There's no turning back now...


 
Well, welcome to the forum. Great bunch of guys/gals here and very friendly tolerant group unlike all social media groups.
 
With products like Rust Enacpsulator or POR15 the big thing is you don't need to remove the rust itself. Only the loose flaky material. The chemical actually needs rust there to work on and adhere properly. Once treated the rust becomes very hard almost like a ceramic. You can then paint it as you like (though I am unsure of powder coats over it. I have used it on vehicles a lot and it's amazing stuff. I have no clue how it works but it does. But, don't be fooled by purchasing stuff at home center or hardware store called "rust converters". Been there and done that. They are cosmetic at best and basically do nothing. Rust Encapsulator is the absolute best I have found followed VERY closely by POR15.
 
LMichaels said:
With products like Rust Enacpsulator or POR15 the big thing is you don't need to remove the rust itself. Only the loose flaky material. The chemical actually needs rust there to work on and adhere properly. Once treated the rust becomes very hard almost like a ceramic. You can then paint it as you like (though I am unsure of powder coats over it. I have used it on vehicles a lot and it's amazing stuff. I have no clue how it works but it does. But, don't be fooled by purchasing stuff at home center or hardware store called "rust converters". Been there and done that. They are cosmetic at best and basically do nothing. Rust Encapsulator is the absolute best I have found followed VERY closely by POR15.
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Thanks, after thinking about it for a while I think that is the way to go from a practical standpoint. I had already bought a can of rustoleum rust reformer, so don't bother with that?
 
That is a good product, but not for what you need. I use the Rustoleum Rust Reformer more like a primer on bare metal where I already ground out all the rust or on areas where there is just a touch of surface rust. So, don't toss it. But get the Por15 or Eastwood for your situation.
 
Bruce said:
That is a good product, but not for what you need. I use the Rustoleum Rust Reformer more like a primer on bare metal where I already ground out all the rust or on areas where there is just a touch of surface rust. So, don't toss it. But get the Por15 or Eastwood for your situation.
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Should I prime the bare metal before I use any epoxy filler on the holes?
 
All right, I think I have a game plan and worked up the courage to do this. I will post pictures of my progress soon. Thanks
 
Looking forward to your update Steve.
Let me know your thoughts and experiences if you use the Por15 or Eastwood stuff. I have never used it. I simply trash a grill frame if it is too bad or fab in a new piece.
 
I hear you for sure. The thing is that except for that one bad spot, the frame really is pretty decent. I'm going to try. If nothing else, it's a learning experience !
 
t0sG1c6.jpg
 
I just finished the heavy scraping on my lid. A shout out to Bruce for the video on the best way to go about it. Also, it is still a lot of work. I wonder how many times bruce has done one of these.16285621249733615651474408348785.jpg
 
I've also made headway on my rusty frame. I used a rifle cleaning rod, angle grinder, wire wheel, sandpaper to do the prep work. I sprayed the entire frame inside and out with the rustoleum rust reformer. I'm going to let it dry for a couple days before I fill the holes.
 
The woodworking portion of my rebuild is also coming along. The new handle and slats are mahogany. Resized_Resized_20210729_215904.jpg
 

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