The Adapt-a-Damper - Open Source Project

WBegg

TVWBB Pro
Oh, i thought you were referring to the Fan. So, the RJ45 keystone slot has been modified on the newest threaded version of the AD, and now pops in with no effort and stays in. it is now easily inserted by putting the fixed end in first, then popping the tabbed side in until it snaps in place. Much easier than previous versions.
 

BrianDickens

New member
Brian: Once your jack was in did the tab end of the jack return to its fully unsprung position or is it still depressed even when it is locked in place? Actually, haha I'm not sure, that might be how they're normally supposed to be when installed in commercial keystones.
If you mean the ethernet jack, I haven't quite gotten that far. I need to put the wires in because it looks like it installed with the wires facing the case, not open to the top.
 

BrianDickens

New member
Oh, i thought you were referring to the Fan. So, the RJ45 keystone slot has been modified on the newest threaded version of the AD, and now pops in with no effort and stays in. it is now easily inserted by putting the fixed end in first, then popping the tabbed side in until it snaps in place. Much easier than previous versions.
I was referring to the fan on my original post.

The RJ45 keystone is in the Bottom Case Box, right? Not part of the threaded parts. Doesn't matter. I'll get it in one way or another.
 

WBegg

TVWBB Pro
I was referring to the fan on my original post.

The RJ45 keystone is in the Bottom Case Box, right? Not part of the threaded parts. Doesn't matter. I'll get it in one way or another.
Yeah, Keystone is in the box. I just realized I never updated that file in Thingiverse when I uploaded the threaded version. Still uses the same box as the V2, but I DO have an updated version of the Bottom_Case_Box that allows the easier installation of the RJ45. I'll try to get that replaced this afternoon on Thingiverse.
 

WBegg

TVWBB Pro
I've updated the BottomCaseBox_V2 file in thingiverse with the new version allowing easier insertion of the RJ45 Jack. I added a Chamfer on the inside edge.

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WBegg

TVWBB Pro
Look! It's the new Aluminum Adapt-a-Damper! well... sorta. I just need to remove all the stuff that isn't a damper.

[/IMG]
 

WBegg

TVWBB Pro
The base is done! A lot of machining, but the other parts should be a little more straight forward.

[/IMG]
 

Steve_M

TVWBB Guru
Very nice! I used to help my dad with machining things when I was young, never did any CNC though. Half the channels I subscribe to on youtube are machinists and makers. I've got lofty plans for a nice home machine shop one day. Maybe not quite Stefan Gotteswinter levels. but something!
 

MartinB

TVWBB Pro
Cool. I got a coworker with a commercial grade shop at home. He was producing firearm suppressors (legally) on the side a few yrs ago. Maybe i can challenge him to make me one....
 
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BrianDickens

New member
I'm getting ready for my first cook with my Heatermeter and adapt-a-damper. Testing it on the floor of my office, it looks like it's working. What should I be looking for in real world use? I see people talking about PID tuning, but truthfully that section of the wiki is a bit over my head. I can follow along with the manual tuning section though. Do I need to do that during a cook or can I do it before setting up on the smoker?
 

JKalchik

TVWBB Pro
I'm running with Bryan's bone stock PID constants with this fan & damper assembly on a gravity fed charcoal smoker. If all is running well, the servo position and fan speed should remain relatively constant until a significant even occurs (like start up, achieve target temp, a lid open event, etc.) when it'll ramp to a new value.

Set your HM to manual control for testing, and run the assembly from 0% to 100% and back down again.
 

BrianDickens

New member
I'm running with Bryan's bone stock PID constants with this fan & damper assembly on a gravity fed charcoal smoker. If all is running well, the servo position and fan speed should remain relatively constant until a significant even occurs (like start up, achieve target temp, a lid open event, etc.) when it'll ramp to a new value.

Set your HM to manual control for testing, and run the assembly from 0% to 100% and back down again.
Thanks.

I've done the manual control and it looks like it's fine. I adjusted two of the values to ensure that the servo is closed completely at 0% and opened fully at 100%.

I'll leave the values alone for now and see how the first cook goes. Expect more questions!
 

JKalchik

TVWBB Pro
Well, yeah. You do have to "tune" the HM for 0% and 100% servo operation, that's not part of the PID constants. The servo should be set up so that it's not buzzing at either end.
 

JKalchik

TVWBB Pro
I'd have to fire up my HM (or go digging for the screens online....)

If the servo is buzzing at one end or the other, regardless of the servo control settings, you may have to rotate the horn on the servo.
 

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