E 320 Genesis conversion Natural Gas over to Propane...!!!


 
Jon, I picked up three of them last year and one was free. Lots of rust and the cook box was broken on both sides where the lid stops hits it. The other was $35 and in pretty good shape and the other I got at an auction for $40 and was in bad but fixable shape. Those were all early in the year and I didn't see another candidate after that last summer. I rehabbed and sold the two repairable ones for $300 plus. One was E/W and one was N/S. The E/W had the side burner.
 
LMichaels said:
Sorry guys was so busy yesterday never really got to the puter. Lots of running around, bought a different walk behind mower, looked at a new mobile phone for wife, church, and than little guy's buddy over. Full day/night.
So many posts here forgot who started it.
First does anyone know what type of valves these grills have? If they're continuous OP you're golden. Simply put a LP regulator on, change the orifices to proper sizes and grill. As for the side burner, I'd just leave it alone. Those side burners are pretty flexible and basically of you leave it as is on LP it will be about 15k BTU as opposed to 10k at full throttle. But first you need to see if your valves have 3 holes or continuous "slot". Look up Chris' video he kindly did to see how to disassemble. Simply disassemble one valve and let us know here, and I will give you advice from there
Click to expand...

Hey LMichaels I will open up the Side controls tomorrow and take apart the Value and let you know what type of value this has... I will also include pictures if this is helpful....!! thanks
 
LMichaels said:
Sorry guys was so busy yesterday never really got to the puter. Lots of running around, bought a different walk behind mower, looked at a new mobile phone for wife, church, and than little guy's buddy over. Full day/night.
So many posts here forgot who started it.
First does anyone know what type of valves these grills have? If they're continuous OP you're golden. Simply put a LP regulator on, change the orifices to proper sizes and grill. As for the side burner, I'd just leave it alone. Those side burners are pretty flexible and basically of you leave it as is on LP it will be about 15k BTU as opposed to 10k at full throttle. But first you need to see if your valves have 3 holes or continuous "slot". Look up Chris' video he kindly did to see how to disassemble. Simply disassemble one valve and let us know here, and I will give you advice from there
Click to expand...

LM, I picked up a 310 NG this afternoon, and hope to start a tear down on it this week. I wil take pics of one of the valves, post
and wait to see what you have to say.

IF ANYONE WOULD LIKE TO TRADE A PROPANE MANIFOLD FOR THIS NG
MANIFOLD, PLEASE HIT ME UP!!!! :D

Bruce, I must be the luckiest guy ever. Another 310 rust free.
 
Yah, Dave. Sounds like it...What did you pay for it.

There are just no Weber rehab candidate grills popping around here yet....unless you want a coal burner.
 
Bruce said:
Yah, Dave. Sounds like it...What did you pay for it.
Click to expand...

Chocolate Brown, basic 310 NG (porcelain flavorizers, CI grates) needs an igniter (image that - EYE ROLL)
for $75. Needs a good bath, and igniter swap and will be ready to go. My wife recently found a source
that sells those igniters for $15 so that brings them down to a little bit more realistic price. If LM can walk
me through an easy cheap conversion to propane I will go that route as more of an educational experience
than anything. The chocolate brown really appeals to the buyers in the cookie cutter McMansions that are
most likely to have outside access to NG hookups so it will be a fairly easy turn either way.
 
Dave I am sure even though you may think differently you guys down there in MO don't see anywhere near the brutal winters we see (especially Bruce) in the northland. While you may see snow and some cold it's not the same. Up in Bruce's area winter comes in starting in late October/early Nov, and really doesn't leave until mid to late April. Not too much different in these parts as well. Yeah we've been "teased" with a little milder weather but it's down into the low 20's again now, we have also had many of our nastiest snow storms from mid March to late April. Mother nature is a bytch here, and she just won't give up. So we just naturally see far more rust and weather issues, than the milder climate you have there
Kelvin B, let us know what you find out. I am pretty sure we can get you cooking soon
 
Dave, can you post a link to those $15 electronic igniters. That might be a good add to the Weber Parts thread run by Jason.
 
