Weber 1200 NG to LPG

[Mike Tee]

I changed the orifices. No change. Then I changed the tops of the jets on a whim - more to see if I had messed something up when I took them off. Now all 3 burners work on low. Super odd.

I also realized the jets don’t have the protective rubber on top - so they are somewhat rusted on the outside. I’ve thrown some on, but is this problematic? Something to steal from the NG?

edit: orifices were clear.

edit: as far as I know these are factory orifices, but given that the elbow was cracked, the jet covers are gone, and the screws are missing from the burner cover, anything is possible.

 

[Mike Tee]

New burners from weber. Centre burner design is smarter. But heat is not even. Hotter in front and on left side.

I bought a high heat matte black spray paint for the table sides and manifold. Do I sand these down? What’s the best practice?

 

[LMichaels]

Flame patterns look fine. Some temp variation is unavoidable. So many things can contribute to that. It's far more than how the flames "look"

 

[Mike Tee]

Flame patterns look fine. Some temp variation is unavoidable. So many things can contribute to that. It's far more than how the flames "look"

Thanks. Grilled chicken on them to test heat. But didn't do a toast test.

 

[Mike Tee]

Well, I got some leftover cedar to clean up the 1000. It looks so good I’m gonna do the grill I’m keeping.

red or white cedar preferred? Both available and similarly priced.

 

[Bruce]

Red usually is much prettier wood if you can find pieces with the nice red wood grain in it.

 

[Mike Tee]

Red usually is much prettier wood if you can find pieces with the nice red wood grain in it.

Shoot, I just paid for white! I’m sure it will be great.

 

[Bruce]

Yah, either way Cedar is a good choice simply due to its natural ability to resist rotting.

 

[Richard in NS]

Mike, you can always stain the white to get the colour you want. Since red is hard to get and expensive here, that is what I do.

 

[Mike Tee]

I was planning to use teak oil and then varethane.

I read about spar urethane here but the paint guy said that it would not apply on top of another treatment. Any recommendations?

 

[J Grotz]

If you are using teak oil, I don’t think you want to put a film finish (like spar varnish) on top of that. I think you use one or the other.

Look up Osmo UV protection oil or Flood CWF-UV if you are looking for a teak oil like product that offers more protection. Or use the spar varnish on bare wood.

 

[Bruce]

I agree with J Grotz. I put Teak on my personal 1000. It is a good practical solution. Good durable protective finish, but not really pretty. But, I really don't think any kind of Urethane would do good on top of it.

 

[Mike Tee]

If you are using teak oil, I don’t think you want to put a film finish (like spar varnish) on top of that. I think you use one or the other.

I agree with J Grotz. I put Teak on my personal 1000. It is a good practical solution. Good durable protective finish, but not really pretty. But, I really don't think any kind of Urethane would do good on top of it.

How does teak oil alone handle grease, snow and rain? Definitely much easier and I can return the $30 varathane.

 

[Mike Tee]

Update: my neighbour has a bunch of tung oil and tells me to stop overthinking it.

 

[Mike Tee]

Update.

 

[Mike Tee]

 

[Bruce]

Slats look great. Those Z bars are pretty rusty, but should clean up with some work and be just fine.

 

[Mike Tee]

Thanks! This is so fun. It’s bedtime but here I am spray painting.

 

[Bruce]

You are not spary painting over rust are you?

 

[Mike Tee]

You are not spary painting over rust are you?

Yes. Is that bad? I sanded the rust but not completely off, I don’t think there would be enough metal left.