WEBER Vieluxe new life, New Year 2021


 
AaronP said:
They do nothing.. it was natural gas and i changed it to propane.
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OK, how exactly did you do the conversion? DId you swap entire manifolds? Did you just swap the orifices? Did you drill them out? What exactly did you do for the conversion?
 
Bruce said:
OK, how exactly did you do the conversion? DId you swap entire manifolds? Did you just swap the orifices? Did you drill them out? What exactly did you do for the conversion?
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Only drilled orifices.. i made a comment about it earlier in thread and was told as long as adjusting values was continuous and not stopping point i was ok. It didn't appear to change when i initially tried but was told it was difficult to tell on an open flame.
 
Oh and yes.. i drilled them out yo the chart. Which the bit was exactly what my summit 450 spuds were
 
AaronP said:
Only drilled orifices.. i made a comment about it earlier in thread and was told as long as adjusting values was continuous and not stopping point i was ok. It didn't appear to change when i initially tried but was told it was difficult to tell on an open flame.
Click to expand...
AaronP said:
They do nothing.. it was natural gas and i changed it to propane.
Click to expand...

If you went to LP from NG, you should not have drilled them out. You would only drill them out if you are going from LP to NG. LP orifices are smaller than NG orifices.

Also, I think maybe do have the wrong kind of valves to be able to simply change or drill out orifices.
 
Guys i bought new un drilled and drilled new stuff out to match the chart provided to me on this thread.
 
AaronP said:
Only drilled orifices.. i made a comment about it earlier in thread and was told as long as adjusting values was continuous and not stopping point i was ok. It didn't appear to change when i initially tried but was told it was difficult to tell on an open flame.
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There are orifices/drilled passages in the non-continous valve spools. You could take one of your valves apart and see. If the valves are non-continuous NG valves, your drilled spud orifice (passage) is probably smaller than the internal passages in a non-continuous NG valve and that might be why you can't regulate it.

EDIT: Short answer - you assume you have a continuous valve when you don't.
 
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Yep, Ed, that is what I was getting at. Regardless of how it turns or clicks or doesn't click, it could easily be a non-continuous valve.
 
Ok. If i pull one apart will u guys know by looking at it?

I appreciate all the help! Thank you all!
 
Someone on here should know. LMichaels is good at that stuff. I am sure he will chime in.
 
Those continuous valves must be few and far between if Weber didn't use them on a grill this rare.

Yeah, maybe LM (or someone else here) can shed some light.

EDIT: A couple of links while you wait:

tvwbb.com

2003 Weber Genesis Gold C - (339001) - NG -> LP Conversion

I got a great deal on an excellent condition 2003 Genesis Gold C for $25. The firebox, frame, and replaceable parts are all in very good shape. The catch is that the grill is setup for NG, and I only have LP available. I have read conflicting reports - some saying that I only need to purchase...
tvwbb.com tvwbb.com

tvwbb.com

HOW TO: Gas Conversion

Over the past few years, we have seen more and more people refurbishing vintage Weber gas grills, and along with this comes an increasing number of questions about gas conversion between liquid propane (LP) and natural gas (NG). In the old days, Weber would sell you the parts needed to convert...
tvwbb.com tvwbb.com
 
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Aoron, Odds are the valves on that Vieluxe are the exact same ones on the Summit. They're from the same generation and one grill was the parent of the other. The genealogy is obvious between it and the first gen Summit. From what I have seen no first gen Summit had continuous valves. Actually I had never seen them show up until 2nd gen Summits and then IIRC some folks on this board with 2nd gen Summits had stepped valves. BUT lets assume this to be the case. Even if you did have stepped valves the temps should STILL adjust just not down as low as you would hope. IOW if you took a stepped NG valve and did nothing more than put a PROPERLY sized orifice on it. It would still work. You would still get flame adjustment. The only issue would be that said adjustment would not go as low on the low/med settings as you might hope. So my guess is you may actually have the 3 step valves and the clicker may simply be dirty or worn out as it is on my own Genesis. Even though I have fully serviced it's valves they refuse to "click". BTW I have the opposite "issue" on my Genesis. Because it was LP and I swapped it out to NG. So I cannot run it on full "low" settings or it will flame out. Yeah I know "practice what you preach" LOL. I just have not had time to go after it and since it's my grill and I am the only one who operates it I know it's trait and adjust for it. One day I will set it right but for now I just don't run it down to low.
Carefully pull one of the main burner valves apart and post a photo of the spool. I'll know exactly what you have
 
Hey guys.. sorry life got away from me this week, but here is a quick video of the burners i was talking about.

 
Here are a few pics of the cone inside the valves.
 

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Your orifices are the wrong size IMO. If you drilled them with a twist drill you need to use one or 2 sizes smaller than the rated size.
 
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