Weber Genesis 1200 Skyline grill


 
Ed, yours might have extended all the way through the bracket under the shelf if it didn’t have the swaging on it like Steve’s. This should work as the critical length is between the two bends. I can always adjust and cut the ends as needed.
 
Ed P said:
Interesting that Steve's is 1" shorter than mine on the 11" side. Shouldn't matter, though.
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Maybe I shouldn't have measured the "freak" rod. I should have known there was probably something else different about it. It did work fine on the grill I took it from though.
 
Another couple of things I found interesting...I was thinking that slider assy. might have been assembled by the purchaser, but looking at the owner's manual, the grill was apparently shipped assembled.

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Even the replacement swing table parts were pre-assembled.

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Steve Hoch said:
Maybe I shouldn't have measured the "freak" rod. I should have known there was probably something else different about it. It did work fine on the grill I took it from though.
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I just don't think it matters...I think that was just a belt-and-suspenders thing on Weber's behalf, to ensure customer satisfaction (kudos, Weber!) It must have been more economical to make the prop rod 1" longer than swage a nub in that specific location, but like Richard says, bend it first, then cut to length. Probably the hardest part will be keeping the bends in the same plane.
 
Ed P said:
Another couple of things I found interesting...I was thinking that slider assy. might have been assembled by the purchaser, but looking at the owner's manual, the grill was apparently shipped assembled.

View attachment 62575

Even the replacement swing table parts were pre-assembled.

View attachment 62574
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You were still able to buy the rod that Richard needs up until about a year ago. I remember that because I contemplated buying one for platinum series restoration.
 
Steve Hoch said:
That's what I was thinking as well. I'm almost positive I wouldn't be able to do it without a metal brake. I hope Richard shows us what he comes up with.
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Making a simple bending jig for a couple of bends in 1/4" rod would be easy enough if he has some scrap steel laying around, or a guy could heat it up and bend it. Allowing for bend setback and keeping the center-to-center distance between bends is where the trick comes in.

www.thefabricator.com

The basics of applying bend functions

Why calculate values such as bend allowance, outside setback, and bend deductions? Because sometimes you will need to work your way around a bend on a print, and you may not have all the information you need to complete a flat pattern.
www.thefabricator.com www.thefabricator.com
 
DanHoo said:
Use 3 pieces of iron pipe. Put the steel in the pipe pieces and bend it on a concrete garage floor
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The bend radius needs to be tight enough to minimize the offset between table and slider, no matter how you do it. Also, if you plan on installing the plastic slider after the rod end is swaged, make sure the slider will go around the bend radius.


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Steve Hoch said:
That's what I was thinking as well. I'm almost positive I wouldn't be able to do it without a metal brake. I hope Richard shows us what he comes up with.
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Steve, I have access to a welder but not acetylene torches so might try using three pieces and welding them together. If not I will probably get a local welding shop here to heat and bend it for me. Being in Canada most places I could order this part from in the US won’t ship here or if they do the cost is prohibitive. Thanks again folks. The tips and advice are helpful for sure.
 
Richard in NS said:
Steve, I have access to a welder but not acetylene torches so might try using three pieces and welding them together. If not I will probably get a local welding shop here to heat and bend it for me. Being in Canada most places I could order this part from in the US won’t ship here or if they do the cost is prohibitive. Thanks again folks. The tips and advice are helpful for sure.
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An easy way to do it with a welder and an angle grinder would be to notch the rod on opposite sides 15.75" apart with a grinding disk, make your bends, then weld up the notches.
 
Richard in NS said:
Steve, I have access to a welder but not acetylene torches so might try using three pieces and welding them together. If not I will probably get a local welding shop here to heat and bend it for me. Being in Canada most places I could order this part from in the US won’t ship here or if they do the cost is prohibitive. Thanks again folks. The tips and advice are helpful for sure.
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I'm sure you will get it figured out and I wasn't even going to suggest buying a new one. I already knew they were NLA.
 
LMichaels said:
The fade on those lids and such is not like faded paint on an old car where you can buff it out and bring the shine back. It's deeper than that. All you can do at best is "mask" it
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When you say 'mask it'
Is there a particular way to do that.. or a product to use??

I have a faded black charcoal kettle lid that looks amazing and shiny when it's WET!
But the second it dries.. ugh...

There has to be something I can shine it up with to do exactly that.. mask it haha

I don't expect it to stay nice looking even if there was.. something that could be reapplied every now and then..
Like re varnishing faded timber..
(This isn't a kettle that I plan to be using)
 
There is really nothing you can do to take away the "Weber Fade" on a permanent basis. Wiping it with oil or shining it with auto wax will make it look like does with the water but it will go away after a cook or two. Many people have tried many different solutions, but I have not seen a suitable solution yet.
 
Bruce said:
There is really nothing you can do to take away the "Weber Fade" on a permanent basis. Wiping it with oil or shining it with auto wax will make it look like does with the water but it will go away after a cook or two. Many people have tried many different solutions, but I have not seen a suitable solution yet.
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Unfortunately, what Bruce said has been my experience as well. I've tried everything I could think of to bring back the shine on the porcelain. If you don't plan on using the grill then automotive wax does a pretty good job of shining it up, it may take a couple of coats though.
 
Ask a local auto paint shop how much they'll charge you to repaint the kettle - if they'll do it. Then ask for their color selection chart.

Retracted. See @LMichaels response below.
 
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An auto paint shop would not use high heat paint. So anything they put on a kettle will burn right off. Honestly Ahnika you can wipe it down like some have said with cooking oil, (well any non toxic oil) or try to use wax on it. But it's only temporary at best. Unlike faded automotive paint where the fade is only a loss of the top portion and can be "buffed" off, the grills are Porcelain coated and the fade is down deep in the actual color not in the finish
 
LMichaels said:
An auto paint shop would not use high heat paint. So anything they put on a kettle will burn right off. Honestly Ahnika you can wipe it down like some have said with cooking oil, (well any non toxic oil) or try to use wax on it. But it's only temporary at best. Unlike faded automotive paint where the fade is only a loss of the top portion and can be "buffed" off, the grills are Porcelain coated and the fade is down deep in the actual color not in the finish
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Thanks for that 🥲
 
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