn. Thankfully Bruce was not hurt and we all learned from his experience. (Thanks for testing Bruce) If we can confirm that acetone is needed, okay. But if it is not, maybe we can prevent one of our friends on here from having a serious accident. Safety First!
Brian O’Donnell
TVWBB Member
Rick, Do you have a pattern or measurements for recreating the handle on this grill? Or do you know if anyone out here does? I’m redoing a Genesis 1000 right now and it’s got a Durawood handle, that frankly, I think is ugly. My Dad’s going to make some slats for me out of walnut or cherry and I’d like to match the handle to it.
Rick W
TVWBB Super Fan
Brian,
All of my handles are OEM. I do not have a template for the lid handle, although, somebody on this Forum must have one I would imagine.