Weber 1200 NG to LPG


 
Mike Tee said:
Centre of grill, thermometer resting on grate, so temp is slightly above grate level.

Low = 400 Weber=425
Medium = 525 Weber=500
High = 575ish Weber=550

Does this range seem reasonable? I can get lower by using 1-2 burners.

For reference it’s 15C outside vs close to 30C when I got the hot handle, which I didn’t get today. The sound from the tank varied a bit, sometimes louder sometimes quieter. I’ve never paid attention in the past to see if this is ‘normal’.

Clearly the thermometer is garbage. Useful only vaguely directionally even. Lee Valley sells a manual grill level thermometer.
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Hi Mike ,
It might be better to reference the ambient temp in Fahrenheit rather than Celius so all can understand, I am just down the street from you and I get confused about Celsius and I still use Fahrenheit for all my references.
 
Some of us "Mericuns" understand celcius LOL Answer to your question is seems a bit high given the ambient you posted. If you were in the 28C range I would say perfectly normal. However a caveat is there is no exact science here. Regulators can vary slightly, there is a tolerance in valves and burners and so on. So while it's on the high side, it's not outrageously high either. I have found that on LP these grills tend to run a bit higher on low/med settings than on NG. I attribute this to the much higher pressures LP operates at. Though when running pedal to the metal they will run identical
 
Tried again on low. 16C instead of 15c, so almost the same.

Temp=450, Weber=445.

Back burner off, thermometer centre: temp 420, Weber=390
 
Try one burner on. Place the thermo opposite the running burner. I.E. if front burner on place thermo on back and vice' verse'
 
Results are in
W=Weber, T=thermometer
I left them in order of observation.

Front high at back
W340
T310

Back high at front
W350
T300

Back low at front
W260
T230

Front low on back
W240
T210
 
Looks like you can estimate your lid thermometer to be about 30 degrees higher than grate temp when you are in the 200-350 range.
 
So my overall sense is that the grill is running a little hot. Now that I know what’s what it’s okay. Maybe caused by regulator, maybe by something else.
 
Unless you are having trouble getting the temps low enough for some cooks, I would consider it a bonus. But, I would also caution you on letting it run full tilt without keeping an eye on it.
 
Bruce said:
Unless you are having trouble getting the temps low enough for some cooks, I would consider it a bonus. But, I would also caution you on letting it run full tilt without keeping an eye on it.
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Makes sense. Thanks again to you, Larry and other folks for their help.
 
It is running a touch hot all the way around. I would estimate in the 30 to 40 deg F range. Nothing awful. If you know it you can work with it
 
A few more questions.

#1 is removing and painting sides of hood pretty easy? It will look nice. The note I've seen here is not to sand too much in order to leave texture.

#2 I have 000 steel wool. Is it safe to use on hood, or should I pick up 0000?

#3 There is very minor rust on the frame. Is there a cue when this is serious enough to deal with?

#4 I got some tung oil on the side table z bracket. Any way to remove?

#5 In order to get the Z brackets on the bottom right to sit flat, I had to loosen wood on two corners. Anything else I can do? I don't think it will bother me, but seems weird. I will replace these eventually, but for the next couple years at least will keep using these brackets.

#6 Bruce -- I saw that you routed a redhead handle a few years ago. Do they hold up well, or better to leave as a whole piece?

Thanks!
 
#1) Yes. I would not sand the end caps unless they are in rough shape. In that case, you should take them down to bare metal. If the current paint is in good shape, just clean them up good and repaint.
#2 I have used regular SS kitchen grade steel wool on the ceramic lids and not hurt them. The #000 will be perfectly fine.
#3 Deal with it now. If it is very minor and only in crevices, you can just hit it with some rust encapsulator/reformer and paint over it. If it showing signs of bubbling paint and outright rust areas, then you need to grind/sand it clean and repaint or it will just get worse.
#4 Got nothing for you there as I am not familiar with tongue oil.
#5 Sounds like the Z brackets are bent. If not, they can be slightly bent to better fit the grill.
#6 Yes, it held up really well for three years and I have since replaced it with a Weber Grill Out Handle Light. I still have the wood handle that I made and it is in fine shape.
 
Mike, I would not worry too much about rust on the edges of the porcelain coated catch pan. It is common and as long as the pan is still serviceable, use it as is. Once it has holes or won't stay in the slide rails, it is time to replace it. You can always keep your eyes open for a donor grill in the mean time. You could remove as much rust as possible, then hit it with some rust reformer/encapsulator and then some gloss high heat black paint. But, that won't do a lot to extend it's life.
 
FYI 000 and steel wool seems to have removed the tung oil.

I have found a few suppliers to make SS z-bars. Only one quote at $100 ~$70USD for a set of 11. (5 top, 4 bottom). How much does Dave Santana charge? Would also be interesting to know what they charge for flavour bars - which I think are even more straightforward.
 
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