Okay i took apart the side control on my Weber E 320 Genesis and here is the Very detailed look... 3/8 inch on top of the HEX head Orifices

0p4OBwrLzABoecazKWMKmHB1QhyvmG2A_IsYSix37c44SVy8_aT18Fhhyx28IoW-J0rGfv23_JpvUKDjE5czd3pycnSBaPOZSAx5b2gOnXo8c2XSZ3BtCZSrkZ1QcXlR-bqO2OnG6nBaUWrHzdVAu9GP_Gwn5saICB6-ANLwIuJLwroCImM2I4G6nAUYH2ZPC_mZ7IZBT-rvaGTuIBOcZ1K1yy827iRiBbrdwjDMND_GC4SqpBM0WyT4YdzICTg-e1EcZui91wx2LUjp23R8CAOf91pextRmwNKIsTHpQwpumTJ_NxWwL0bzohx8q6mylrXyo3_rZJkjOAqoz5FKRBJhTsWvAgcwU7NLicSjNiWNTtdcXA3wX0ozO-pjpybMZ_qfwwbl1cmJGJbudhx_OSjePHvy8EYjDB2urP128OevJKKqv1sSbSi5WIcxuTtPzMwZFuwSqCkui8su1-YhxUFq4l6pxv7ZTbTvOoYLWBVIR6eBvfO4d3GZw6ZYo3pSQMB84VCu2_tzvKmXu-8o9gzk6gwglSPbFvJ1eb8fXnBUHYLKuCJojXoAA3QL-4DD5EhwvZlHn9f6CUDZ9H0OVSXc4jEgaT3kq5eMS9Mu9SOWvlcK43wBn0lM9zU-xZ7IimSODz0f4WxKcyQRSpkxoenqbDkZEus=w1250-h938-no
 
LMichaels said:
Sorry guys was so busy yesterday never really got to the puter. Lots of running around, bought a different walk behind mower, looked at a new mobile phone for wife, church, and than little guy's buddy over. Full day/night.
So many posts here forgot who started it.
First does anyone know what type of valves these grills have? If they're continuous OP you're golden. Simply put a LP regulator on, change the orifices to proper sizes and grill. As for the side burner, I'd just leave it alone. Those side burners are pretty flexible and basically of you leave it as is on LP it will be about 15k BTU as opposed to 10k at full throttle. But first you need to see if your valves have 3 holes or continuous "slot". Look up Chris' video he kindly did to see how to disassemble. Simply disassemble one valve and let us know here, and I will give you advice from there
Click to expand...

1) Hey LM, does this look like continuous OP... as you say look to see if is has continuous " SLOT "
2) Side Burner is rated for 12,000 BTU...you think this will be okay...or change the Orifice..?
 
a few pictures of the FULL Manifold...

qdTs-UfxuDrIZOKl5uFZCvlMF7oSVaB2BcksvOd5bgyDJl4vGxPf-9u0Elg0raM0KijU9cn0IJvRyQivJij8M9vHVS5CeoXKw1MSk4VxolbmGviUUkdYqsiJZ80u8BfO9WpfyjYo_vwEFSqKD5oQt6oZN_o9vUGfZ5SYpN3K4WV0LKjw2e68k6DgUyXVCPqBJYaohy9tjoX9Ukh8vMiHkoMIt0Ne1NsXEUykT4CVOizytXdhKw19n1v1LN4B0Il_vrv5qIvVQtXbPC1P2vlD2_Zbs_2qgoIdcdDtSAKvaDOKE1ZzS6lf6_bL8pceHXJQ4gBM4VqxxV8vfLPVdfuhRw8QNl1_mLmUCHq1bI-KaRA4NGq6sa0mKPH95rBPrDCYNiziUzlTldu-PcXIdOyvGEOOtoNLpb89fjOczutDpKtAj6wecqKk0Z7vfP0yBUlhr_xBXJLInRv6JpN9cP-Ly96k8GMLdGhkvLoIcBdGmA9mSWEOwtjwDQ6U2lNTacJZedtXlMDAX7eprKzz6XxR9MzMbj_CD6qXQq4P1QkMqp6IKZ5Z8N9Bl3rbDbJqT1kAfeVjRe_mgQhi7QXWYa6iGE-dt55hT99aQJ54YZ8Tz52bghVbCQt8nchrhGlXDMuAll0SJDMFCksb_bE-daJMdOZFXSs3CnE=w1074-h805-no


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the length of the manifold on the EARS ...

