First Grill Restoration


 
Nope, just holes but they aren’t tapped
I wish I could tell you, but those screws are not supposed to come out once in place and on most 20 year old grills, they won't come out without twisting them off. So, it will be a little tough to find an example. If it was me, I would look for a 3/4" screw. Not sure what diameter, but if you find an old screw that fits, then just find a similar one that is 3/4" long at the HW store. Make sure it is stainless steel and you will want a ss washer that fits over the top of the burner as well.

Maybe someone else will know the exact size. Just make sure you go Stainless on them.
 
All screws have a tap drill size. Common thread depth is 75%, more or less. Find a drill bit that fits in the hole, look up the tap drill sizes for the various screws, and go from there. I'm going to hazard a guess and say it's likely a #10 or maybe 1/4-20.
 
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Would self tapping screws be an option. I cannot imagine Weber would send a cook box that needs tapping.
 
Would self tapping screws be an option. I cannot imagine Weber would send a cook box that needs tapping.

it’s kind of crazy, the rails for the drip panwere not tapped either, they came with some galvanized screws and that worked ok for the rails, but I’m one short for the burners, I tried. #10 stainless with a washer but it just doesn’t look as good as the factory to me
 
First, let me apologize for my terse answer...I was cooking dinner, I should have waited to respond.

Yes, I'm going to say that Bruce is right, that it might be a self-tapping machine screw. It's hard to imagine Weber doing a tapping operation on a blind hole. So a self-tapping machine screw looks like this:

1600482264903.png

They have a little cut in them to allow for chip clearance.

A self-tapping screw looks like this:

1600482340808.png

Sometimes they are pointed on the end to allow easier entry into the hole, but that pointed end takes up room, so on a blind hole these are used for maximum grip.

Do you have an old screw to compare?

EDIT: I just went out and looked at one of mine...that is a #10 phillips head round head screw with a washer, or it could even be a #8, but mine is pretty rusted so I'm going with a #10. A self-tapping screw with a washer like in the second picture should do just fine, but I would buy both sizes just in case (there's only 2 screws).
 
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I have a new cook box installed on my platinum frame. Weber included the screws for the burner tubes and drip tray rails. They are #10 1/2” self tapping screws. I didn’t install those. I used stainless screws with some high temp anti seize. Weber screw on top. Stainless screw on bottom.

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So I was looking on marketplace for no reason and found a 1997 Genesis. It was an hour away and I couldn’t resist. Came with stainless flavorizer bars, good condition cover, full tank and the original owners manual. The gentleman said he bought it brand new from Ace hardware in 2005 and was confused when I told him it was a 1997. Could it be possible that a grill would be sold as New Old Stock 8 years later?

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Yah, that is possible, but I am pretty sure he got a good deal on it. Some of those small H/W stores don't have a good inventory control and a boxed up grill could sit in a corner for a long time before someone noticed it and decided it needed to get sold.
But, he could just flat out be wrong too. That is definitely a grill build in the 90's
 
I have a new cook box installed on my platinum frame. Weber included the screws for the burner tubes and drip tray rails. They are #10 1/2” self tapping screws. I didn’t install those. I used stainless screws with some high temp anti seize. Weber screw on top. Stainless screw on bottom.

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And there ya go! Ez-pz.
 
So I ordered a new regulator and hose just by what would fit my Gen 2000. Didn’t look of course. I went to install it tonight and it’s set up different on my manifold. My manifold has a larger male fitting coming out of the rear port. That’s where the old hose connected. The new hose has a smaller male fitting. Ideas on what the heck is happening with this set up? Doesn’t seem right to me. The hose and regulator I ordered is #65570

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If you remove the "large" fitting from the manifold, you can then screw in the new hose directly into the manifold. Make sure you use some gas approved pipe dope on the fitting however.

That fitting currently on the manifold is a 1/8" npt to 3/8" flare adpater. Most hoses with regulators use that flare connection and that is why it is on there. Follow this great how to install the new hose after you remove the 3/8" flare adapter.

 
If you remove the "large" fitting from the manifold, you can then screw in the new hose directly into the manifold. Make sure you use some gas approved pipe dope on the fitting however.

That fitting currently on the manifold is a 1/8" npt to 3/8" flare adpater. Most hoses with regulators use that flare connection and that is why it is on there. Follow this great how to install the new hose after you remove the 3/8" flare adapter.

Thanks for that help Bruce.
Also, I followed the instructions in the one video for cleaning and lubricating the valves, but I was wondering, does the inside of the actual manifold tube and orfaces need to be cleaned as well? Just wondering.
 
Generally no, they do not. You might want to stick a small wire down the orifices to make sure nothing is clogging them, but other than that, it should be good inside the manifold.
 

 

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