Silver C restoration


 
I finally did some actual renovation work on my silver this weekend. Cleaned up all the valves inside and out and resprayed the manifold, cleaned the burners and built this little frame for the side burner so it can sit on the side bench when needed. Also did some rotisserie pork on my newly acquired 96 gas Go Anywhere.IMG_0404.jpegIMG_0408.jpegIMG_0407.jpegIMG_0406.jpeg
 
thanks Steve. I followed yours and the others advice on previous threads and didn’t try removing the valves from the manifold. As much as I wanted to I knew it would’ve probably been more trouble than it was worth!
Actually removing the valves is easy. It's disassembling them where people get into trouble. You can't just stick a screwdriver on there and expect the screws to just "obey". You have to "persuade" them. Good solid screwdriver, a good tiny machinist (ball peen) hammer, PBlaster and patience
 
Actually removing the valves is easy. It's disassembling them where people get into trouble. You can't just stick a screwdriver on there and expect the screws to just "obey". You have to "persuade" them. Good solid screwdriver, a good tiny machinist (ball peen) hammer, PBlaster and patience
Great advice from the master who has been there and done that! I know I have botched a couple by not using these steps with the patience Larry states😟.
 
Actually removing the valves is easy. It's disassembling them where people get into trouble. You can't just stick a screwdriver on there and expect the screws to just "obey". You have to "persuade" them. Good solid screwdriver, a good tiny machinist (ball peen) hammer, PBlaster and patience
oh, haha. I only had one out of the 6 valve screws that didn’t immediately budge so I didn’t force it, i just gave it a few weeks with some penetrating oil then it moved first pop when I came back to it. I looked at the connection between the valves and the manifold, especially my one that’s on a little lean and thought maybe there was a chance I would damage the thread or break something so I just played it safe. Maybe next time I will give it a try!
 
I think Weber designers would be proud of that manifold. Hard to imagine that weber ever made one prettier than that out of the factory.

So, if we are going to continue with that kind of attention to detail, are we going to see a gold plated grill frame next?
Yeah, gold frame, grates knobs and badge?
 
Hey guys just a question re my valves… my control panel has low displayed at 5oclock, yet my valves (spiral slot) spin all the way around to 3 o’clock. Is this normal?
 
oh, haha. I only had one out of the 6 valve screws that didn’t immediately budge so I didn’t force it, i just gave it a few weeks with some penetrating oil then it moved first pop when I came back to it. I looked at the connection between the valves and the manifold, especially my one that’s on a little lean and thought maybe there was a chance I would damage the thread or break something so I just played it safe. Maybe next time I will give it a try!
It's a lot easier to just tape the valves up and then repaint the rest of it. I just can't think of a good reason to risk damaging those valves by removing them.
 
Hey guys just a question re my valves… my control panel has low displayed at 5oclock, yet my valves (spiral slot) spin all the way around to 3 o’clock. Is this normal?
I don't think so, it should turn and positively lock at all positions but not go any further than low.
 
Now, there were Genesis Silver grills that had a different sweep than yours. The manifold did turn to three o'clock and the control panel was marked accordingly. Screenshot_20230709-130716.png
 
That’s what I thought, but my control panel is the older version finishing at 5oclock... interestin huh
It should be easy enough to figure out based on where the valve locks in place. Excluding the possibility that you did something wrong, you may have a mismatched control panel and manifold.
 
Na it was like that when I got it. The valves lock in at high (and off) then it’s continuous all the way round to low
It should be easy enough to figure out based on where the valve locks in place. Excluding the possibility that you did something wrong, you may have a mismatched control panel and manifold.
 
Na or was like that when I got it. The valves lock in at high then it’s continuous all the way round to low
But then continues on to three o'clock and locks again? It sounds like someone ordered a replacement manifold and got the wrong one for the grill.
 
But then continues on to three o'clock and locks again? It sounds like someone ordered a replacement manifold and got the wrong one for the grill.

Yeah! Well it doesn’t lock at low but just stops. It doesn’t really worry me but I was just curious as I thought it seemed odd. I may have to upgrade control panels!
 
Yeah! Well it doesn’t lock at low but just stops. It doesn’t really worry me but I was just curious as I thought it seemed odd. I may have to upgrade control panels!
As long as the grill is working well I wouldn't let it bother me either. I would probably just try and find a newer control panel that matches up better also. If not, no big deal.
 
As long as the grill is working well I wouldn't let it bother me either. I would probably just try and find a newer control panel that matches up better also. If not, no big deal.
Exactly , thanks Steve. I’ve been to the states 3 times but all prior to me owning any Weber grills. Maybe next time I’ll plan a holiday around grill part acquisition.
 
Exactly , thanks Steve. I’ve been to the states 3 times but all prior to me owning any Weber grills. Maybe next time I’ll plan a holiday around grill part acquisition.
You may also want to contact Weber New Zealand and/or Australia to ask about that control panel. There are two different ones that will work on your grill, part #60103 and #60337. You may actually have better luck getting one where you are than here.
 

 

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