Zwc5zSdzbrVJHgGqZaKncS0NxpqCHnGvf0v7T17CljJTfDxtgqi4abt_kBmJ0pQb11l-2ZpbjtKmwtdxB4caHBESpCDoVrY_FIEgTTFWi7YHX_WS9ijZaEkiLDRmmotNChVrj8oLFEZ8fV-czW8Z2IZaKDTBh3UGGeKK8_ZBk3O0vKgXqjlElQajwAYSnQaoPnnelfGc39ad5jQgcEnJf9OMqWr-qEOTqXrX4vyrDGfdKPdLkoT6V4zYCa1HXSxQMjy0FUPA7kZ4E8kkEc49e2Mo9v_EdFrUkaqqRycQ5NVqR8faBb9XCdJyFVSLA756OvzfSLkRV4dWDBRoa2Z04zqg7IQFL1LdwhhTKuqsutRo12HYvP3vVOhbdjcFjtUEYPp74U9CsLH65hlHyytfOBddfy5706Pn3rOFSzSOkGzyIRxw0c6-Hl9c5TAqgfyAJiDyaHRr4DoVjMZKNRfx3T-zYlxSbnRH4QyT9Jd7pzCIQMeeIieXYjfypwYKlpo0ibdOeiikT-rVvqg8-sgF-R9YZ9mctzQzO5zbsVb8WKvGufSFCUKKm-XZUXrtCGTkQVuVOPMwON1WH1antPnDPUqOFBM2BvLcG4_e1pYVmrnfuwTaINqR46QOc_Lo6RJ_qr24t3zZUjy0Nq4X61hDaqqevEAGD34=w1074-h805-no


- - - Updated - - -

length of the support bracket on the Manifold...

Uai7LhfoMwMwU7kMZDMVsPteDCN1p6aY4tH3az6WxI-3Os8SuDACMNn5Hfwi6E4_CwZllHLaRykPFr-5R-qI7XYPpg4yMhq7X8Pm4PEqtiUWktbniGww4NDmiSxW6x3tnHSH74q0lCHI81T-sD7t2pG6pYbLDPsAI8utbFiO4H9qXg6qHrCU0J-9y0cNNuatOGu5T6qgIpl_borsIxE6QqAfMiF8C8cpfQriQZaK4ASTiWtpQKluILRR6zH2-1RbBAbUlD0c3OxMqo7Oo68bBK2uEKnG1QLmzBGadj-X_lovkR34WPDsaHEldHN5qwNsHaZrN_GHm3TFhjaESlufSDLSh6f2f_s0ZKeF1wHWmGfFKxtTTxi-p77FEWRm0ZHhM1dyUxn3gFq0fI7e3WLn3mdWQpWwINUVDpffYTw20GdcNIojr3Ub6M6T2q5Fqjqkdx4N0ZObPh7La19-IeoGYHY3dRXaCUzwu2KMSptSoyQ6e83jdY6dz86HB18ABopZwoHCEumQ-MdbccIvmTyYHnvcFl2S1lgHlCqdznO4RSEcKZb84iNpkOT5gzWQK03IHxd_kUOcHM4Am3FpxHJ47miz0pPfV763e8soU0Y3dzpj3cCBLm3yM2bfECpW--2JQ8VIOGJzEODGKr8OHiCG1n4w9SHGfC0=w604-h805-no
 
OK you have "fixed" orifice or a "stepped" valve. So here are some caveats to convert this to LP. You could simply change the orifices on the main burners. The grill will be "safe" to use but will not work absolutely "correctly". The low and high settings will be "hotter" than they would if you had a true LP manifold. If this is not a big deterrent to you simply buy the orifices and a set of small number drills. IIRC this https://www.thebbqdepot.com/brass-spud-orifice-70-drill-blank-starter-hole-33200/ is the correct spud to use than refer to this http://andersonforrester.com/conversion-chart/ chart. You will need an LP regulator. Doesn't have to be Weber, can be generic they're all 11" WC pressure and all are 3/8" flare fitting as well. For drilling the spud you can get a small drill set like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/17pc-FINE-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 or simply go to a home center and buy the bit(s) you need. When you're using twist drill bits you may find it more accurate to go one size smaller than recommended as the twist action tends to run a little large. Put the new resized spuds (orifices) back in the valves and test. Again low/med will be a little hotter flame but it's not really "terrible" I have done this and it's not unsafe or uncontrollable by any means. You may just find yourself needing to shut down one burner at times to maintain a lower temp. Do not use any kind of sealant on the spud threads or regulator threads BTW
Here too is another link for the spuds http://www.eastwaysales.com/products.php?c=Orifices I think this company will precision size them for you if you tell them what size you need BTW
 
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