smokin' in your kettle


 
It sure makes sense to me to try to eliminate drafts coming up around what you're cooking.

I know where to find the sheet metal, but where do you guys find fire bricks? I've yet to see them at Lowes or Home Depot. Where do I look?
 
Ok... brought it home today and it fits like a glove!
DSCN2763.jpg
DSCN2762.jpg
DSCN2764.jpg

Sidewall hugs the inside curved kettle wall...
DSCN2759.jpg

11 gauge thickness (3mm), 304 German Stainless Steel.
This beaut will last a lifetime. I'm gonna KICKRIB this weekend!!!
 
Awesome job Jim. That looks WAY to good to cook on. You had better foil it to catch the drippings that miss the pan
icon_wink.gif
I drool looking at your other cooks, I can't wait to see whats coming.

What kinda finish did you put on that thing? Directional Satin #4 sans the wax?

When I shut the vents down using mine, I have noticed that the charcoal keeps burning around 100°. Without the plate it kills the fire right away. I am interested to hear of your results.

Brad
 
Wow jim that looks amazing.

Did u use Laser/water to cut it?
Forget it wasent reading all to close.

"My plan is to have one made from 11GA and laser cut."

That is something i just have to get.

Do u still have the cnc program for it?

Bless//Me
 
Yeah, these are not cheap @ 27 bucks for 500DM2... don't think mass production is in the stars.
It was laser cut on this Trumatic...
...and the finish is compliments of a Timesaver3100 much like this one.
I'll ask our operator if the programme is still available.
 
Very nicely designed metalwork! Perhaps too well. My thinking is this may prevent hot air from circulating under the cooking grate depending on how much meat you have on top.
 
I actuality found this method to work...

Foil tape the 2 holes not in use, use lump which produces less ashes... and I was able to hold 250, for 6hrs straight with no adjustment, other than when I had to foil my meat (I had to then bring it down)
 
Yeah, these are not cheap @ 27 bucks for 500DM2... don't think mass production is in the stars.

Jim: I would gladly pay to have one. Any chance you would have a paper or poster board template of this, it certainly is a fit I cannot achieve by trying to make one from scratch.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Jim Lampe:
Yeah, these are not cheap @ 27 bucks for 500DM2... don't think mass production is in the stars.
It was laser cut on this Trumatic...
...and the finish is compliments of a Timesaver3100 much like this one.
I'll ask our operator if the programme is still available. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I am still trying to learn the ropes for this site, I guess I didn't hit the right reply mode.

This fit of yours is superb and I would certainly like to pursue securing one similar. I can get one made in my area but I cannot duplicate that template. Any chance I can get one?
 
The dimensional information that I used can be found here.

I used this last night to sear some thick sirloin steaks, it worked very well. When I make another I will not use anything lighter than 14 Ga material. I noticed a very minor bow after the high heat I used on the steaks - 11 ga would be a better thickness - (nice call Jim)

Brad
 
Brad, my dimensions are a little different from yours:
your 17 3/4" mine 18"
your 4 3/4" mine 4 5/8"
your 14 1/4" mine 13 3/8"
your 18 1/4" mine 19 1/4"
but it works
icon_smile.gif

gonna try it tomorrow or Sunday.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content"> I will not use anything lighter than 14 Ga material. I noticed a very minor bow after the high heat I used on the steaks - 11 ga would be a better thickness - (nice call Jim)

Brad </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Brad & Jim:

It seems as though you both have some background in metallurgy/sheet metal work, based on your apparent respective grasps of the subject. I, on the other hand, struggle in order to get the aluminum foil to tear properly when pulling same from the foil's cardboard box container....

That said, and based on my reputation for being tighter than a gnat's fanny stretched across a fence post, I have used, with general success, aluminum foil as the "heat baffle" - for want of a better term - but I'm looking for something a bit more permanent.

Given the fact that Lowe's sells sheet metal - but I'm not sure what thickness it is - and with respect to Brad's observation that 14 gauge metal "bows" under high heat, I ask the following:

(1) Does the metal happen to return to its original form upon cooling, and (2)would sheet metal, as that that may be purchased at a box store, be an acceptable alternative to stainless steel?

PS - Brad, great work on the dimensional diagram on your attachment!

Regards,

Rooster
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Jim Lampe:
Brad, my dimensions are a little different from yours:
your 17 3/4" mine 18"
your 4 3/4" mine 4 5/8"
your 14 1/4" mine 13 3/8"
your 18 1/4" mine 19 1/4"
but it works
icon_smile.gif

gonna try it tomorrow or Sunday. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks Brad and Jim for the schematic and dimensions. I should be able to find someone to mfg this for me.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Albert Adato:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Tom Larkin:

Thanks Brad and Jim for the schematic and dimensions. I should be able to find someone to mfg this for me. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Tom, if you are going to have someone mfg this for you, remember and point out that the part that bends up is tapered to hug the side of the kettle and is not a straight line as depicted in the drawing. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks Al, I missed that in the drawing, I just saw the snug fit on Jim's. It does appear that the unit Brad has is made with a straight line, base on the pic with the drawing (Does this suggest the leak is not sufficient for worry? Now I will have to figure out how to capture the exact taper for them to duplicate.
 
just as the Weber smoky mountain cooker is not air tight...

if you have a cold beer in your refridge... open it and enjoy it as you read the next line.

leakage is a non-factor.

now.... where did i put that bottle of rum???
 
Sorry to gang up on so many of you at one time, but here it goes;

Jim; thanks for posting your dims, looks like your charcoal area is a little larger. I am extremely interested to hear what kind of temps and times you can attain with your design. I can get the kettle to hover in good about 260 for 7.5 hours with no touching.

RL; (everyone else don't read this) Sometimes I have trouble getting foil from the box too, especially when someone pushes those tabs in cause they think they are showing me something cool and new... I hate them, it makes the roll, well, not roll so well in the box.

The metal will naturally come and go, because one side of the plate is warmer than the other side. It will gradually deform more and more, and will be worse with thicker material because it will not flex back so easily. I still think 11Ga (0.1196) is better than 14Ga (0.0747"). In my situation, I had the side fully loaded with lit coals, the lid off, and vents wide open below. I probably had 700°+ on one side of the plate, and maybe 100° on the other side. This caused very minor warping, if it wasn't a new shiny toy, I wouldn't be concerned at all. Actually, another bend at the top of the vertical piece would be a better alternative, but not a cure.

I see no reason why plain carbon steel can't be used. Stainless was available to me, so I used it. Just keep the carbon seasoned and dry, and it should be ok.

Albert; Send that 26 3/4 to me and I get you all set
icon_wink.gif


Albert & Tom; The tapers on my insert are straight, I don't think that little bit of airflow will change the results at all. The point is to keep the cool air from mixing with the warm air causing drafts, the insert funnels (for a lack of better words) the cool air through the hot coals to MINIMIZE the drafts. No big deal to me; but yes, Jim's looks better than mine. Just remember, bricks aren't usually round either
icon_wink.gif


Jim;
"Leakage is a non-factor"
If that rum was leaking from your lip... does it then become a factor?

This has really become a fun project for me, thanks for posting the idea Jim.
 
Brad, when i say "Leakage is a non-factor", i mean, don't sweat the small stuff.
I cook to eet. When I start to worry about minor details, my cooks then become work. And I hate to work.
icon_biggrin.gif

butt i love to eet!
Albert, yes, i believe DPAluminum will NOT stand the heat. I would hesitate using DPA.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

 

Back
Top