Weber 1200 NG to LPG


 
Well, if you are counting on rust to hold the thing together, it is a lost cause. Any rust left on there is only going to continue to eat away at the metal and it will cause breaches in the paint letting in more water. It is like cancer, if you don't get it all, it will just come back in short order.
Rather than "sanding" them, I would use a wire wheel on a drill or angle grinder to clean them up. Short of that, you need new (better) ones.
 
Bruce said:
Well, if you are counting on rust to hold the thing together, it is a lost cause. Any rust left on there is only going to continue to eat away at the metal and it will cause breaches in the paint letting in more water. It is like cancer, if you don't get it all, it will just come back in short order.
Rather than "sanding" them, I would use a wire wheel on a drill or angle grinder to clean them up. Short of that, you need new (better) ones.
Click to expand...

got it. I’ll leave these in place and then see about making new aluminum ones when they fail. The top shelf ones are fine, it’s the bottom shelf ones under grill that are in bad shape.

From what I’ve seen here, combining two L brackets is the way to go. Honestly I wouldn’t mind replacing wire a wire shelf, but maybe I’ll feel differently once the wood is in.
 
If you hit them with some POR15 they may be solid enough to hold up. But it's expensive material so it may actually be cheaper to replace them
 
Well I just found this on the street. Remotely sensible to try to cut and shape it?
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    278.2 KB · Views: 15
Probably not. You can buy aluminum Z bar stock and cut it to length. Or you can buy SS z bars ready to go from RCPlanebuyer. Or you can find someone willing to sell you some.
 
Bruce said:
Probably not. You can buy aluminum Z bar stock and cut it to length. Or you can buy SS z bars ready to go from RCPlanebuyer. Or you can find someone willing to sell you some.
Click to expand...

z bar stock? I just saw the thread on combining Ls. Will search more.
 
Thinking about getting a neighbour to route out the handlebar.. I have the old wood one for guide. Ran out of cedar for the base and the z bars are pretty rusty... so will check that out too.
 

Attachments

  • 187B8F40-59FE-4529-A2C4-88852144D5F9.jpeg
    187B8F40-59FE-4529-A2C4-88852144D5F9.jpeg
    197.5 KB · Views: 9
I took a look at McMaster, which will end up pricey shipped, and called metal supermarkets in Canada which didn’t sell a z.

options:
1)Leave z brackets painted. Probably good for many more years

2) grind brackets. Will lose part of the long part but should be enough to make new screw holes closer to the end.

3) get an L bracket and make longer bars that go end to end on the frame. I don’t think this will look amazing.

I’m leaning towards #1.
 
Mike Tee said:
And a critical question. Wood handle is crazy hot. Why? Anything to do about this?
Click to expand...
What are you considering crazy hot? They will get hot. Sometimes quite hot to the touch. Has the grill been modified? Is the regulator, and manifold correct for the grill? Did someone try to do a gas conversion?
 
Kind of my thoughts. If you cook on HI for a long time, the handle will get pretty hot. I cannot remember not being able to use it to open the lid under those circumstances though. How hot is the lid thermometer showing? If it is over 600, it might have a problem such as Larry alluded to.
 
These are good points. I baked my first bread on the bbq. It was around 525 for half an hour.

The front and sides of wood were manageable, but side closest to bbq was very hot.

As for the grill, assuming the thermometer is accurate - it gets above 550 very quickly. I don’t know what if anything to read into that. I just turned it on from cold, using only low. Will see what temp I get.

As for the manifold - the serial number says it’s LP, so I feel it’s unlikely that any ‘conversion’ was done - but I have no way of being 100% sure. To my eye the orifices were smaller than the NG manifold.

Edit: I didn’t get all the rust of the z bars, but I did scrape and wire brush them down again to try to get a better paint job.

Edit: Bouncing between 400-420 on low. Now 430. 13 minutes later 480.
 
Last edited:
Are the temp and or the regulator a red flag? Assuming the thermometer works, that seems hot to me. I can flip in an old thermometer.
 
Almost 500 with all burners on low seems high to me. Try putting the thermometer in a boiling pot of water. It should read right at 212. If not, the thermometer is likely not going be accurate in the 500 degree range either.
 
Slightly above test. Held thermometer in water closer to top so as not to pick up the burner heat.

Interestingly my ‘spare’ thermometer is broken. I never thought to test in boiling water. So simple it’s genius.
 

Attachments

  • 94743F69-D55A-4D60-814A-B117B55464F3.jpeg
    94743F69-D55A-4D60-814A-B117B55464F3.jpeg
    81.7 KB · Views: 7
You must log in or register to reply here.

 

Back
Top