Big'ol Beef Ribs


 
Jim Lampe

Jim Lampe

TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
hung a drip tray from the 26" food grate...

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snake of B&B with peach wood atop for fuel

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got the ribs out to season...

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...with Black Gold and salt & pepper.

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then on the kettle for 6 hours.


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then tore into them with spuds, peppers, roasted gaaalic and beans

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thanks for swingin' by! eet.gif
 
Looks cooked well.
I know how that tastes and it looks great.
Try finding beef ribs that the meat is about 2 inches thick above the bone. I have only found them once, it was a good time.
 
Darryl - swazies said:
Looks cooked well.
I know how that tastes and it looks great.
Try finding beef ribs that the meat is about 2 inches thick above the bone. I have only found them once, it was a good time.
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ask a meat cutter to cut them to YOUR specs, a good guy will do it, but you'll pay for them.
 
Jim Lampe said:
ask a meat cutter to cut them to YOUR specs, a good guy will do it, but you'll pay for them.
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I was wondering if you got those cut. No way I'd find any back ribs here with that much meat......not when the butcher can get steak prices for it!

Looks great, Jim!

R
 
Rich G said:
I was wondering if you got those cut. No way I'd find any back ribs here with that much meat......not when the butcher can get steak prices for it!

Looks great, Jim!

R
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i did not Rich... these were just packaged with the rest of the meat...
there's a local butcher shop i do frequent that'll take the prime rib and cut it to order... you pay the prime rib price but you get real meaty back ribs.
now these are NOT to be confused with plate ribs that are cut from the lower rib cage near the brisket.

check this out:
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That snake (aka Fuse) method of fire building is hard to beat. Holding 240 to 260F all afternoon and even with lifting the lid to peek once in a while. I've been using that method on my E6 and I might not ever touch my ATC again.
 
John K BBQ said:
That snake (aka Fuse) method of fire building is hard to beat. Holding 240 to 260F all afternoon and even with lifting the lid to peek once in a while. I've been using that method on my E6 and I might not ever touch my ATC again.
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is that temp range at smoke vent setting on bottom and full open on top? and is your snake 90% completely around in a circle? curious how dense your snake was, briq's wise and your total cook time based on you snake size and density. i'm seeking data for a 10 hour cook this Sat, early, and want to explore options and setups for least amount of grill babysitting. TY
 
Brett-EDH said:
is that temp range at smoke vent setting on bottom and full open on top? and is your snake 90% completely around in a circle? curious how dense your snake was, briq's wise and your total cook time based on you snake size and density. i'm seeking data for a 10 hour cook this Sat, early, and want to explore options and setups for least amount of grill babysitting. TY
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I've been putting the charcoal grate in the bottom position, then taking an old Vortex cone pointy side up on the charcoal grate. Then I take my charcoal and dump it around the outside of the vortex to form the fuse. I've been using mostly KF or RO briqs but it should work fine with lump as long as you break up any pieces over 6" long or so. Then I take out a section of the ring, to form a "C" shape, and light one end of the C with a lighter cube. Easy-Peasy.

You really don't need the vortex, it's just a cheat really. And the Vortex is really too tall for this application, and so the diffuser plate sits on top of the Vortex instead of where it's supposed to sit, but it works OK. Without the vortex, I would probably make the snake with 2 or 2.5 large weber chimney's worth of charcoal. One benefit of the "snake" is that the unburned charcoal is like brand new when you're finished cooking.

Even in cooler weather, using this method, I my bottom vent was set to "smoke" and the top vent was mostly closed. It probably fluctuated within +/- 20F without intervention, which I've come to believe is good enough for ribs, brisket, and pork butt. Be careful with closing the top vent too tight because it will snuff the fire out if it's just barely cracked. I think you need to have about an 1/8" opening in each vent hole or your taking a chance of putting out the fire.

I really wish I could find a vortex made for the E6 (same as the 22" kettle size, but about an inch shorter).
 
John K BBQ said:
I've been putting the charcoal grate in the bottom position, then taking an old Vortex cone pointy side up on the charcoal grate. Then I take my charcoal and dump it around the outside of the vortex to form the fuse. I've been using mostly KF or RO briqs but it should work fine with lump as long as you break up any pieces over 6" long or so. Then I take out a section of the ring, to form a "C" shape, and light one end of the C with a lighter cube. Easy-Peasy.

You really don't need the vortex, it's just a cheat really. And the Vortex is really too tall for this application, and so the diffuser plate sits on top of the Vortex instead of where it's supposed to sit, but it works OK. Without the vortex, I would probably make the snake with 2 or 2.5 large weber chimney's worth of charcoal. One benefit of the "snake" is that the unburned charcoal is like brand new when you're finished cooking.

Even in cooler weather, using this method, I my bottom vent was set to "smoke" and the top vent was mostly closed. It probably fluctuated within +/- 20F without intervention, which I've come to believe is good enough for ribs, brisket, and pork butt. Be careful with closing the top vent too tight because it will snuff the fire out if it's just barely cracked. I think you need to have about an 1/8" opening in each vent hole or your taking a chance of putting out the fire.

I really wish I could find a vortex made for the E6 (same as the 22" kettle size, but about an inch shorter).
Click to expand...
Yes on top vent. I have killed the fire once and almost twice now. So I use the bottom for air control and leave the top at 100 down to 50% open. Never less than that as the bottom vent really controls the heat. I’ll likely use briqs on this cook since it’s low and slow and I will be adding fruitwood for the flavor.

TYVM for your detailed reply. It is very helpful and appreciated.
 
i have found to maintain an accurate 250ºF temp range, using kingsford regular briqs, domino 3 side by side with 2 domino atop... wood flavouring atop all that.
i usually go no further than half of a kettle. but then, i'm utilizing a 26" weber kettle... a 22" or an 18" kettle would/could go longer and i probably would go higher using the same amount of briqs... just not as a broad stroke (if you will) that i use in the 26".
but then again, perhaps not... smaller grill, more heat, closer to meat... ?

who knows.
Just wing it and hope for the best. ****, that's what i did.
 
I think the fuse or snake is pretty error proof because of the controlled ignition rate. Of course, if you the fuse/snake isn't fat enough, and you want to burn on the higher side of indirect, you may not get there. So, the hotter you are wanting to run, the fatter the fuse or the snake, and the opposite also applies. The 3 side by side and two atop should per Jim's comment is a pretty good "all purpose" or starting. The method I described is more haphazard but seems to work. For shorter/faster cooks, you could like the fuse on both ends and get twice the heat, etc..

That being said, I have experienced one snake failure, but I was using Sam's Club store brand charcoal "Members Mark". This was a few years back, and I bought it because it looked a lot like Royal Oak. Then I found out it burned like garbage.... I'll never buy that stuff again. It was about my 5th or 6th time using the fuse method. All prior attempts worked just fine using KF original. The Members Mark Fuse just wouldn't stay lit, and didn't throw off near enough heat.
 
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