The Adapt-a-Damper - Open Source Project


 
Dave Smith said:
I use a roto damper on my WSM 221/2 with home built burner with no problems.
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Thanks Dave. Would you mind sharing your PIDs and Servo settings? How do you set your TOP valve?
My question was a bit more specific: Is it WORTH it? I'm afraid that i used to small tubes. I used 15mm tubes which may introduce too much anti pressure, and there is next to no natural air flow when the fan is off, so a damper may not add any value?!?
I sure can just try it out, as it's build pretty fast, but still want to hear your opinions.
 
here's what I use on my WSM 22.5
B=0; P=4; I=0.02; D=5
Fan pulse; min 0%; max 30%; max at startup
Servo 700 - 2110
top vent is always wide open
My burner uses 3/4" copper pipe
 
Just finished printing mine in natural Esun PETG. Going to do the mod on my HM 4.0 to hook it up.

cZfR3vH.jpg
 
Not really. The cap must be rated for a voltage above what we need. The servo operates at 5V max, so any 16V+ cap is fine. I used 100u 25V as it was the first i found in my parts box.
 
Perfect! That is the info I needed. One last question. Is the capacitor needed for all of the servos or just the less expensive ones?
 
Troy Gamm said:
Perfect! That is the info I needed. One last question. Is the capacitor needed for all of the servos or just the less expensive ones?
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As it won't do any harm to any servo i would just install it. You can think of the cap as a buffer it makes sure that the servo always gets the voltage needed, and as it's a very cheap item i'd just install it.
 
I'm new here again but If I'm reading this right y'all are talking a exhaust damper on a WSM or the like. I too have seen them before in many variations for many types of cookers. As I've done temp control for 39 years, Not trying to rain on anyone's parade but air intake is the key, not exhaust. Simple thermodynamics. Heat rises over the meat. ATC's are cheap these days.

Just my .02
 
Mike David P said:
I'm new here again but If I'm reading this right y'all are talking a exhaust damper on a WSM or the like. I too have seen them before in many variations for many types of cookers. As I've done temp control for 39 years, Not trying to rain on anyone's parade but air intake is the key, not exhaust. Simple thermodynamics. Heat rises over the meat. ATC's are cheap these days.

Just my .02
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Not sure where you got the idea the Adapt-a-Damper was being used at the exhaust? It goes on the intake of smokers. I too have seen exhaust setups in various designs, but I agree that air flow needs to be controlled at the input.
 
Been lurking on this forum for years now. Finally pulled the trigger on HM. Also gave me a reason to buy a 3D printer. So this damper is the first thing being printed and is chugging along as I type. In the meantime, I was just curious what the preferred method of attachment is these days to a WSM 22". SS Dog bowl or Air burner?
 
AdamFritzsche said:
Been lurking on this forum for years now. Finally pulled the trigger on HM. Also gave me a reason to buy a 3D printer. So this damper is the first thing being printed and is chugging along as I type. In the meantime, I was just curious what the preferred method of attachment is these days to a WSM 22". SS Dog bowl or Air burner?
Click to expand...

An air distribution pipe can probably.aid operation in some circumstances, but not without a few drawbacks as well.

My 18 works fine with dog bowl. I put small deflector over hole on inside to help deflect air down and around sides.

I would say....start simple
 
MartinB said:
An air distribution pipe can probably.aid operation in some circumstances, but not without a few drawbacks as well.

My 18 works fine with dog bowl. I put small deflector over hole on inside to help deflect air down and around sides.

I would say....start simple
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Good point. I can always move to an air burner if a dog bowl doesn't cut it.
 
AdamFritzsche said:
Good point. I can always move to an air burner if a dog bowl doesn't cut it.
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You likely will want a deflector on the inside.
You can purchase the one from BBQ guru
Or you can make your own

Mines cut from a muffin pan

You don't want too much air to go upward and bypass the coals it will cool the smoker.

A little this usually happens. My temple often drop by half a degree before it begins rising for this reason. The longer coals are shut down the more it will happen, they do not restart burning hot instantly. So if you reduce your temperature by 25 degrees, and it takes half an hour for it to cool off without the fan, the temperature is going to plummet when the fan restarts. An air distribution pipe would probably greatly help this situation.

Or you could ramp your temperature down slower. Etc
 
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When I had my WSM 18", I used a DigiQ adapter. It has the deflector built in. I seldom had issues with burnouts, but as MartinB stated, it would occasionally indicate a drop in temp as a bit of the air bypassed the coals.
 
AdamFritzsche said:
Been lurking on this forum for years now. Finally pulled the trigger on HM. Also gave me a reason to buy a 3D printer. So this damper is the first thing being printed and is chugging along as I type. In the meantime, I was just curious what the preferred method of attachment is these days to a WSM 22". SS Dog bowl or Air burner?
Click to expand...

I use a burner on my WSM 22.5
 
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