Weber Genesis 1200 Skyline grill


 
I've been experimenting with cleaning the finishes on the cookbox, frame, and the porcelain surfaces of the lid and control panel, so even what I've done here has taken longer than hoped. I haven't had any breakthroughs on this front but these grill parts haven't been this clean since they were new. Simple green, fine steel wool, blue 3M scrubbing pads, and a lot of elbow grease do go a long way to making everything look better without stripping and repainting those parts. I can also report that bar keepers friend won't help the porcelain finishes at all.
 
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John_NJ said:
Steve- I have little experience with the mechanics and metallurgy of Weber Genesis grills, but is it feasible to try and bend the cook box back into alignment?

Using some stout hardwood “straight edges” and a few pipe clamps?

The idea it to get the lid to fit properly so you would just need the top edge to pull back to the right dimension.

I think the cook box could shatter since it’s probably brittle, but 3/16” seems like it might be doable.

And if the cook box isn’t usable anyway, maybe give it a shot?

Maybe make some type of jig and slowly tighten the clamps over a few days.

Just a thought.
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OK John, I decided to give it a try. I clamped it up and actually tightened it up too much, the grates wouldn't go back on the grill. I loosened it up until the grates were a snug fit. I didn't hear any groaning or cracking sounds coming from the cookbox. I still don't think it's going to work but I will leave it clamped for a couple days. I also wonder if I should try heating up the affected area of the cookbox with my MAPP gas torch? 20221105_213322.jpg20221105_213435.jpg
 
Steve Hoch said:
OK John, I decided to give it a try. I clamped it up and actually tightened it up too much, the grates wouldn't go back on the grill. I loosened it up until the grates were a snug fit. I didn't hear any groaning or cracking sounds coming from the cookbox. I still don't think it's going to work but I will leave it clamped for a couple days. I also wonder if I should try heating up the affected area of the cookbox with my MAPP gas torch? View attachment 62194View attachment 62195
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Steve-were both the front and back wall of the cook box bowed out?

If it was only the front edge that was bowed, I would have clamped two pieces on the front edge only. One piece on the outside and one piece on the inside of the front wall of the cook box.
 
Steve Hoch said:
OK John, I decided to give it a try. I clamped it up and actually tightened it up too much, the grates wouldn't go back on the grill. I loosened it up until the grates were a snug fit. I didn't hear any groaning or cracking sounds coming from the cookbox. I still don't think it's going to work but I will leave it clamped for a couple days. I also wonder if I should try heating up the affected area of the cookbox with my MAPP gas torch? View attachment 62194View attachment 62195
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The MAPP gas thing is a bit of a misnomer...read the fine print on the label. But regardless, unless you are thinking about just heating a small area, that's a lot of heat-conductive aluminum alloy to heat up with a small torch. A better idea might be to heat the grill up as if you were going to do a burn-off and then clamp it up as you have it and let it cool and hope it retains its new shape.
 
I'd be careful about spot-heating and constantly check it with an IR gun...aluminum doesn't change color before it melts, and we don't really know what the melting point is on this alloy. I would expect it to be low to keep production costs down. Somebody with a scrap cookbox ought to investigate this further...at what point does it become malleable, and at what point does it melt?

A scrap cookbox could be cut into "coupons" with a Sawzall, maybe 1"x 3" or 2" x 6", and supported between a couple of firebricks. A small torch applied to the middle of the span and see at what temp it can be easily bent.
 
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DanHoo said:
View attachment 62200
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I interpret that to mean that once the strength is lost through overheating, there is nothing that can be done to regain it. That implies that the strength is formed during the casting or molding phase. It may be that the only way to salvage a box like that is to use a length of all-thread (preferably SS) to draw the front and back together as other members have done.
 
I supported both sides of the box with pieces of wood and put that pipe clamp on it the best I could. I was surprised that it pulled the metal in so easily without breaking or cracking the aluminum. I think I will take the clamp off sometime tomorrow and measure the results. I do have a baseline measurement at the middle of the box to go off of. I will definitely post my findings. I'm certainly no expert in this area, so it will be interesting to see what happens!
 
Ed P said:
The MAPP gas thing is a bit of a misnomer...read the fine print on the label. But regardless, unless you are thinking about just heating a small area, that's a lot of heat-conductive aluminum alloy to heat up with a small torch. A better idea might be to heat the grill up as if you were going to do a burn-off and then clamp it up as you have it and let it cool and hope it retains its new shape.
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I used this torch successfully to loosen the stuck bolt in the other cookbox that I had. It heated the entire side of it very quickly so I know it's adequate for the job.
 
Steve Hoch said:
I used this torch successfully to loosen the stuck bolt in the other cookbox that I had. It heated the entire side of it very quickly so I know it's adequate for the job.
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From what the Wiki says, MAPP gas was discontinued over a decade ago, yet they still label and sell small cylinders with the MAPP wording prominently displayed. I think it should violate some truth in advertising law somehow, but apparently not.
 
In any case, this particular cookbox seems very malleable. I almost think that beating on it with a rubber mallet may be enough to straighten it out. Again, I have nothing to lose but I will still approach this carefully to try and achieve the best results since you can't buy a new one of these cookboxes anymore and it would bother me to have to scrap it since it it is in remarkable condition besides it's fatal (maybe) flaw.
 
Ed P said:
From what the Wiki says, MAPP gas was discontinued over a decade ago, yet they still label and sell small cylinders with the MAPP wording prominently displayed. I think it should violate some truth in advertising law somehow, but apparently not.
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I have read that as well, but assume that the current version of it burns hotter than the standard propane.
 
Steve Hoch said:
In any case, this particular cookbox seems very malleable. I almost think that beating on it with a rubber mallet may be enough to straighten it out. Again, I have nothing to lose but I will still approach this carefully to try and achieve the best results since you can't buy a new one of these cookboxes anymore and it would bother me to have to scrap it since it it is in remarkable condition besides it's fatal (maybe) flaw.
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But the real question is, will it retain its new shape over time, or will it revert?
 
Steve Hoch said:
I have read that as well, but assume that the current version of it burns hotter than the standard propane.
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Yeah, we'll go with that. The torch head makes a big difference in the amount of heat these small torches put out. It took me a very, very long time to break down and buy one of these, but it makes a big difference in the useability of the torch as well as burning hotter. They don't go down in price very much, but maybe with Black Friday coming up...

 
Ed P said:
But the real question is, will it retain its new shape over time, or will it revert?
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Of course that's the real question, we will know more tomorrow. If I take the clamp off and it springs right back to it's bowed out measurement then it's back to the drawing board!
 
Ed P said:
Yeah, we'll go with that. The torch head makes a big difference in the amount of heat these small torches put out. It took me a very, very long time to break down and buy one of these, but it makes a big difference in the useability of the torch as well as burning hotter. They don't go down in price very much, but maybe with Black Friday coming up...

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That's the one I have. I have been doing my own plumbing for over twenty years and I learned from a pro not to skimp on your torch.
 
I would think for this process that clamping it in a position that is a little beyond your desired outcome would yeild the final results you are looking for. If the aluminum does form back after the clamping, it likely will spring back some from where it was clamped.
 
Bruce is correct (as always). I have squeezed many fireboxes back into shape (no heat) and some sat a while before being sold and some had a little spring back, but most kept their shape pretty well. The only caveat being I only used 1 of them (Q320).
 
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